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Thread: All-in-one Atom330/ION project

  1. #41
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    Just came back from vacation! Back to cold snowy Boston.

    Mounted the amplifier. Decided to mount it at a slight angle to give more room to the heatsink on the chip:





    I also ordered several 4x2 pin female header connectors to connect the speakers. I went a bit overboard and used shielded 22 gauge cable. It works great but the cables are way too bulky. Tomorrow, I'll try regular speaker cables.

  2. #42
    Self proclaimed spoon feeder TruckinMP3's Avatar
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    Nice work!
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  3. #43
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    i thought that amp chip required a external heatsink?

    i'm also curious on your impressions on the sound quality of that amp once you get it all setup..

  4. #44
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    I bought the amp preassembled and had the impression that it did not require any other parts. It has a copper plate on the back, but it's smooth and doesnt have heatsink fins on it. That part gets pretty damn hot - too hot to touch. I did look up the specs and it says that working temperature range is 130+ C. Still concerning though.

    As far as sound quality goes, I'd say it's pretty good. I don't have a good speaker set to hook it up to, but after using shielded cables, I had very little hiss coming from the speakers when the amp was on (you can only hear it if you put your ear right next to it). I gotta say I'm not too big on sound quality as long as it's decent. For my taste, I think it's more than enough. Still, it's hooked up to a clean 12V source right now. I'll let you know once I power it from the ACC line. I also wonder how the quality will hold up when I switch from shielded cables to non-shielded ones.

  5. #45
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    Trying to figure out the Mini Din pinout of the Mini Touch monitor:



    I can't seem to figure out the purpose of the Orange connection. It used to be Monitor ID line, but Wikipedia advises not to use it.

    Now I need to convert this to a DVI-A pinout and I'm in business

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by nivanov View Post
    That part gets pretty damn hot - too hot to touch. I did look up the specs and it says that working temperature range is 130+ C. Still concerning though..
    That right there is telling you that you need to put a heatsink on that part(the flat square or retangular part thats generating all the heat), cause with the added heat that will be generated during summer months in the car...you may run into problems...may even fry the part, then you'd have to take it back out to fix(and who wants to keep doing that?).

    The fact that the heatsink doesn't come already attached is why I suspect it needs an external heatsink...meaning: you need to add on one!!! You just glue one to it like you would a processor.
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  7. #47
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    ^^ yup.

    i started looking at digikey, but don't know the max area you can use.

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...752&k=heatsink

    the bigger, the better. and what ever option you choose, make sure to use thermal paste/adhesive to bond it to the chip, so that the heat can get effectively transferred off the amp chip-set.

    a good design should only get hot to the touch after at least an hour of very hard use..

  8. #48
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    Right. Arctic (of arctic silver 5 fame) makes thermal paste epoxy which I think is perfect for this kind of thing. I need a small heatsink that bends at a 90 degree angle though, so I might have to make one myself - a sheet of copper or aluminum would do.

  9. #49
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    hmm, i don't know if a sheet of any material is enough.

    i was thinking outside the box-- literally.. cut out the area just around the chipset, and that would allow better airflow to the heatsink, and would also allow a larger, more solid heatsink..

    the thicker the heatsink, the more area the heat has to move into to keep the heat out of the chipset-- just like a pc processor, just without a program to see how it's doing..

  10. #50
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    yeah I'm gonna look around for 90-degree heatsinks with heatpipes. I'll have 2 40mm fans sucking the air out right above it so I think that should help.

    In other news, my experiment of soldering a custom cable has failed so far. I've connected R G B HSync VSync Ground to the DVI connector but the monitor isn't coming on. Unfortunately, I destroyed my VGA-DVI-a cable I got from monoprice so I can't verify VGA-DVI pinout, but I googled around and I thought it's pretty easy. The only pin I'm not sure about is the Orange pin (5 posts above) - maybe that has to be connected? If you guys have a solid idea about DVI-a pinout, please let me know - I could use some help.

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