Thread: 2007 Jeep Wrangler - Galaxy Tablet 2 7.0 Install

It would be easier if it dropped in from the top but because the charging port is on the left side (when the tablet is in landscape position) I'll have to slide it in from the right. I chose this way because my steering wheel would be in the way if I slid it in from the left.


I got a little further yesterday.

I painted the backside. I didn't worry about it being perfect because I plan on felting it.



Third coat of filler is on and sanded. It's a finer coat for a smoother finish. This should be the final coat. My only problem is I'm limited to 400 grit sand paper unless I order some 800 or 1000 grit online. I don't think I can wait though!









Put a coat of primer and two coats of paint (used for car bumpers).






Did a test fit after I cut the bottom/back edge. It fits pretty good. Only problem is, now I'll have to paint the rest of the center console to match!



While the faceplate was drying I went back to work on the cradle. I reinforced the back side and added a small bolt (held in place under three coats of fiberglass). The bolt will attach to the actuator. Again, I didn't worry about sanding the backside of the cradle because it will be hidden from view behind the faceplate.



The polarity reversing relay is on back-order so it looks like I'll have to wait for a while to work on the actuator. In the meantime I will finish up attaching the cradle to the faceplate, paint the center console and mount the faceplate.

Originally Posted by TxAxZxZ

- Trimmed the edges of the cradle and felted it so I can make sure the tablet fits snug. I had one problem though. The felt was a little too thick and the tablet didn't fully seat so it wouldn't charge. I had to cut the felt at the bottom so the tablet sat flush against the cradle. I can't believe the tablet has to be seated all the way in for it to charge.

This was the issue I was talking about with mine.

Originally Posted by win1forgipp

I didn't think about a 5 chan amp. That would prevent running all different power wires and remotes. I think I am going to mount the amp behind the tablet in the free space that I will gain by removing the stereo in there now. I am trying to research a backup camera that will somehow popup via bluetooth when I shift to reverse. Not sure the options out there for Android.

Originally Posted by TxAxZxZ

I'm wondering if you could get a bluetooth (or wifi) backup camera, wire it up to the reverse lights so when you go in reverse the camera comes on and have an event in tasker that, when the bluetooth camera comes on, it takes precedence over the screen. Does that sound possible?

Hey guys, if you figure this out let me know. I'm doing my tablet install in my car and my truck both, and when in the truck I would really benefit from the use of a back up camera. It's a 1994 Ford F350 Crew cab! I did some looking on this but not much. I would love a bluetooth version though.

Originally Posted by TxAxZxZ

While the faceplate was drying I went back to work on the cradle. I reinforced the back side and added a small bolt (held in place under three coats of fiberglass). The bolt will attach to the actuator. Again, I didn't worry about sanding the backside of the cradle because it will be hidden from view behind the faceplate.



The polarity reversing relay is on back-order so it looks like I'll have to wait for a while to work on the actuator. In the meantime I will finish up attaching the cradle to the faceplate, paint the center console and mount the faceplate.

I like the idea on the bolt. I didn't think about that. I was trying to figure out how I was going to attach an actuator to mine too. This is a great idea. Why type of actuator are you using? I'm just going to use a door lock actuator. I was looking at linear actuators, and they're just too long and too pricey for me. May go to it later on, if I feel it's necessary, but for now I'll experiment with the door actuator. Also what is the polarity reversing relay you're going to use? I thought you could do polarity reversing with a standard relay or a pair or something like that? I'll look. Maybe it'll help you.

Here I looked for the relays. You can do a positive to negative polarity through a standard relay. So you would need positive to activate the actuator to extend it. Then reverse that to a negative to close it. So if you use a rocker switch, double throw, then you could use one side as the positive, then the second side as the negative hooked to the relay. Does that make sense? Not sure if that's what you're going for or not.

Another tip I learned from Soundmanaudio.com, was to use pieces for the face plate. So instead of fiberglassing it like you did and I was going to do, use thin wood, or even abs, or something like that and cut into strips and cut to fit around the area you want it to on the front of your tablet. Then hot glue, ca-glue, or something them together and then either glass over that, or if you can get it strong enough, just body fill over it and sand to perfection. This is the way I'm going to do mine this time.

I think you're on to something about the hard case and hacking it up. Good idea.

Looks great overall man! You've given me some ideas as well. Can't wait to see what else you get done! Keep up the good work!

