Well, at least one problem is solved!
radio was about 3 years ago) but I'm pretty sure I need to leave some room for the screws to go into the black box enclosure.
Well, at least one problem is solved!
the screws should be fine, they shouldn't need to extend into the case any more then a 1/8"-1/4"-- less then the lengths of the standoffs for your power supply.. and if their too long, you can always cut them down.
So I'm kind of limited on space for the heatsink, so I was thinking of getting a thick aluminum sheet, thermal epoxy'ing it to the chip and bending it around the pcb in a square bracket shape. I could also mount a fan on top of the flat part of the bracket. I think it should be sufficient, but, just in case, I bought an infrared thermometer. How hot/cold should I expect the chip to be? Mind you, the spec says it can run at 130C. I think if I can get it down to 70C under load, I should be good.
By the way, I really appreciate everyone's help with this project! I can sort of see the light at the end of the tunnel!
i would say under 0/low load(0% to 30%), it should be warm to the touch-- something like 40 deg. C(100 deg F is that warm to the touch? i kind of think that is starting to burn...)
but 70c should be ok as well, just a little warmer then i would prefer in a tiny dash box...
i would probably first try to heatsink it without fans-- that way, if you can keep it around 70C with a moderate load, you will know that the fans will be sure to keep it well below that..
it would also be worthwhile to cut slots in the sheet to increase the surface area of it to allow for more heat transfer, and airflow.. and the other thing i have read is to rough-up the surface with some low-grit sand paper because that can also help add surface area. i'm not sure how much a rough surface really helps, but every little bit has got to count for something...
Thanks for the tips, soundman. I think I'm gonna go with aluminum - I can probably buy a small sheet of it in a hardware store nearby. I was going to go with copper, but that's a bit harder to find. I was also thinking of attaching a small chipset heatsink (from a northbridge, for instance) onto the aluminum sheet if just the sheet itself does not provide adequate cooling.
The Pandora Plugin is not open source...and even if it was, GPL plugins cannot be used with a closed source plugin host (like centrafuse) - thats a violation of the license.
In the future I would also ask that when something is clearly licensed "License: For openMobile use only" that you respect that.
Please keep this thread clean of plugin talk, this is a member's worklog. Posts have been clipped and placed here: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/open...lugin-gpl.html
The best resurrected frontend I've ever used, period.
I finally got an IR thermometer so I can measure the chip and heatsink temperature of the amplifier:
1. I used a sheet of aluminum and folded it several times and attached it to the heatsink. It cooled it somewhat but not enough
2. I've attached a northbridge heatsink. Performance was better but it still ran pretty hot. I think, in practice, the heatsink itself would do just fine, but I'd like it a bit cooler for those extra hot days in the summer
3. I've measured the height of the amp+heatsink+fan. It JUST fits, which I'm ok with as long as it actually does fit once i mount it. I'm planning on soldering the fan wires to the back on the power terminals on the amplifier. Fans should be ok with some voltage fluctuation, so I'm not too worried here
Note: don't try to measure temperatures off shiny surfaces using an IR thermometer. When the heatsink was pretty hot to touch, the thermometer was reading 31C - well below body temperature, even. I finally figured out what I did wrong and smeared some thermal paste on it so I can get a good reading. 65C and climbing - time to go with active cooling!