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Thread: All-in-one Atom330/ION project

  1. #101
    Constant Bitrate tibimakai's Avatar
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    great build. I'm building something similar and I'm about to order the amp9 and I would like to know your opinion about it. would you recomend it? how hot it gets with active heatsink?

  2. #102
    Variable Bitrate
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    I haven't tested the amp in the car, but it works great on bench tests. The active heatsink I have seems plenty enough for it. I ran it on pretty high levels for about an hour, and the heatsink got to about 55C at room temperature of about 23C. I tried running it without a fan, but it wasn't sufficient. Note that it has a thermal shutoff, and even without a fan, it never reached it, but I decided to add a fan, since the environment in the car gets a lot hotter than 23C. I gave myself a 70C threshold - if it reaches that temperature, I suggest you get a better heatsink.
    To attach the heatsink, I used Arctic Silver Epoxy. Works great, but it's VERY permanent. I doubt anything will happen to the heatsink though, and I can change the fan on it if anything.
    You'll need a 4x2 header connector, similar to usb header connectors. I bought mine here: http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/HDCONND8pr.shtml . You'll also need pins for it:http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/HDPINFpr.shtml
    The header is for the input. The output is a screw terminal block, so you don't need anything special for that.

    Hope that helps!

  3. #103
    Constant Bitrate tibimakai's Avatar
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    thank you for all the good info.
    the anti thump feature works well? it's still not clear to me how to connect that feature(I have the m2 power supply), but I gues that I will figure it out when I get the amp.

  4. #104
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    You connect the anti-thump from the power supply to the remote input on the amplifier. The anti-thump does the same thing that a head unit does - tell the amplifier to turn on.

  5. #105
    Variable Bitrate
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    I didn't get to use it unfortunately. I just shorted the Mute pin (to unmute) and OnOff pin (to have it permanently on) so it turns on whenever there's power applied to it. There are some pops, but they aren't that dramatic. By the way, you'll need some jumpers - you can get a set of 10 for 1.50 from radioshack

  6. #106
    Variable Bitrate
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    I guess the moral of this story is to not buy from dealextreme. I placed an order feb 22nd - still haven't received the package. Hopefully it will be here soon. I'm switching jobs and will have most of the next week off - perfect time to finish this thing and try to start it when it's powered from the car.

  7. #107
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    I second that,

    I would contact deal extreme, I ordered a bunch of stuff off there some arrived, the rest was taking forever, then i contacted them and they were out of stock, the thing that annoyed me most is the fact they are still advertising the products as available in 2-3 days.

  8. #108
    Variable Bitrate
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    The whole thing is already shipped, but it's taking forever. I guess that's what you get for free shipping from China

  9. #109
    Variable Bitrate
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    I finally got some of the parts I was waiting for. Turns out I bought the wrong hdmi angle adapters - stupid me, since Monoprice carries them (they are called HDMI port savers). I needed the 90 degree one to connect to my computer and a 270 degree one to connect to the screen.

    First things first - mp3car sold me a 629GL monitor with HDMI but it turned out to be 669GL. I emailed them - they offered to RMA (so no hard feelings) but I decided to press on. I had to cut out a small chunk of the bottom of the case, because the monitor PCB is really tall.

    The front looks pretty stock. I had to loosen the mounting screws a bit because the touchscreen sensor gets jammed to the frame. Once the screws were a bit loosened, everything went OK and the touchscreen worked:


    The bottom of the case is actually glued as well as screwed on. I cut the opening in it before I removed the bottom completely - hence the awkward ends sticking out. I realized I had to remove the bottom because it's impossible to reattach the touch screen ribbon wire if the PCB can't be lowered past the bottom level. If I knew that, I would have detached the bottom and would have done a cleaner cut across the whole thing:


    The screen actually works (including the IR):


    One thing that I would have loved to use is a much higher gauge HDMI cable - the stock one is way too long and way too thick. There's no need for 20AWG HDMI if you need to go 3 inches from the monitor to the computer. 28AWG or even higher would have done. Unfortunately, lilliput put together HDMI and USB into one jack, so buying a short HDMI cable is simply not an option. MP3Car should look into making custom HDMI cables with usb, but much shorter, thinner and with shorter plugs. For now, I ordered more HDMI angle adapters from monoprice: I'll have to daisy chain 2 of them from the monitor so I can lay the cable and the plug flat against the PCB. The hdmi plug on the computer side will also use an HDMI angle adapter and will plug in from the top. Hopefully, I'll be able to coil the wire inside the case but I'm really worried about the space:

  10. #110
    Constant Bitrate tibimakai's Avatar
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    you should make your own cable. I have faced the same issue and I made my own VGA cable. I have a slight interference, but I'm trying to fix it. I have purchased from the shack some ferrite chokes. hopefully they will help, if not I will try some anti interference tape and I will wrap with it the existing wire and solder to it a wire and hook it up to a ground.
    I don't understand, why didn't you make your own case?
    you have the new h bracket for the lcd's pcb? looks very straight. mine is the plastic and it bends upward(I hate it). I had to cut down on the standoffs to make more room in there.
    Last edited by tibimakai; 04-11-2011 at 10:59 AM.

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