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Thread: 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T ~ Infotainment System

  1. #1
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    1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T ~ Infotainment System

    Hello everyone! I'm new to all this so please bear with me.

    I've owned my car for just over 8 years now. I never really focused on the audio/video system as I was always concentrated on the motor and suspension. I swapped out my original motor for a RB26 after 2 years of owning my car. It was nothing but problem after problem after that.. they weren't lying when they said buying a used motor is risky. 9 months ago my car was dead in my yard waiting for me to save up and rebuild the motor as well as redo the audio system and attempt to install a PC for more functionality. A month ago I finally bought all the parts I needed for the motor and rebuilt it. Now it's time for the "infotainment" system. Next is the body&rims paint-job which should be around mid July.

    Parts are already ordered for my infotainment system and on their way... should be a few weeks since I live in South Korea. Below are some diagrams I built up for the new system. Also attached are some pics of my new rebuilt motor. Please don't mind my crappy paint shop editing lol I do that because I'm a visual thinker so I need to see the whole picture instead of writing it out.

    I think I made a big mistake with choosing the components for my infotainment system. I've done some research and thought they would work out pretty well since I'm not gaming or anything extremely taxing to a pc but now that I've joined mp3car and read up on other members builds.. I feel my PC choice was the wrong one (mainly because I don't see anyone else with it). I might have to rethink that part of my build. If there's any Pros out there reading my thread, I'm very open to suggestions. TIA! I did order the 1900 power regulator with the add-on extra rail so I don't think I'll have power issues.

    The functionality I want are: Bluetooth phone for android SG3, music, video (not really for movies but video clips), front/rear/interior cameras for recording track driving and security, ECU mapping for dyno/track weekends, GPS and TPS in the future.

    I think the GPS will be very hard for me to integrate into Centrafuse 4.0. I've tried looking for maps but can't get any type of hit on any search engines. Plus I see a lot of other members having problems with 4.0 maps.
    Last edited by chak8080; 05-30-2013 at 09:58 PM. Reason: removing pics

  2. #2
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    there's nothing really wrong with your pc choice, except the issue you will run into powering it in the car.

    you need a carpc power supply for the function of on/off when you start or shut off the car. if you don't mind turning on the computer and shutting it down manually, then you will be fine with that computer.

    cool car. good luck with your build. i'll be following.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Bertman. I did buy a CarNetix P1900 with P5V so hopefully that will handle my power requirements. I just received confirmation from the mp3car store yesterday that my LCD touch screen and CarNetix regulators just shipped so they should be here in a week or two at the most.

    I'm not sure if I want the PC to start with the car or not. It's probably risky not to have it start with the engine because if I forget to turn off the PC it could drain the battery. It'd be nice if I could have it both ways. Have the PC auto start with the engine and turn off with the engine but also have a button to manually start and stop the PC. I was planning on changing the "TV" button to "PC" on my screen display face for the manual PC power button. The "REV" will still be used for shift points.

    I was planning on painting all the pieces matte black but after seeing your STi pieces in antique metal.. it looks nice and clean. The black might show a lot of dirt/dust after a few months.

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    Does anyone know if my audio set up will be good or not? I read up on the forum and it seems like there's a split between using a external sound card vs line in. I'm not going for competition sound or anything like that.. but I would like a nice clean sound and the subs to hit good enough. Also, do I need a capacitor for the 4-channel amp or will it be fine without it? I ran the whole system before without any capacitors but that's why my battery keeps on dying and I had to replace my alternator for a better performance alternator.

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    i just read up on the power supply. it's very nice, i didn't know something like that existed (yet). i've been out of the carpc game since i installed mine 2 years ago, so i'm kind of lost with all this new stuff that makes carpc installs so much easier/efficient.
    it looks like that power supply will do the on/off just fine all by itself if configured properly. a nice bonus is the +5v so you can easily run a usb hub somewhere in the car, like i did in my glove box. it's very convenient to have.

    before my carpc i had painted my center console with black plastidip (matte rubber paint). it was so hard to keep clean im glad i changed it. the paint i used now sort of hides dust, but that doesn't matter too much for me as i [usually] clean my car every week.

    sorry i can't help you with your audio, i really know nothing about that stuff. i was running a 400w 4ch amp for the stock door speakers and an 700w amp for the sub. i had no cap, although i prob needed it.

  6. #6
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    Beautiful car, soo jealous you can even have a Skyline... (they're illegal here in the States, and a lot of people's have been seized by the stupid U.S. Gov't.)... Looks like a good build, you should be alright without a cap for the 4-channel amp, depending on how many watt's total you'll be pulling into all of your amps. Also, dependent on your alternator, if you upgraded to a hi-ouput alternator then you should be alright. Having a cap or two definitely won't hurt, only help though.

    Good luck with your build, can't wait to see the finished product!

  7. #7
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    are you going to be racing this car on the track? if u are id have to say thats a lot of extraweight if your going to be putting 3 amplifiers,a dual sub box ,plus more then likely ur going to be running 1 or 0 gauge wiring for the amps . u could easily add another 200 lbs to the car. in my opionion u could use one alpine 5 channel PDX-V9 and run Type-Rs in the door since they have cut down on weight on the new ones and they sound amazing .also i got a question about the easycar push button setup? how much something like that go for?

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    Thanks Diablo. I've done tons of research about importing skylines by actually writing to government agencies and calling them. I believe the people that were seized didn't do their homework and knew they were taking a risk by the way they imported their skylines and how they registered them. I've seriously done my homework and found that it's perfectly legal to import the older skylines (R31s-R34s) in Florida and Maryland.. probably some other states too but I wouldn't try California as it's probably the most difficult.

