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Thread: All-in-one Atom330/ION project

  1. #31
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    while i haven't seen the schematic, it should be fine to connect to the acc circuit-- if the acc circuit doesn't have enough power, use a relay to activate it.

    the turn-on of the amp should (in theory) be before the power button gets pressed by the dc-dc

  2. #32
    Variable Bitrate
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    Long weekend - lots of work done:

    Mounted the computer block and the dc-dc adapter:




    Soldered and wired up the harness. Notice the spade connector y-splitters - the radio will be mounted externally and needs its own ground/batt/acc:


    I'm mildly worried about having so many splitters on ground/batt/acc - there is a 2 way splitter outside of the box (for radio and box) and 3 way splitter inside the box (amp/computer/monitor). However, none of the components need that much power so I'm not too worried about overloading the wires.

    I'm still waiting for the amp to arrive - it will (hopefully) go between to the left of the computer, below the dc-dc. That way, it's right next to the speaker connector

    EDIT: I think I might have resolder the connectors on the dc-dc to face up instead of to the sides - it's pretty long and i dont think there's enough space for the wires. There might be enough on the IN end, since the connectors can go outside the box, but on the OUT end, the monitor PCB might get in the way. I've looked at the connectors and it looks like a pretty easy job

  3. #33
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    Modified DCDC-USB to have vertical power inputs/outputs:


    Now I gotta make the power cable a lot shorter and this part is done. Next up - AMP9!

  4. #34
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    I'm looking at the amplifier and I have some concerns about "thump":
    Amp's spec:
    J2 Connector: Mode change: Awake, Mute, AM
    Pin 1 - 2 VPP + 5Vreg CLOSED to Awake (NORMAL), Open to Sleep

    This is what I need to prevent thump: I gotta "close" the pins to turn on the amp, after the power is supplied. As far as I understand, if the power is supplied when those pins are shorted, you get a nice loud crack through the speakers, right?

    DCDC-USB manual says:
    Vaux: Provides unregulated switched input, to be used in automotive modes
    to power various peripherals. Also, in automotive mode, Vaux can be used as
    ‘thump’. Vaux should be closer to V(In) in this case.

    So Vaux is closer to V(in), around 12V, and amp's pins need VPP + 5Vreg. What is VPP (volts point-to-point, peak-to-peak?). Also 12V vs 5Vreg?? That's unexpected. Or am I misreading it?

  5. #35
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    What mobo are u using? Mini-ITX fits very tightly into the double-din opening and does not fit at all into black box enclosure. Are you making your own double din case? I thought of going that way, but decided it would be too difficult. Good luck

    I couldn't use m2 or m3 because my computer needs 19V so I needed a dc-dc converter. In your case, I'd go with M3 - it plugs directly into ATX so that's one less cable to worry about.

  6. #36

  7. #37
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    I have two more units that I will be selling after my project is done. I need at least one as a backup in case I burn out my current one

  8. #38

  9. #39
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    I'm thinking of putting it up on ebay. Probably set the minimum at $350

  10. #40
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    Did a lot of work:

    MoCoSo's monitor cables are big, long and bulky. I ordered a new connector (it's a Mini Din 8pin, with a middle pin offset) and made a new cable myself - only needed the power harness. It'd be great if MoCoSo would include a blank plug or at least sell them on their website.
    Left - mine, Right - MoCoSo's


    Finally bought a switch to simulate IGN signal:


    Tested the amp. Works ok, although there's some background noise coming from the speakers. It's not that audible though, and probably will not be audible at all in the car. The power and output are screw-on clamps, but the inputs are a 4x2 pins. That's a pain, since those connectors aren't all that standardized. I used 2 USB connectors, but I wish I could use bigger wires to shield the signal a bit more. I might have to revisit this solution:


    Saving best for last, I cut a sheet of plexiglass and mounted it on top of the standoffs to create a shelf above the computer block (leaving enough room for veltilation). Next, I purchased two GWC USB 5.1 Audio adapters (link), took them out of their cases, mounted them on mobo standoffs (love those things!) and mounted that on the plexiglass shelf. I think there is enough of a gap between those two, but I put a thin plastic sheet between them, just in case. I realized that the output of the built in sound card is somewhat noisy, and the input is Mic, which is mono. These sound cards have Front and Rear outputs (perfect for my 4ch amp), and a stereo line ins. I need two stereo line-ins - one for radio and one for an AUX line in - hence 2 sound cards:

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