Good work, I love seeing all-in-one builds. Quick question on the sound cards. Why 2 of them? Most sound cards have a line-in and mic which should have provided the two inputs you needed.
It's a stock H Bracket with the 669GL aluminum frame to support that PCB. It's ok at best - you bend the aluminum standoffs to secure the PCB instead of having screw mounts. I'm not sure why they went that way at all.
The reason I didn't make my own cable is because I want to use HDMI. I've soldered my own DVI-A cable (see earlier in this thread) but HDMI is so damn small, with so many contacts. I'd give it a shot, but I'm almost certain I'll fail. Also, I couldn't get 800x480 work well with my NVIDIA Ion chipset, so even though it's possible, I'd rather not go that way.
If you made your own VGA cable, where did you get a Lilliput SKS solder jack? Or did you take the one that came with it and just cut the cable and exposed the wires? I read somewhere that once you make a custom cable, you can wrap it up into a small sheet of tinfoil (make sure to have it not touch any metal contacts, of course) and secure it to the wires with electrical tape. This metal shroud should create some shielding.
EDIT: I'm looking online and it looks like you can buy a blank HDMI jack for soldering. If the cable doesn't fit, I might have to go that way.
Last edited by nivanov; 04-03-2011 at 12:35 AM.
from the LCD to the 9 pin connector I have left the cable untouched. I got the other 9 pin connector(no securing nut, but it's tight enough-I have laid it down between the LCD and the memory and next to the case and PCI slot), a bare metal usb connector(used heat shrink to protect it)and a 90 degree(solder to PCB type) VGA connector all solder type and made that part of the cable. I have used a shielded cable, but maybe it's to thin and it's not shielded well enough. I'm wondering if the open VGA connector should be protected from interference as well? Should I cover it with some shielding also? my case it's aluminum. I have the Directed box under the mobo, there is a shelf between them, also aluminum and at the LCD side(front) of the PC I have the M2 and the hdd on top of each other.
the internal usb header it's used by the touchscreen's USB and by the front mini USB port, so those I have them inside the PC, they are coiled up and used zip tight to keep them that way.
the amp 9 which I will be putting together pretty soon, will be on top of the case hanging down toward the mobo and between the GPU and the I/O area(there is an empty area). this is the last piece and then hardware wise I'm done.
had some heat issues, and I had to install a fan on one side of the case and an open port on the other to circulate the air inside the upper part of the PC(second floor). then the bottom was very warm, because I have the HDD mounted directly to the case(aluminum) for better heat exchange, but I fill like inside the dash it will be even hotter, so now I'm installing a very small fan(25mmx25mm in there). hopefully will be enough.
I have also put some stick on heat sinks on the HDD.
if you punch in in Google short Lilliput cable, my post comes up first, it may help you:
Last edited by tibimakai; 04-03-2011 at 10:21 AM.
---------- Post added at 12:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 PM ----------
you are not using the front audio header?
Last edited by tibimakai; 04-03-2011 at 06:14 PM.
So I ordered a 1.5FT 30AWG HDMI cable (thinnest and shortest I could find). They sent me 24AWG 15FT cable. Last 2 months I must have spent 2 days working and the rest waiting for different parts to come in!
I finally got the right cable! I ordered a "High Speed HDMI Cable M/M, 1.5 FT / 0.5 M, Black" on Amazon. I carefully dremel-cut the hood down the middle, shoved a thin screwdriver under the connector and detached the hood. I tried not to cut in too much with dremel so as not to cut into the wires. Thanks to tibimakai and FPeter, I knew what I was looking for - Pins 8 and 17. To my surprise, those pins were NOT connected on either ends:
At first, that was kind of upsetting, but then I realized I don't have to solder the usb connector to the computer-side HDMI connector, I can just solder it to monitor-side connector. I verified that the pins had a connection with the solder terminals and had little trouble soldering the USB plug to it. Of course, I did mess up the data polarity on the first try - no biggie, Windows just said "Unknown Device". I reversed the wires (green and red in the picture) and all went well. I ziptied the USB wires to the main cable to provide strain relief to the solder joints.
This weekend I'm going to start putting the whole thing together! I might have to go and get a better power supply for testing - I can get a refurbished computer power supply in Microcenter for cheap, short some pins on the 20pin plug and get myself a nice stable 12V line.
you could use some heat shrink tube over that usb connector, it would look more professional. I've got an almost new 400W Dynex power supply from the bay for $16 shipped. there is one now for $19.
I had two issues I have to fix:
1. The black box enclosure isn't made to work with Lilliput 669GL version and the IR receiver square on the H bracket is squeezing the monitor so hard it causes the touchscreen to think someone is pressing on the right edge of the screen constantly. Right now, I can make it work by loosening (almost unscrewing completely) the retention screws of the h bracket and pressing hard on the monitor panel, but I'm planning on cutting off the receiver square off the H bracket and offsetting it so it doesn't get in the way of the monitor box, but still get the IR signal through the hole in the case. Shouldn't be too hard.
2. My amp turns on whenever the power is supplied. I shorted the On/Off pin to a permanent ON and a Mute pin to a permanent UnMUTE. When the computer is booting up, the soundcard is making a lot of noise, and when it gets initialized in windows, it generates a loud pop. That pop actually makes the power supply shut off (the power supply is pretty crappy, though), though the 10AMP fuses don't blow, so I'm still not worried about the total power draw. Still, having the amp always on makes it generate a huge spike in the load, apparently. I'll buy a USB->Serial breakout board and use that to turn the amp on and off after windows boots up and initializes all devices. Hopefully, without that awful pop, there would be no spike in the load. I'll test it by temporary wiring up the on/off wire to a switch