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Thread: All-in-one Atom330/ION project

  1. #61
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    49
    Nice build so far, where did you get the QutePC-3020, or is the board available without the case?
    I couldn't seem to find a reseller in the US for it.

  2. #62
    Variable Bitrate
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    I bought it off this australian dude on ebay. I have 2 more units that I'll be selling when this project is over. I want to hang on to at least 1, in case I'll burn out my current one

    EDIT: Boards are not available separately, as far as I know.

  3. #63
    Variable Bitrate
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    I've been reading about Hybrid Sleep - seems like a great idea. I was wondering if scenario is viable:

    Shutdown sequence will be "5-NEVER", meaning the shutdown signal will be sent after 5 seconds of IGN-OFF and the power will be never completely cut off. The power supply monitors the battery state and will cut off the power if the voltage drops below 11.2V.
    The only question I have is - is 11.2V enough to crank the engine, or is the battery officially "dead", but not damaged by deep discharge?

  4. #64
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    Amplifier cooling is finally complete! Since I can't fit a big heatsink and I'd rather err on the side of caution, I decided to go with active cooling. The heatsink is glued in place with Arctic Silver epoxy. Since power is 12V and fans are ok with voltage fluctuation, I just soldered it to power terminals of the amplifier:




    Booyah!

  5. #65
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    I had to rearrange the mounting layout to accomodate for the new amp cooling system. I actually like it a lot better. I had to put a second layer of plexiglass on the computer unit so I can move one of its "legs" away, so I can fit the power supply. Results:



  6. #66
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    [SoundMan, I hope you are still reading this thread once in a while]

    So I hooked up everything (monitor/amp/pc) to one power supply, similar to how it's gonna be hooked up in the car. Immediately I had two problems:

    1. I have a SPST switch on the IGN line, which is a line that branches off the power supply V-IN. That way, I get a constant line (simulates battery), a line with a switch (simulates ignition) and, of course, ground. I noticed that if I hook up the amplifier to the IGN line and throw the switch, the amplifier does not turn on and the power supply shuts off as well. I wonder if the amp shorts the line if it detects a problem? But what problem is there to detect? Of course there's some momentary noise on the line due to the switch flipping, but I thought this amp is OK with variable DC voltage.

    2. I switched the amp to get power from the constant line. I throw the switch, the power supply sends Power On signal and everything turns on great. Now I get noise coming from all the speakers. It's nothing too dramatic but would definitely be noticeable, even in the car (or maybe not, it's hard to tell in a quiet room). The sound still plays fine, but there's noise - the noise changes when I move the mouse or start a program. Without turning anything off, I unplug the amp wires from the sound card and plug in my headphones - no noise. I plug in the amplifier into my phone's headphone jack - no noise either. It's only when the amp is connected to the sound card that I get the noise. I'm aware of ground loop noise, but both of these parts are connected to the same ground and powered from the same power supply - how can there be any ground loops? [EDIT] I think I misunderstood how ground loops occur. I think it is a ground loop issue - I'll add ground loop isolators into the line and see if it helps.

    If anyone has any idea what's going on, please let me know!

  7. #67
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    i still try to keep up with it

    some motherboards rely on their metal case to provide a ground between components-- in your case, it could be lacking a ground connection from one of the usb chipset shields.

    if there are solder rings around the screw holes you can try to attach all of those together, and then attach those to the ground of the power supply..

    for your first test, if your using a pc power supply for voltage, you might need to try it with a car battery. but, your correct in the way you connected it(12v constant, 12v switched off that line, and ground)

    before i had recommended that amp, i had checked the specs, and everything about it suggested that it was built with the intent to handle the voltage fluctuations of a car environment..

  8. #68
    Variable Bitrate
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    Hmm, good suggestion! I was about to go to radioshack and buy some ground loop isolators. I can easily test your theory by getting some alligator clips and clipping a wire onto one of the mobo standoffs and the GND of the power supply.
    As far as the amp goes, I've posted on 41hz.com's forums to see what people might suggest there. Maybe it's the power supply that gets messed up by the SPST switch, and not the amplifier? I could test it with another power supply, but I'm afraid that maybe the only thing that prevented me from frying my amp was the power supply (and some safety thing inside it).

  9. #69
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    it really depends on the power supply--

    example:
    i have a 2 standard ac-dc pc power supplies:

    one is rated for 16A max on the 12v rail, and one rated for around 26A max on the 12v rail.

    i have connected the a known-working car radio, with a factory-supplied 10A fuse, to both of these along with a set of speakers--at around half volume both power supplies will blow their internal fuse, and require resetting.

    according to the specs, everything is well below max, so in theory, everything should work... but the power supplies are still blowing their resettable fuses...

    this is very similar to what your problem sounds like..

    a car battery would be a good next step-- just be sure to fuse the power wire in case there really is a wiring/device fault..

    this way, if you still have problems, you can rule out the ac-dc psu not supplying enough power, and can resume using it.

    but, if you no longer have problems, you would have arrived at the same conclusion i did with the car radio-- the psu just can't provide enough power to meet the needs of the devices..

  10. #70
    Variable Bitrate
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    that is a sound theory except for the amp works fine if i'm using the direct 12V line. Same line with a switch - power supply shuts off. I know that the switch works, because that line turns on the dcdc-usb just fine. So it's a problem with the switch giving power to the amp. Either the problem is with the power supply or with the amp - that's what I can't figure out.

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