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Thread: 2004 - Mazda 3 Hatch - Custom CarPC Install (photos+)

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up 2004 - Mazda 3 Hatch - Custom CarPC Install (photos+)

    PHOTOS TO COME!

    I recently purchased a 2004 Mazda 3 MAXX Sport Hatch. Within one day of driving, I decided for my sanity to stay in tact the stereo had to go. With Mazda's non-standard dash and no AUX input, the only solution was to rip it all out and start from scratch. Perfect opportunity for CarPC me thinks!

    Goals are:
    - Low key installation that looks stock
    - Car PC to be powerful but power conscious
    - Simple to use front end that my lovely girlfriend can operate
    - Fully integrated front end
    - Learn as much as possible on the journey
    - Was hoping to learn how to fiberglass, but I don't think I'll need to for this

    After a week of solid research (thanks to everyone who posts on this forum, OzMazda and also Mazda3 Forums, your knowledge has been invaluable!) I think we're ready to dive in. I'll try to keep a worklog here in case anyone is interested in doing something similar to what is becoming Australia's most popular small car.

    So the plan is a false floor in the boot to hide the amps/power, CarPC under the passenger seat and touch screen in the dash. Still trying to decide on a couple of things, if you can offer any suggestions, it'll be much appreciated!
    - What DAB+ (HD) USB radio should I use with Centrafuse?
    - What Front/Rear speakers?
    - What battery?
    - Best way to carpet the boot?
    - How to protect the cables under the passenger seat?


    --Car PC specs--

    Case: M350 (from mo-co-so)
    MB: Zotac H67ITX-C-E (Wifi / Audio / HDMI / USB3)
    SSD: OCZ Octane 128GB
    PSU: M3-ATX
    CPU: Intel i3 2120T (2.60GHz | TDP 35W | Intel HD 2000 | LGA1155)
    RAM: 4GB DDR3 PC3 1333 (2x2GB) Kinsgton HyperxBlu
    LCD: Samsung 7 touchscreen (from our mate Derrik in this thread)
    Dash: Scosche MA1540B w/ MA03B Radio harness
    Frontend: Centrafuse

    --Accessories--
    GPS: GlobalSat BU-353-S4
    BT: Bluetooth 2.0 CSR USB Dongle (normal size)
    Diag: ScanTool Red OBDLink SX
    Steer: Joycon EXR Steering Wheel Interface
    Radio: TBA (suggestions??) DAB+ (HD)

    --Car Audio--
    Amp 1: Response 2 x 150W (bridged)
    Amp 2: Coustic 4 x 75W
    EQ: Clarion EQS746
    SUB: Response 10" in sealed box
    SPKRS: TBA (suggestions??) 6.5" splits
    BATT: Optima Yellow Top (capacity suggestions??) will get this when the current battery dies

    This is the plan for all components. Biggest install I have ever done - a bit scared!

    This is the sketchup plan of the false floor. It's on hinges so that the whole floor can be lifted to get to the spare tyre. The glassy sections are going to be removable carpet to let me get at the area underneath.
    Name:  Car Boot Covered.png
Views: 4638
Size:  373.4 KB

    Name:  Car Boot Bare.png
Views: 4733
Size:  375.6 KB

    A big thanks to Chris and the team at Mobile Computing Solutions (www.mo-co-so.com) - thanks for letting an Aussie guy order a bunch of stuff from the US - sooooo much cheaper over there!

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate
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    For the speakers I would highly reccomend Alpine 6.5". You can choose the model based on your wattage and spending constraints, but the 6.5" Alipine SPS600 80W work great for me! I am pushing them with an Alpine F200 200W (4 channel) and they sound beautiful. Keep in mind that they are not meant for bass output though (that's what subs are for) but they sound very crisp and handle mids/highs excellently. The pair goes for under $100 for sure.

    If you are looking to save on costs on a frontend, I would suggest checking out Driveline! It is still under development but right now it's looking pretty great (and it's free).
    Check out my project too =) http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/15065...k-box-1-a.html

  3. #3
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    Reserved for future updates

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by duncanator24 View Post
    For the speakers I would highly reccomend Alpine 6.5". You can choose the model based on your wattage and spending constraints, but the 6.5" Alipine SPS600 80W work great for me! I am pushing them with an Alpine F200 200W (4 channel) and they sound beautiful. Keep in mind that they are not meant for bass output though (that's what subs are for) but they sound very crisp and handle mids/highs excellently. The pair goes for under $100 for sure.

    If you are looking to save on costs on a frontend, I would suggest checking out Driveline! It is still under development but right now it's looking pretty great (and it's free).
    Check out my project too =) http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/15065...k-box-1-a.html
    Thanks for the Alpine suggestion Duncanator, I'll definitely have a look into those.

    I had a look at your project - crazy build you've got going there - love it!

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
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    No problem, I've been getting so much help from this Site that it's nice to give some help back. And yes crazy is generally the right answer that I'm looking for actually Lol. Hopefully I'm able to increase the insanity level soon with my Arduino.

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