2010 Honda Ridgeline - Carputer Build

**smufguy** · 07-24-2011, 10:13 PM

Honesty, I am not great or even good with bondo and body filler stuff. As you can see in my previous shots, I cut the side part of the Metra D-Din too much that exposed too much of the open area. I had to use a metal plate and then the Plastic Metal compound to fill in and sand it. This gave me a perfect 8" viewable section an the way the screen sits, you can see every single corner of the LCD screen.

The reason the back of the screen looks bastardized is due to the fact that the screen sits on an angle and I could not get either a long enough structure to hold the screen in place. I reused the original retaining plates and screws to secure the screen to the Metra D-Din adapter but had to use the wooden dowels stacked in two to get enough height to use a metal strip wrapped in electrical tape to secure the screen laterally to the dash kit. There are two support plates on top and bottom that support the screen vertically so it does not slide down, and the metal strip along the middle prevents it from moving laterally (inside the kit). all wooden dowels were secured to the kit using generous amount of epoxy.

I used electrical tape on much of the edges of the screen to prevent any sort of accidental electrical short and also velcro tabs to keep the LCD circuit board secured to the back.

I will upload some of the MOBO/PSU later to show how they look.

**Dekonick** · 07-25-2011, 03:22 PM

Can't wait to see the pictures. You need to post pics on the RL forum too!

I still am having great conflict deciding which screen to go with... I would prefer something like what you are doing, but as I have the RTL my radio is 2din... and I like having the volume control on the radio... I would probably use the existing aux in port...with a carputer mounted in the center console. I tried a wind PC (not laptop, but the netop... )and it doesn't fit in either place. I have a HP netbook I may use... or perhaps I might just mount the wind PC behind the rear seat... or in the trunk. The trunk concerns me for fear of lack of ventilation... so I am still trying to decide. As far as screen, it may have to be a pop out type. Any advice?

**smufguy** · 07-26-2011, 12:12 PM

Hey Dekonick, thanks for the props. Once I am done, I will post it up at ROC forums.

If I was you, I would not mount the CPU anywhere in the trunk or behind the rear seat. If you are using a netbook to power up the carputer, then you are better off using the cpu part of the netbook (in a custom case) and mount it under the passenger seat. I would not mount it to the floor, but to the seat itself. Now that you have a RTL, it might be an issue cause you have power seats and I have an RL so I have room underneath my DR and PASS seats.

If you are using a netbook, it probably is a 10" screen and it can be done, if you are excellent with bondo or body filler stuff............. which I am not. 7" screen would have been a walk in the park, but the cost difference and the visuals on the 8" made me go the extra length to adapt the 8" screen. Since I still run the itx mobo, It is well encapsulated in the dash itself with no issue.

I am looking into a dash mounted volume control knob that I could adapt to the Metra bracket on the outside and have not found a nice one yet. You are lucky to have an aux port and unfortunately, I have to do everything custom.

**smufguy** · 07-30-2011, 12:37 AM

Here are some with the kit, screen, mobo, and m4atx put together and running.

Did some test runs and the touch screen is pretty responsive at the recommended resolution. I have to start wiring on the cabin for the 4 channel amp, gps, radio and wireless. I also have to start getting the additional USB ports ready and also the Aux in line hooked up.

**Dekonick** · 07-31-2011, 08:29 PM

Looking good so far... I am not so sure my aux in is such a good thing as I have a double din stock radio. My options are to either remove radio, etc... to put in a TS in the 2DIN. I am leaning more and more toward a toughbook... I just have to wait until they get new toughbooks at work and buy one or 2 of the older models... guess it will have to wait for a big drug bust... that's when they seem to buy most of the computers... with siezure money... then the PD gives the FD the old laptops... and the old FD laptops get auctioned.

I do like having a center mount laptop. It is nice and easy to work with. I am tempted to try my HP touchsmart laptop, but don't think I can find a docking solution that is nearly as plud and play as the toughbooks...

I have too many options... and still mulling over what to do. Your setup looks fantastic so far! Did you think about an Elemental Designs subwoofer for behind the rear seats? If you are making all of this custom work... why not put in an ED enclosure?

**smufguy** · 07-31-2011, 09:28 PM

I did some test fit yesterday and I have to admit, it fits perfect. The gap towards the steering wheel is due to the fact that the dash molding was not snapped on fully due to the test fit, but as you can see from the passenger side, the Metra kit fits in perfectly.

While I was at it, I installed the Amplifier and ran all necessary wires and also installed and wired up my backup camera. Now all I have to do is replace my speakers and install the Aux wiring and the DVD/CD Drive.

**smufguy** · 08-01-2011, 01:44 PM

Unfortunately all the subs, including the JL that I have, wont fit behind the seat as my 4-channel amp is now residing in that location. With the size of that thing, it is really hard not to place in a location where its cooling fans (2 fans, one main and one side) might be blocked by the backrest of the back seat.

What I did find were these three.

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...ofers/KSC-SW10

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CMIBEPMCMAU

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CKsBEPMCMAc

At this point, I am primarily looking to just have the system running and then maybe later on this year, I may add the low profile powered sub and install it either next to the Amp or find a space under the pass front seat.

**Dekonick** · 08-01-2011, 02:19 PM

It looks even better now. I am stoked as I can 'borrow' your template and do something similar if I can't get a toughbook from work...

**smufguy** · 08-06-2011, 07:22 AM

Been working on this in my spare time and made some progress

USB PORTS

Couple of days ago, I installed the USB ports for AUX inputs. This is where my mp3 player would plug in, phone would charge, and the wireless card would plug in if I need to access wireless. As you could see, when sitting down on the front seats, you cannot see the ports. This is part of the center console extension right below the radio and storage tray.

IN-CAR TEST RUN

I wired up the system in the car to make sure the ignition on and off properly turned off the computer and turned on the computer. Also had to make sure that the Reverse camera worked. For some reason, the picture seems to be reversed. Maybe it is 1130pm cross eye syndrome, but I could not wrap my mind around it.

I have a problem with the amp not turning on. The power light came on and it was on for a while, but no sound, then again it went to poop. I am trying to figure out if it is okay to run the amp remote wire to the ignition of the car.

NOTE: I have to read more on the anti-thump feature on the M4ATX

**smufguy** · 08-08-2011, 08:04 AM

This is probably going to be my last set of updates for the next two weeks as I will be out of the country.

I installed the CD/DVD drive into the compartment that is right below the radio/screen. It has a small door that would close and open hiding the CD/DVD drive and also keeping the interior near stock look.

NOTE: I used the batteries to put pressure on the drive so that the epoxy would set. I used epoxy on the top surface of the drive to mate it to the top of the cubby. It is a USB drive and it powers off the USB cable, if it is used for CD/DVD Burning (which in my case it is not) then the auxiliary power input is necessary. The Drive hangs over the actual cubby itself, but cleares the back once installed. All imperfections were closed off using plastic putty. The last two pictures show how the finished product looks like both open and closed.