    In 2007 I spoke with the president of TSUMOCO (Tsunami Motor Company, Inc), Geoffrey Smith, and found that he's ex-US Army too and his company deals with importing all types of Japanese cars from Kobe Japan to Miami FL. He's been selling Skyline for years now. In 2007 the cost to import the R34 series was $12k which wasn't worth it for me. It's probably more now since gas prices are higher which makes shipping charges higher. I haven't contacted them since 2007 so I don't know if they're still in business or not. A friend of mine is currently in the US Army and in a month he's leaving Korea and getting stationed in Texas. He has a R33 GTS-T and he shipped it out to Texas last week. He's using a company in FL called Black Ops Performance (http://blackopsperformance.com/) and they currently import skylines for a bit cheaper but not much.. they also have some for sale now I think. Prices are about $13k more than you would pay to buy one in Japan so if you really wanted one and had the money you can buy it from them and have it perfectly legal, government approved. They use the original VIN that was used in Japan.. they don't make one up or register your skyline as a kit car which the guys who had theirs seized probably did. The cost for a R33 GT-R from B.O.P is $33k. In Japan an excellent condition R33 GT-R would cost up to $20k.

    Getting back on topic, I have a performance alternator installed.. added it when I rebuilt my engine last month. Went from 65 amps to 165 apms so now you got me thinking maybe I don't need caps at all. I haven't purchased any so maybe I shouldn't now. I'm running two 1000 watt mono class d amps (600w RMS each), one per sub. My subs are 1500 watts (600w RMS) each. I was going to upgrade to a 800 watt 4-channel amp for my internal speakers because currently I have a 380 watt 4-channel. I'm not shooting for a high performance audio system but I don't want a crappy system as well. Just something clean where I can still hear the subs thump over the engine and exhaust notes while on the highway or city. My battery was constantly dying and I though it was because I didn't have caps for the subs plus my weak alternator. But now I have a strong alternator and a new battery so maybe I'm good to go. I haven't hooked up any of my audio system yet.. I actually stripped everything out of my car including the center console dash pieces because I want to install everything at once just before I get my car repainted. I'm still in my engine break in period so I have about 2 weeks before I can hard tune my engine as well. I plan to tune my engine then install the infotainment/audio system then get it repainted to finish it off and ready to drive free. So I still have some time to rethink a few parts of my build. Thanks for the advice!
    Last edited by chak8080; 07-01-2012 at 05:56 AM.

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    Yes, I'll be racing on a track but never with all the audio in my trunk. I plan to build all the amps on a board that'll fit real snug but easy to disconnect the amps and remove in one piece on the board. The subs would be removed the same way. I spent way too much on my engine build to bog my times down with a cheap audio system. If it were legal to wear headphones while driving I'd do that lol.. get some nice speaker headphones and I'm set. Motorcyclist do it all the time.

    I just checked out that PDX-V9. I'd like to replace my 4-channel with that regardless if I had the money. It looks pretty nice, I like the color scheme and the specs are really tight. I just can't afford it now that my loot is already spent on other things for my car project. I'll keep my eye on the PDX-V9 though because I can probably upgrade to it later this year. I have just over $5k worth of new and used performance engine parts to sell on e-bay. I just need to find time to catalog it all and post it up to get the ball rolling.

    As I've mentioned before, I'm not really that knowledgeable about car audio. I bought my amps and subs back in 2004 and stuck with them ever since. I didn't know about audio back then either so I just bought all Pioneer to have it all matching lol. Now I've ready that Pioneer isn't even a leading car audio brand like Alpine. Basically I have two GM-510M amps which still seem to have good life in them (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-D510M), two TS-W1500SPL subs which actually still have life in them like they're brand new.. probably because I haven't loaded them correctly (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...RO/TS-W1500SPL), four 6.5 inch (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...Size/TS-D1602R) and a 380 watt 4-channel pioneer amp that's garbage really. I don't/didn't have any distribution blocks or fuses either... I know. Dangerous. I was using 8 gauge wires too. I just don't know about audio that much and since everything sounded decent I thought it was good to go until my batter kept dying for the last 4 years.

    I do want to get my audio system done the right way this time so I might consider using that amp as a base for my build.. is that the right thing to do? or should I choose speakers first and build around them? I'd really just like a system I can use with my car pc where I won't get interference... like going all digital/optical. I can't see using 1 or 0 gauge wires... that's really thick and heavy... and expensive! They won't even install 0 gauge wires here at Korean audio tuning shops unless you have a performance alternator. They don't want to be responsible frying your system or stock alternator. For this build I'm look at 4 gauge max as people are saying that would be good enough.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michae View Post
    ...also i got a question about the easycar push button setup? how much something like that go for?
    Bought it on e-bay for $398 with free shipping. I could have bought it in Korea since it's made in Korea but I didn't want a Korean language model. From what I've ready it's pretty nice. I mainly wanted it for the push start, super thin lcd 2-way pager and LF module technology where within 6-10ft of exiting your vehicle your vehicle locks and mirrors fold and when you come within 6-10ft of your vehicle it unlocks and mirrors fold out. just keep the pager in your pocket. the push start button doesn't require a key to be turned on first. push the button and ACC turns on. hold the brake and push the button then the engine starts and vise verse to turn off the engine. There's a window knock sensor that would page your lcd pager when someone knocks on it. also there's a led digital touch pad inside the window where you can punch in a code from the outside to unlock your vehicle. In Korea people are notorious for double parking so they used this window knock technology many years ago.

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