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Thread: 2004 VW Jetta GLI CarPC and more

  1. #111
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Success!!!!





    Using the Xenarc remote I was able to receive the signal using the 38.5Khz IR sensor.

    The next step is to wire the sensor directly to the LCD panel and get the remote to work.

  2. #112
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Setback!

    I connected the appropriate wires from the LCD main board to the IR sensor on the bezel button board.

    Remote did not work with only 3 of 12 wires connected.

    I also could not see any voltage on the sensor.

    I tried hooking up my powered IR sensor to the output line going to the LCD but that didn't work either.

    It would be real nice if Xenarc would help out......what will it take to get the remote to work without using the entire bezel?

    In the mean time, I will rewire the entire harness and see if the bezel is working.

  3. #113
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Progress!

    I lengthened the harness to the Xenarc bezel and everything works on the bezel including the remote.



    Now I just have to figure out which wires need to be connected to the IR sensor.

    It should not be too difficult, I need power, ground, and an output wire.

    I am waiting on a schematic from Xenarc.

    In the mean time I might poke around and test some voltages and continuity.

  4. #114
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Thank you Jimmy Hu, Xenarc.



    Just what I needed. Will test for 5v and give it another try.

  5. #115
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Works!



    Now I can just mount any IR receiver and use the remote. No need to cut-up the bezel and try to fabricate something that looks good.

  6. #116
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    I have taken the dash apart, hopefully, for the last time.

    Three things to accomplish.

    Permanently mount the LCD to the radio cage.

    Permanently wire the IR sensor.

    Rewire the turn on signal to the power supply and remove the res button and LED in the dash.

    I have decided to use magnets to mount the display. Once mounted, the magnets will hold the display in place and allow for the display to be easily removed. Which is essential to get to the wiring if I should ever remove the radio cage in the future.

    I and starting with these magnets.



    Step one is to remove the mounting tabs.


  7. #117
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Here are the magnets on the backside of the LCD.





  8. #118
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Here is one magnet mounted on the bottom of the radio cage from 2 different angles.




    The challenge, there is always a challenge, is mounting the upper magnets.

    The radio cage does not have any upper support to mount the magnets.


  9. #119
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    I discovered that there is a lip under the dash.



    The lip does a couple of things. It provides a solid backstop for the LCD panel.

    The lip is recessed one inch from the front of the dash. The LCD panel with the backplate installed with velcro is 1/2 inch deep.

    That means the top of the LCD panel will be approximately 1/2 inch from the front of the dash. Thats a good thing because the bottom will be 1/4 inch back. The top will lay further back and the monitor will be tilted up for better viewing.

    So, how to use that to my advantage. I could mount the magnets above and behind the lip where the surface is solid. It is actually the bottom of the center vent assembly.



    Looking from the floor:



    To do this I would have to remove the lip on each side and the width of each magnet.

    Another option is to find a clip to put over the lip with a magnet on the clip. No modification needed. Plus I have about 1/4 inch to work with.

    More research!
    Last edited by cazzz; 03-09-2013 at 07:43 PM.

  10. #120
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    The LCD is installed and the car is back together.

    Here is the radio cage with magnets on the bottom and an "L" bracket with Velcro across the top.




    I also installed the monitor's speakers in the radio cage.



    I removed the switch that served as the accessory power to the PSU and wired it directly.

    I used an IR sensor designed for Arduino.



    The last step is fabricating the new bezel.

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