Thanks for the tips Scott. It's good to bounce ideas around so you can get different options. As far as the relay, I don't even think you need one if you're going to use a double pole, double throw (DPDT) rocker switch. I want to open/close via a single action, normally open push button (red button in picture below). It would act just like a CD-ROM. Push the button and it opens. Push it again and it closes. The reversing relay works like this: when you push the button, it sends voltage to the relay coil. The coil stays energized even though the button is no longer pressed (you don't need to hold down the button). The actuator moves until it hits a limit switch which opens the circuit. When the circuit is opened the relay automatically reverses polarity so when you push the button again, it now closes. You'll need two limit switches to do this. Most actuators have limit switches built in. In my case I am trying to use an old DVD ejection tray that I took from an old DVD/VCR combo. It has limit switches built in. I hacked it up and have it ready to install. I just need the reversing relay and a 12vdc to 5vdc converter. I'm taking a chance to see if the DVD tray can handle the load but here's my thinking on this. My Tablet is hinged on one side (in your case it will be hinged at the bottom). The hinge is holding most of the load. The DVD will push/pull on one side of it so it may only have 1/10th of actual load. Think of it as a boat trailer (or any trailer) hooked up to your truck. The boat (plus trailer) ways about 3,000lbs, but your hitch can only handle 300lbs. The axle of the trailer is taking 9/10ths of the load. This is just my theory and since I have an extra DVD ejection tray lying around I figured I would give it a try. If it doesn't work I will try something else. One thing I did notice about the ejection tray is, when closing, it uses momentum for the mechanism to reach the limit switch. With the load added it may not get the momentum it needs. It will have to be a trial and error thing.

I actually thought about the door lock actuator. I didn't think it would have enough range of motion. Do you know what the throw is (range of motion)? I was thinking I need about 3 to 4 inches, but may only need 2 inches of throw. They're pretty cheap though compared to actuators. Amazon has them for $5.00-$15.00 range (vs. a linear actuator @ $100). I think for our application, a linear actuator is way overkill but if all else fails may be the option to choose...or I may just go with the old mechanical open/close but it doesn't; it just doesn't have as big of a wow factor though.


Buttons I used with my old CarComputer. The red button was my computer reset button. I want to use it to activate the open/close. The black button is just a two position on/off I used to turn off power if needed while the ignition was still on.

I just had an idea. What if I built a small electromagnet and attached this rare earth magnet to the back of the cradle. I could had an on/off push button to the electromagnet so when it has power it reverses the polarity of the metal making the two magnets repel. The small magnet is capable of pulling 1.03kgs (about 2lbs, 4oz). Press the button again and it turns off the electromagnet making the two magnets attract each other which would pull in the cradle...hmmm I may have to try that one. Question is, will it mess with any functionality of the tablet (memory, hard drive, gps, wifi, etc).

Well I like your ideas. I get the theory. I'll keep watching to see how it works.

I'm thinking, depending on how you're doing it, you wouldn't need much for throw. I'm guessing if you're doing a hinged application like I was, then you'd only need about an inch or two of throw, closer to the bottom and that would allow for a bigger opening at the top. I only need enough room to get my fat fingers in there to slide the tablet out. But it sounds like you're wanting a full slide out. I'll be interested to see how it turns out man! I've not started rebuilding mine yet so get on it so by the time I'm ready, I can decide how I wanna do it depending on how yours works! Just kidding, well sort of!

Keep up the good work!

I would need at least 2 to 3 inches of throw. Only because my center console has a seperator on both sided (see pic a few posts up) that sticks out about 2 inches. I would have to clear this in order for the tablet to slide out smoothly. I see what you're saying in regards to how close I mount the actuator to the hinge. The closer to the hinge, the more throw I'll get...make sense and is a great point!

Yesterday I got the rest of the center console painted to match the new faceplate. I will have to post the pics later today. I also messed with adding button controls but I'm afraid that I didn't factor the buttons in when I cut the faceplate to size. The faceplate fits the cradle exactly with no room. So buttons are on the back burner for now. It's a shame because I think my idea would have worked!

This morning I felted the back side of the faceplate and mounted the cradle to the faceplate. I hot glued it in place temporarily but may make it permanent if the glue holds up ok. I also made up some brackets to attach the hinge to on the left side of the console. All is left is to cut/mount a metal plate to the two brackets and attach the hinge to it. I'll make up some sort of temporary mechanical connection to keep the faceplate from swinging open/close until I get the actuator finished. Here are some shots I took this morning.

Cradle attached to back side of faceplate using hot glue


Top view


Front View


Front View with tablet slid half way out


Side view


Front view without tablet


Front view with tablet on


Top view with tablet on


Back view. See the yellowish (dried glue) on the bottom left? I had cut holes in the cradle to access the power/volume buttons. I glued some rubbery type button controls to it, but it wouldn't fit properly in the faceplate so I removed them.


Here are the buttons I was going to use. I cut the rubber part into seperate pieces (for 3 seperate buttons; one long one for power and two small round ones for volume up/volume down). My plan was to attach the rubber buttons to the cradle (I had them attached and tested them out. They worked great!). I planned on drilling into the bottom of the faceplate to insert the hard part of the button. Once the cradle was attached to the faceplate, the soft buttons would match up to the hard buttons and voila! Or so i thought. It didn't work out that way.


I got the buttons from this device which I picked up at a flea market for $1.00 with the sole intention to use the buttons for the tablet.

Coming together nicely!

Thanks Gibb! I should have it in the jeep this weekend. I'll have to run a temporary power to it because my stuff from Amazon hasn't made it in yet.

I like it man! It's looking real good.