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Thread: All-in-one Atom330/ION project

  1. #81
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    Thanks for your advice kegobeer! I have a Pioneer system, an all-in-one gps solution, with 22watts rms per channel. How does it work off the radio harness that way?
    I don't doubt that you need dedicated lines for powerful amplifiers, but I have a stock 4-speaker system in my sub-compact sedan - I'm not looking to shatter any windows here

  2. #82
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Sorry, I thought you were running your PC to an amplifier, not to a head unit. That head unit doesn't draw much, and they tend to be much better grounded and shielded against RFI. Your computer, on the other hand, is not and can pick up all kinds of nasty noise. Between that and the additional current, that's why I recommend using a dedicated 12V line to power your PC.

    If you have any kind of amplifier installed in your car, you should run a new line for it.

  3. #83
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    No you had it right, I'm running the pc to the amplifier, a tiny AMP9-BASIC from 41hz. I'm just saying that other aftermarket stereos do just fine drawing power from the harness and power their internal amplifiers.

  4. #84
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nivanov View Post
    No you had it right, I'm running the pc to the amplifier, a tiny AMP9-BASIC from 41hz. I'm just saying that other aftermarket stereos do just fine drawing power from the harness and power their internal amplifiers.
    I'm just offering my experience with aftermarket stereos and amplifiers and computers. Since you've made up your mind I won't bring it up again. Just remember that GLIs are just band-aids and it's always better to find and fix what's causing the interference, and I wager that using the radio harness is adding to the problem.

  5. #85
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    while the GLI is usually a less-then-desirable way to get clear sound, sometimes in cases like this, it is all that can be done...

    the thing to remember though is that car radios are usually shielded very well, and their end-use is taken into the design. for the carpc, you have removed the metal case from the motherboard, and most of the components were never meant for a car environment, so everything is less shielded..

    so while a standard car radio might deal better with wiring problems, a carpc is going to be way more sensitive to that..

    you have done your homework on the total power draw, so i don't believe that the total system draw is too much of a issue. but when in doubt, it is always better to pull your own power wire. it gives you control over all aspects of the wiring and connections... you know exactly what is getting power off the wire, the size of the wire, and the fuse rating-- in my car, the factory radio fuse also goes to other devices, so what appears to be a 10a max is reduced due to powering the other devices..

    and in most cases, this can make it easier to track down problems.
    Last edited by soundman98; 02-06-2011 at 08:31 PM.

  6. #86
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    Thanks for the help guys. I haven't even hooked up the system yet to my car, and I'll keep you updated. It very well might be the case that I have to do the "big 3" upgrade - the one that kegobeer mentioned. But I'd like to do the least amount of work possible with the car - first, cuz I'm a computer guy, not a car guy. Second, is that my goal is to make it an all-in-one solution, sort of like a navigation system that I have installed right now. I need to buy another monitor and get that installed and then it's time to put it in the car.

  7. #87
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    So I bought an open frame Lilliput (since I've messed up my MiniTouch). The voltage rating for that lilliput is 11-13V. Is it safe to hook it up to the IGN line? I'm powering it via the AUX port on my DCDC-USB, so even though the voltage is not regulated, there's a delay between IGN and when AUX port gets powered (so, the monitor doesn't have to deal with cranking dips in voltage). Is this safe enough? I can also take apart the cigarette lighter thing and see if there's any stabilization circuitry inside, and I can solder that to the power line from the AUX port. Is that a good idea?

  8. #88
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    I would use the adapter, it cleans up alot of noise. I had mine hooked up direct to factory wiring and I always had lines on the screen. Once I cut the end off the car charger adapter and wired through that, all was great! Hope this helps SNO

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    I would use the adapter, it cleans up alot of noise. I had mine hooked up direct to factory wiring and I always had lines on the screen. Once I cut the end off the car charger adapter and wired through that, all was great! Hope this helps SNO
    Thanks SNO! Do you remember how much circuitry there is in the adapter? I expect it to be minimal, but just wanna make sure. One way or the other, I'll be able to squeeze it in my project box, although it's getting hella tight

  10. #90
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    usually its just a small v shaped board, a couple of caps and resistors

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