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Thread: 2008 Peugeot 207 beeing upgraded just a bit - The whole new beginning

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    Maximum Bitrate boelle's Avatar
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    2008 Peugeot 207 beeing upgraded just a bit - The whole new beginning

    Day 269 A whole new beginning (25-06-2011)

    So the last few weeks I have beening stripping the install and building a false floor for all the hardware. Only a very few things are external.

    The box/false floor look like this, only missing some usb hubs:



    From top left to right:

    • DAB Tuner - The European standard for HD Radio
    • Aureon 5.1 USB MK II
    • USB Video input dongle - Rear cam is connected to this one
    • Park Distance - More about that one here: http://www.mp3car.com/hardware-devel...y-pdc-usb.html
    • Trust 4 Port USB Hub Powered - http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=14789
    • PC
    • Power controller
    • USB I/O Box from Mitch


    The DAB Tuner is a bit of a hack, its 2 parts, the tuner chip on a small board and a board with some power regulators, connectors etc. I got the tuner board from a cheap sony DAB radio.

    Looks like this inside:



    I opted for USB soundcard since the onboard only had 3 connectors. And with mic and dab tuner I needed both line-in and mic, but I also wanted to be able to have 4.1/5.1 sound. Windows 7 can output the centerspeaker in a 5.1 system to the front speakers so its becomes a 4.1 system, in the early days of home theater that option was called phantom speaker. Only downside is that is does not have acoustic echo cancellation. So when on phone the other part will hear themselfes twice. But that can be done with by routing mic and front speakers through the SOHO Conference Card from Phoenix Audio. Even thou it's a PCI card that is only used to get 5V. I just have to solder some wires on at the right spot.

    I got the video input dongle from amazon.co.uk (just search for easy cap), think it's a very generic one where only the sticker outside differs. All I know it suits my needs very well. I have allready made space for one more so I can have a cam in the front (hence the loose usb cable)

    The 4 port hub from trust just suited well, powered so I dont put load on the pc itself. Have ordered 3 more along with some usb extensions that go to the dash. Stuff are on backorder and I did go cheap on postage.

    The Park distance kit was ordered from the user dejan here on this board, he does a great job and I can't say anything bad about it. Works together with the cam to provide both a live video and graphic that shows how far from objects and where they are. The kit is ordered here: http://www.carpc.si/shop/hardware?vmcchk=1. I plan to put in one set more for the front, the kit is the same, but the signal from the usb box tells the plugin that its the front. (again the reason for another loose usb cable)

    The PC itself are made up of these parts:

    • Motherboard: Zotac ION ITX A
    • RAM: 2 GB Crucial + 2 GB Kingston
    • Harddrive: Seagate Momentus 160 GB
    • Internet: Novatel Expedite EU850D


    Nothing special to say, the novatel device is a 3G modem, the counterpart to UMTS. Harddrive is off for now, the plan is to replace it with a SSD drive and just have the media files on the old one and have that spin down when not in use. Only missing a 4 GB usb stick so I can use the readyboost feature of Windows 7.

    Next to the pc is the power controller, it's based on the picaxe controller that can be reprogrammed when needed. I made up the schematic myself but had mitchjs from this board make it pro. It looks like this inside:



    and the schematic:



    I got 10 boards made and got 2 of them mounted with components. If you want one pm me or mitch. I might be slow in responding.

    The code inside the picaxe looks like this:

    Code:
    #REM Simple Power Controller V.1.0
    
    *******************************************************************************
    ********************** Program Size 35 out of 256 Bytes ***********************
    *******************************************************************************
    
    #ENDREM
    
    Start:				;Main program start
    
    Symbol T = B4
    T=0
    
    setint %00000000,%00001000 	;Go straight to interrupt when pin3 goes low ie when 12V is applied, no matter what
    		
    Main:					;Main program loop label
    	if t = 0 then main
    	if pin3 = 0 then main	;If acc is on then stay on
    	Wait 50                 ;wait 50 secs before cutting power
    	Low 1
    	Low 2
    	
    goto Start				;Goto start 
    
    Interrupt:
    	
    	Wait 5                          wait 5 secs before booting pc
    	High 1
    	Wait 60                         wait another 55 secs before turning on the amp relay
    	High 2
    	T=1
    	return				 ;Goto main program loop and continue
    The code almost explains itself, the hardware have option to monitor voltage but I have not included that yet.

    Next to the power controller is the I/O box also from mitch. This has 4 inputs and 4 relays. I now use this to turn on the amp's. By doing it this way I will be able to turn them off when not needed. Also I monitor when I hit the lightswitch to get instrument lights. We have daytime running lights required here in Denmark so the output from the canbus adapter is of no use. Also the park break is monitored to block video when moving. Lastly I monitor the ign line and use that to put the pc in hybernation when I take the key out. For now the pc can boot in the same time it takes me to get the car out of the garage and lock the garage door. I'm not that crazy I would hunt for small install like many do, I have tried it and to much can screw up.

    Below we have the amps and PSU's for the usb hubs and pc.

    The amp's are both from pioneer (GM-X624 + GM-X402) and have served me well since I got my first car (well over 10 years ago) they are still going strong so see no sense in getting new ones.

    The PSU's under the small amp are 12->5 V ones that can put out 2A, meaning that each port on the hub can take the max of 0,5A - don't want no bottlenecks in my install if I can help it. The PSU for the pc is from the local car parts store. It's a cheap one, but puts out more watts than the brick that followed the pc.

    A small fusebox and 2 relay's round off the box. The 2nd relay is just an extra, the other one turns of everything except amps and pc. Only thing not mentioned is a generic bluetooth dongle.

    Plans for tomorrow are to clean up the part of the install I did not strip (wifi and 3G etc.) Easy done but has to be done. What it means is that those bits will come in cable sleeving and the end with connectors are secured to where the wireloom from the box end behind the dash. In that way stuff are fast to connect when the box goes to the car and no plugs are pulled by mistake or vibrations. More pics of that when I get to it.

    Day 273 Cable sleeving (29-06-2011)

    Got all the cables from front to rear in cable sleeving. Not much to say but this is what I came up with. It's about 30 degree's C here so not much work done on car.



    Day 274 Cables installed (30-06-2011)

    Got cables installed. Now it's just one big loom from behind dash to boot/trunk. For those who have not seen my log from before I moved stuff here is some pics starting with the umts/3g antennas:



    GPS and 9dbi Wifi antenna, wifi will be covered by the trim plastic covering the pillar:



    USB plug for the tire pressure reciever, the reciever has to be located that high to work right without false readings, I just pull the headlinning a bit and slide the box under it:



    All the usb cables run down at the pillar and under the glovebox, that is out until everything is running. You can see the wifi dongle in the corner, it has ext. connector for the antenna, so I opted to relocate it there so the plastic trim could be more flush with the window.



    All the wires run in a single cable sleeving sock on top of the center tunnel/box, it will be covered by a plastic trim piece:



    Behind the filt cover in the boot is the box for park distance messurement:



    All cables end in the boot, looks like a mess right now:



    Sensors for the park distance and cam:

    Last edited by boelle; 06-30-2011 at 01:21 PM.
    Blessed are the "cracked" for it is they who let in the light.

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