Yup, I constantly browse Amazon for the latest and greatest to compare products and I see brands like Coby still releasing tabs with resistive panels. One thing that made capacitive better was multi touch feature. Now though resistive screens have that option also (certain makes, via software). I know that Touch Kit has a Linux driver, one that is universal just like the Windows version. Just need a person that knows Android to adapt it from Linux to Android.
Originally Posted by jmullan99
OK, just a little FYI. My seup has slowed down a bit, only because of the touchscreen issue. Build wise everything is solid. Its nearly ready for the car. The touchscreen issue though is a top priority and dropping everything into the car, just to find out it will not work, is a big deal to me (and 100% of other people).
Here is what I am not understanding. Shouldnt it be easy to add touchscreen, especially since the MK802 and the SS808 are rooted?
While I personally am not an expert, I think it would be easy to add drivers. The question would be if the driver is compatible with the kernal they have on there. And getting the configuration file settings proper.
See my response to your other thread about drivers...
But also as far as the CAT5 wire stuff was concerned...
As far as wire goes you never use solid wire in a car because they bend back and forth when vibrating and will eventually break. Some CAT5 wire is stranded and this is fine for in the car.
As far as wire gauge goes, it is always best to use the same wire and if you cant get it to work to get a bigger wire but you CAN use more than one wire... But in order to double the size you have to use FOUR wires of the same gauge. Similar to pipes and liquid. This only deals with the amount of current that the cable is rated for however. If the wire is only rated for 5 volts then you should not go above 5 volts regardless.
Another issue with doubling up wires like this is that if you are depending on these and only one of the wires becomes disconnected then you now only have a portion of the current capacity that you think you do and the wires will burn up if the combined amount is gone over.
SO regardless, although you CAN do it, it is not generally a good idea and it is much better to go with a single wire rated more than you will ever use through that wire.
It SHOULD be simple to compile a new kernel for this setup and go from there but you are best to follow the links I gave in the other thread and go from there. If you have the right tools it should be easy but you will likely find someone there that can help you out.
Originally Posted by HiJackZX1
Well a lot has happened. The new system was finally bolted into the car. Most of the wiring for the rear is there, but not connected. As a started to take apart the fuse panel under the seat, I realized that I had done a really bad job at installing. With so many revisions to the system, I just kept installing method after method on top of each other. This resulted in chaos in me trying to figure out what is what. I mean everything from video to electrical was all mixed up. The only solution was to rip everything out and start from scratch. With 4 years of doing this, I went logical and simple routes. Now the fuse panel under the seat is new, and only has fuses that deal with the camera system. This includes front, cabin, rear, left and right cameras, black box recorder, digital quad processor (to combine cameras), and the screen that replaces my rear view and side mirrors. The only car PC related stuff that was added to that panel is the 19 inch flipdown (it was impossible to run without running a long useless cable run), the rear passenger screen (again didnt want a long cable run, and the dash screen (again didnt want a long cable run). Instead they are connected to a relay and triggered by a single wire that was existing and runs to the car PC. This fuse box sits in a plastic enclosure so nothing comes into contact with it.
All of the video wiring has been ripped out also. Anything that went to the doors, has been removed. I have decided to instead put cameras in the fenders, that way I dont have to worry about opening and closing and connections being broken. I will keep my side mirrors, only because the truck looks nasty without them. I may look for smaller ones, hopefully one with turn signal built in.
I have also started to put together outside styling. I bought new headlights that have the built in LED bar for daytime driving. All the newest cars have it, and I really didnt like the add on ones that people are doing. It looks tacky to me, so I managed to find a seller that makes the headlights exactly like the ones I am replacing, but with the LED bar built in and looking factory. LED tailights are also on the way. Next thing I plan to do is reorder the front bumper that was destroyed in the accident. I liked it alot, it made the truck look aggressive. Only difference is that I will have reinforcements made to have it sit correctly and not move. I am also ordering a push bar, which is the thing that cops use to force you off the road. Since this is an Urban Assault Vehicle, my truck shouldnt be without one. I also plan to add a light rack, like the police, but mine will be green and white, representing Android (as far as green is concerned). I then want to add the SP360 rear spoiler and rear bumper. Rims will be redone in gloss black, roof painted black, and maybe a few logos here and there. Now that I own the truck and make no more payments, this will all happen a lot faster.
