I can't recommend this seller enough, folks. Despite the fact that the board damage is my fault, he has emailed me with directions for which capacitor should be replaced for the board to come back to life. Though I don't have a replacement yet, surely enough, upon removing this capacitor (likely the input decoupling capacitor, based on the connection from +12V to the positive terminal of the cap and from ground to the negative terminal of the cap), I no longer see a short from VDD to ground. If I'm feeling reckless, I might try hooking this board up to the opus without the cap (based on the guarantee that the opus is putting out exactly 12V), but after one near-board-death (and still unresolved) experience, I probably won't.
The Lilliput and ByByte case came in yesterday and the amp came in today - might be building soon!
No cap, no problem!
The board is lighting up again. Now I just need to find the specific brand/type of memory that the seller said was tested with this CPU and I should be all set!
Oh yeah... and I should put that cap back in, shouldn't I.
Step 1 - install SSD:
Step 2 - place board in case and realize that standoffs don't line up with board mounting holes:
Next step: drill/punch holes in case where the audio jacks are such that their metal housing is flush with the case. Only one of the holes on the board lines up with the case in the preferred board orientation, so I may need to get some double-sided tape for the other three mounting posts (unless someone can suggest where I can find raised plastic standoffs).
Memory is on order and should arrive by the end of the week. I will not actually assemble the case with the screen until I have tested the board and installed the OS.
I tried lining up the Opus next to the case, and it looks like the best bet will be mounting it to the top of the case. It comes pre-installed in a U-shaped bracket (covering the bottom and sides), which I might be able to wedge between the top of the case and the side walls if there's a quarter inch to spare in the double DIN slot of my car (if not, I may cut/sand down the metal bracket). There's basically no other place that it will fit - it's too long for a side wall and can only be mounted on the back wall if the fan is removed.
I'm also building an all-in-one, and the solution I came up with was to extend the standoffs for the motherboard to build a second shelf on top of it. This essentially gives you a second tier and just as much real estate as you had before you put the mobo in. I bought a sheet of plexiglass, cut it in the shape of the motherboard and drilled the holes to put the standoffs through:
Originally Posted by aindfan
Thanks for the photo - if I take this approach with the Opus, I lose the space on the side for the TDA7850 amp + heatsink. I'll have to go shopping for those metal standoffs and nuts - Radio Shack should have them, I imagine. Is the screw end of the standoff long enough to make it through the plastic bottom of the case and still get a good grip with the washer?
Good news! The board is powering up!
The board requires (seriously... requires!) DDR3 1333 PC3 10600 memory. Now that I installed this type, I am able to go through BIOS setup and boot a linux installer. I'm getting LinuxICE onto a USB drive right now, and I'll leave some space for Windows XP. Here's my partitioning plan:
100MB /boot ext2
10GB / ext4
15GB WinXP NTFS
65GB Media NTFS
(Assume rounding to get ~96GB - I'll let the partitioning tool do the lifting on that front.)
Quite a bit since my last post (but not too much...)
I've given up on Linux since then and I now have Windows 7 installed. The touchscreen was far too unstable under Linux (cursor was jumping to the left edge very often, creating click/drag events), and now that I'm in Win 7, I get access to absolutely amazing voice recognition software (from Microsoft, it comes with the OS). I also get the MS tablet on-screen keyboard. "Flicks" don't work, because the eGalax touch driver doesn't act like a tablet but a simple mouse.
As for the frontend choice, I really like OpenMobile, but RR has been looking better and better as I try a few different themes.
Now back to hardware: I'll post some pictures this evening, but in the mean time...
(First, a shoutout to my dremel, for all that it has done to make working with ABS plastic really, really easy)
- Motherboard is mounted on 20mm radio shack headers, with holes drilled into the bottom of the case
- Power supply is mounted upside down to the top of the case, with connectors facing down. Mounting holes are drilled in the top of the case for 10mm radio shack headers.
- Amp will go on the side wall of the case, and I have yet to work out how I connect to it from the motherboard. I will most likely use the front panel connector on the motherboard and solder the amp end of the L/R audio wire to the board where the RCA connectors are mounted (I will most likely remove them like nivanov did)
- Joycon will go on the other side wall of the case, just taped up (no mounting holes available)
The screen mount is a bit more complicated. I got the mp3car Lilliput 669GL NP/C/T with the sunlight readable coating, and the 669 is somewhere between compatible and incompatible with the ByByte enclosure. I tried ordering the 669-compatible H-bracket from Mo-Co-So, but it does not fit in the enclosure (bracket hits floor of the case and the board does not align without cutting a slot in the bottom of the case). In addition, this caused the board to get too close to the SATA cable, preventing it from fitting between the screen and the motherboard. Therefore, I ended up cutting the H bracket into two pieces and taking out part of the middle. Now, I have the panel secured at each side of the ByByte case, and the screen controller board is wedged in the bezel area of the case. I'll try to post a picture of this later to make it clearer.
Anyone have any security ideas to hide the screen when it's in the car? Does anyone make a cover that can snap into the Metra bezel and cover up the screen, or is this still too obvious and a waste of time? Is the only real to remove the whole PC if I'm going to a city?
It turns out this motherboard actually has four channels of output, L/R for front and rear speakers. It turns out that the rear 1/8" jack and the front panel audio header on the board are different channels! No splitters needed anymore - I can just plug straight from the board to the amp, in the case of the front panel header, or 1/8" -> RCA for the rear jack.
I think the best, cheapest and most practical thing to do is to order a Universal double Din radio stereo dummy cover from ebay
See the images on this link, shows how is uses a center volume button to attach it to the touchscreen using a vacuum I believe.
How is the AMD fusion dual 1.5Ghz motherboard when running Windows 7 with RR? screen changes,audio playback etc.?