Well one have to draw a line and say when enough is enough, I came to a point where I was tired of changing stuff.
But it all started here in a Peugeot 106: http://http://www.mp3car.com/vbullet...-just-bit.html then I got a 207: http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/14449...ust-a-bit.html I revised that in this log: http://http://www.mp3car.com/worklog...beginning.html now it has to come to and end with changing all the time.
So first the famous HW list:
- Motherboard: Zotac ION ITX A
- RAM: 2 GB Crucial + 2 GB Kingston
- Harddrive: Sandisk Cruzer 16GB USB Stick
- Internet: Novatel Expedite EU850D
- Bluetooth: ISSC
- Rearview Cam: EasyCap USB 2.0 Video Capture Device + Colour Camera with Night Vision
- Amps: Pioneer GM-X624 + Pioneer GM-X402
- Tire Pressure Monitor: Module from Dejan and 10 Sensors from 3rd eye
- Park Distance Messurement: Complete Kit from Dejan
- Sub: Pioneer TS-VX205
- Rear Speakers: Stock Peugeot
- Front Spekaer: Stock Peugeot
- Arials: DAB / FM inc. 5 meter DAB cable
- Tuner: DAB / FM (venice v5 based)
- Microphone: Andrea Superbeam Microphone
- Wifi: TP-Link WN422G + 9dbi Antennas for both dongle and inhouse router
- USB Sound: Aureon 5.1 USB MK II
- Arials: 2 for 3G
- Screen: 7" Lilliput 669GL-70NP/C/T-HB-RV HDMI DVI
- 4*4 port powered usb hub
- GPS: Navilock NL-302U
Only planned upgrade are Park Distance Kit for the front, maybe a cam too and change the dongle for one that has 4 inputs but combines them in to one image and that uses the same drivers.
Other upgrade that might come before that are a joycon controller so I can use the stock control stalk.
- OS: Windows Home 7 premium 64 Bit
- Frontend: RR
- Skin: Carwings "FatFree"
- Plugins: BASS - RRPDC-1.30 - RRTMS-1.40 - RRTrafficCam - RRFuelprices -
- Bluetooth: Bluesoleil 8
- Navigation: Sygic
- GPSGate free version
For those who have not seen my install before here it is in pics:
In the trunk/boot I have gathered most of the stuff in a false floor box
From top left to right:
- Relay activated by powercontroller
- 12V -> 19V adapter for the pc
- 4 12V->5V 2A adapters for the 4 hubs
- Pioneer GM-X402
- Distribution Bloks for both + and ground (ground is connected to seatbelt bracket bolt)
- Pioneer GM-X624
From buttom right to left:
- DAB Tuner
- Aureon 5.1 USB MK II
- USB Video input dongle
- Park Distance
- 4 Trust 4 Port USB Hubs (Powered)
- Power controller from Mitch
- USB I/O Box also from Mitch
- CAN Bus Adapter
Inside box with DAB tuner:
Lid for the box still needs to be covered in black fabric like the box itself. With lid on the boot looks like this:
Both amps and pc stuff are grounded via a distribution block to the same seatbelt bolt. No noise except some USB data noise. Might need to upgrade USB sound card, the current one lacks echo cancel features anyway.
Hardware for the distance messurement is 2 parts, the usb box in the false floor box and another that is directly connected to the sensors. Last box is mounted behind the panel to the right in the boot, there is a rubber gromet here anyway. Video feed from cam are wired that way too.
Under the center tunnel console I have tapped in to park break signal and headlights so I can change skin mode when I turn on the lights and block video if car is not parked. Sorry no pics of that. Headlights signal from CAN bus is on always as daytime running lights are required here, but instrument lights are not on before i flip the lights switch.
At the double DIN hole I opted to buy a ISO plug so I did not have to hack in to the cars wiring. At this plug I get CAN bus signals and and also feed the speakers that way. My goal was to get a balance between clean install and hack as little I could. In fact the install can be removed without leaving other signs than the sensors+cam in the rear bumber. I can just put in the org. display for those and a double din car stereo with navi and rear cam input and no one would ever know ther had been a pc in the car. Also at this hole I split up wires for mic, 3G arials, wlan, tire pressure box, GPS and mini usb at screen.
Mic is placed just behind steering wheel:
Dongle for WIFI is just under the glovebox, keept in place by the trim over the feet. It has ext. antenna and antenna is behind the pillar. At the corner of windshield are the 2 arials for 3G and under headlinning in the middle are box for tire pressure.
The arial for DAB is a roof mount thing and for lucky me it was same hole as the stock one, but it was a bi**h to mount had to enlist a helper to push down on outside part while i struggled with nut and washers on the inside. It's a powered arial so no problems. wires are routed beind the pilar trim and 12V line goes to fusebox in false floor box and arial goes to DAB tuner in same box.
There is nothing spec about the install of Windows 7 as such, it's more when windows is loaded the fun begins,
I start by tweaking it, I don't use utils for this, as they often give more trouble than they are worth. But I have found a series of youtube videos that are very usefull. First one is disabling the indexing service:
The next is disable UAC (you might want to do this before anything else):
Next is to adjust the system for best performance, it will make windows look a lot more like windows 2000, but then who needs effect etc. when running a frontend most of the time:
Next one is to set the pagefile to a set size, windows is always adjust the size and that takes time:
To protect the system against data loss do the direct opposite of this video, it will go a tad slower, but who want to risk bad data?
Set system to high performance mode, this will bring you arround setting for turning off display etc:
Next one disables thumbnail preview, don't know how usefull that is when you don't use windows as much as on a desktop, but it can't hurt:
This is the right way to get rid of aero, again who cares that windows looks nice?
A no brainer, don't use wallpaper:
Boot with all cores active:
Disable core parking:
Last edited by boelle; 12-14-2011 at 02:41 PM.
Blessed are the "cracked" for it is they who let in the light.