As far as the Tobiathin Core (Android Rack), Once I get the video and front fuse box 100%, I will then work out wiring issues in the rear. There is tons of stuff that is no longer needed and needs to be stripped out. Once wiring is done, I will focus on getting the Windows 7 based PC up and running. This has to be first since it controls the power for screens, amps, and also acts as storage for media. The other functions also include a network shared GPS, which allows any of the Android devices to use since they do not come with a GPS chip. Originally I was going to use my phone to share the GPS, but its not accurate and is very unreliable connectivity wise. With the USB GPS, I have created a injector type cable that allows me to apply external power to the GPS puck so it is always on and always locked on satellites. That way when the Car PC comes on, there is no warm up. Other use for the Windows system is to take audio and convert it to 7.1 surround sound, which the truck had (one upgrade that worked) and I didnt want to loose. The Asus Xonar is amazing and upscales it to 7.1 very nicely. This system will also act as a handsfree bluetooth headset. A lot of the Android programs like Tablet Talk, require that you have a BT headset for handsfree talking. I obviously do not want to use a headset, so the PC will act as a giant speaker phone. The dialer will be on the Android tablet, and the speaker phone will pair with my phone (as instructed by Tablet Talk developers).
The whole dash will be redesigned. The current dash screen will stay there, but on top, the tablet will slide over it, creating a two screen area. Then wrapping around from the side of the tablet will be the screen for the cameras. With Dodge's current design, it wont work and will obstruct my view. So it has to be redone.
Hope all of this wasnt overload. I finally have a focus on what I want and how to easily achieve it. I wish I could post pictures, but its a huge pain in the @$$ with the way these forums do pictures. The old way was better. Maybe once I am done I will create a work log on my own site using blogger or something.
Wow quite the read and nice to see some focus. You have big plans but this one seems very achievable. Good luck, 1 thing you might want to check out before purchase is the green roof bar light might be reserved for volunteer fire fighters. In Canada it's that way not sure in the USA. SNO
Green and amber are used for public safety. So with me using Green and White, I am safe.
Originally Posted by SNOtwistR
So USB resistive touchscreen is recognised and works but the Up/Down is reversed?
This is just a matter of swapping 2 wires between the screen and the controller.
You will need to experiment a process of trial and error... dont sue me, but you wont break anything.
I have done this when trying to get replacement resistive touchscreens to work in generic tablets.
Here is the funny part. With Lilliput, it does that. Only my dash screen is Lilliput, so at least that screen has a simple fix. So switching the wires is no issue. Its my 6 other screens that do not work at all. They are the VM70 models. My guess is that they use a special or proprietary controller. The other issue, which affects all 7 screens, is that there is no way to calibrate the screens. Capacitive doesnt require that, but resistive does.
Originally Posted by T2000
On another note, I decided to start exterior mods. I have updated head lights to newer ones with LED bar built in (The latest in day time running safety). Have updated tail lights to LED version. Black housing, no silver..... Matches headlights. My rims didnt fit my design ideas, so off they go. I ordered four new Pro Comp rims Series 98 Rock Crawlers. Normally people use them for off roading with huge monster tires, I like them because on a standard tire, they look like Police rims. In fact they are made of the same thing, which is steel. I had to order 3 from one place 4wheelparts.com and the fourth from Summitracing.com. My truck has a awkward bolt pattern so rims are hard to get, or at least nice ones. These didnt break the bank either at $98.00 per rim. Next time I come across cash, I will get the front bumper and try to track down the rear bumper I want. Looks like 2013 (if the world doesnt end tomorrow) is the year for me and my truck. I am very excited.