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Thread: front end layout topology

  1. #1
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    front end layout topology

    alright, this is my system -

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    and this is the wiring diagram for the front end - this is the most streamline design i could come up with, with no 2nd regulator, and 1 relay. in this layout i'll only be running 1 USB externasion from my trunk with a VGA, and that is ALL. everything else will be powered up front via the way i have it laid out below.

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    the dvd rom will be mounted much like this mod

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    and if you're interested, this is a little video i did with my setup, this is a centrafuse front end.



    I'd love to hear some feedback, i'm curiouse if this hub will have the balls to support the DVD rom, i know it has the bandwith. it's just a matter of power i think. another layout i came up with was this -

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  2. #2
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    moved to forum "work logs". It really wasn't a forum question. thanks.

  3. #3
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Looks good, one thing I would check though.

    The HUB looks like it will be powered up before the MB gets power. I found that “some” USB devices can intermittently come up un-initialised when this happens and (if using Win) require a restart in device manager.

    If that happens just switch the +12v to the HUB via a relay controlled from the PC-PSU +12v, or just use the PSU +12v to power the HUB if there is enough reserve capacity.

    Good luck with the project.
    Last edited by Mickz; 12-17-2011 at 07:14 PM.
    GA-Z77N-WIFI, i5-2400S, 8GB, Intel 520 128GB SSD, M4-ATX Modified, 2 Rev Cams, 2 Web Cams
    8" 16:9 TRANSFLECTIVE, Win8-64, Dual GPS RX and Garmin PC + Odyssey Nav, FM-DAB+, BB-Rec
    T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, code and FE. CarPC Project

  4. #4
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    in the real world they both get a remote switch at the same time, i guess I would have to test that and see, i have NO room on my psu, i am running a 100 watt cpu, an ssd and a HDD. i MIGHT get another power rail for the HDD though because theirs 15 watts, plus i have a video card, but i got a video card that draws 12 watts at full load so i think i'm good with what it's runing i'm gonna pull like 7 watts tops. but still the biggest PSU is 250 with a 300 peak, i'll likley be damn close to that 250 with my setup, but we'll see. i just ordered the PSU actually. ordered the nice little case thing for it to so it'll mount like a normal PSU with the ATX adapter plate, but i don't think my stilverstone uses an ATX style psu anyways, seems smaller. thanks for the feedback, thats exactly the kind of thing that would of ****ed me off had I of hooked it up in the car haha. i'm really glad ive got all this extra time before the install to work all of this out plus drawing that diagram was very fun

  5. #5
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    man i just love what you dig up when searching around. i just found something that's gonna be a massive time saver to me, no splicng, won't even need to run a seperate SATA run for the dvd rom, i can just run it down the backbone USB 3.0 cable i'll be running, man usb 3.0 turned out to be such a life saver! it has so much power and versatility. simply awesome

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ent-_-12156036

    it's not a one and done shot, BUT it has a power regulator built in that i can run 12volts to so it's perfect for my application, i'll just mount that all inside the screen housing and blamo done. gonna run me 200$ just in periferals for this bloody thing though, i was just tallying up the card, between the 15 foot usb cable, the 10 foot toslink cable, and everything else i need, its 130$ just for that, on top of which a 30$ dvd rom. sigh, this carputer is gonna hit around 1200$ when all is said and done, so glad i scored this screen for 150$ :X it's cheaky, but it's amazenly responsive, exceptionaly functional, rugid. it's jsut a beast, the guy i bought it off of had a whole crate. they were testing them on abram tanks! i **** you not. this is one of the screen they passed for their computer interface.

    alright, tweaked some things. it's a little more complex, but it gets the job done with out running a sata cable. i ******* hate slimline SATA, it's so expensive for every damn converter. took me like 3 purchaes last time to figuire out what type of sata my other slimline drive had, i geuss the name could of been a hint :P oh well.

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    Last edited by eviling; 12-17-2011 at 11:24 PM.

  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Yes, there are so many things that get missed on a first build. Not realising how much heat even a low power device can build up on a hot day if it’s forced to recirculate the same air, a PC in the trunk for example, and why running good "really heavy" gauge supply leads to the PC-PSU to remove “noise from the system” is so important to the final result and not just running cable to match the current capacity, but from the equipment you have I’m guessing you already have that covered.

    The thing with the power is that although the USB HUB and PC-PSU get powered at the same time, the PC-PSU takes a second to start, then a delay before the PC starts initialising through the Bios whereas the USB hub is instantly on. It’s took me 12 months with just the occasional intermittent USB device coming up not ready (usually on a cold boot) before I nailed it down to that, but other combinations of MB and HW may be fine.

    Dam, don't the bits add up - sigh!
    GA-Z77N-WIFI, i5-2400S, 8GB, Intel 520 128GB SSD, M4-ATX Modified, 2 Rev Cams, 2 Web Cams
    8" 16:9 TRANSFLECTIVE, Win8-64, Dual GPS RX and Garmin PC + Odyssey Nav, FM-DAB+, BB-Rec
    T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, code and FE. CarPC Project

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