Good idea, I did not think of that!
I'll test it this weekend when pull the old head unit out.
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You might want to make sure there's enough clearance between the things you are mounting on the side of the case and the mounting screws you are going to use to bolt the case in place inside the dashboard. Looks great so far, good luck!
My Project: All-in-one Double Din Unit
Gotta luv those F-Bodys!!!!
Fantastic job so far rray.
Well thought out for sure.
I had a '67 Mustang in high school, and always wanted a '69 Camaro, but they were just too rare to aquire. Then the came out with the 2010 Camaro, and it looked enough like the 69 that I had to have one. Saved my shekels and got the '12 this year, and started working on the sound system, and now I need a car pc to bring it to the next level!
Great job so far!!!
1. Did you saw the datasheet of the mobo: it's passively cooled in property ventilated box
Here is a screenshot of the datasheet:
Just mention, you know
2. Other thing that is not wrote in the datasheet is that the chip of Intel video accelerator should be cooled too. Passive cooling of course, but Intel didn't put a heat-sink there, so it's god Idea to do that. I had problem with this. When that chip was hot and I restart the PC, it refuses to start. When I placed a fan above it now the mobo starts every time proper. Tha fan is there temporary, I plan to place a heat-sink but i'm still searching for the proper one.
I saw a video in youtube where a guy has put heat sing there, too. click
Off topic: Have you ever been able to enter the PC in S3 state? (Suspend to RAM - Instantly available PC technology) I'm with XP Pro SP3, installed the AHCI drivers, but I didn't found how to tell the PC i wont it to enter S3 state.
That's good info Volvo. You got me scared of overheating, so I tested the airflow with a cigarette on mine, and if I hold it in the lower front of the screen, the smoke sucks in to the case, then out the back.
Also the sides suck in, and again out the back. It does not match the heat sink fins, but does have an airflow draw.
As far as the graphics chip, I am using windows 7 64 bit, and there are no drivers available, so no hardware acceleration at all. I don't think my graphics chip can get hot unless it is being used. I have no graphics acceleration solution so far.
Meanwhile I purchased an ODAC for line out sound. According to the specs it should be able to drive line out at 2V, and has exceptional sound transparancy:
I am having issues with the programable buttons on my case. It seems all the buttons are mapped incorrectly, so if I program volume up, I get next track, and if I program mute, I get previous track. Also if I program Blue buttons, I get Green, etc.
Well, I never got around to much, because I tried to play solitaire through Driveline, and discovered that I can't play without graphics hardware acceleration.
So that started the driver grief again. There are no windows 7 64 bit drivers for Cedar Trail processors, and NEVER will be, is all I can find.
I had just recently purchased Windows 7 64bit OS for this project, and decided to upgrade to windows 8 32bit. I purchased the upgrade online from Microsoft today, and downloaded it to my main Win 7-64 bit computer, using the "install by creating media" to make a bootable USB drive, but that made it by default a 64 bit download.
So how do I get the 32 bit version? I can only install my graphics drivers on the 32 bit version.
Well I ran the upgrade wizard again on my old netbook with windows XP, using the product key I purchased today. It downloaded the software to a folder called "ESD" on the netbook's C: drive, so I copied everything from that folder, overwriting the 64 bit version on my bootable USB drive, and I was then able to load Windows 8 Pro 32bit.
1) The 25 digit key code you get from purchasing the upgrade can be used to upgrade any single computer.
2) If you want the 32 bit version, you must perform the upgrade download on a 32 bit OS machine.
3) If you want the 64 bit version, you must perform the upgrade download on a 64 bit OS machine.
4) Use the "install by creating media" selection after download, and make your Bootable DVD or USB meda.
I used the fresh install instead of the update your current install method, and I now have a 32 bit OS installed. So I was able to load my graphics drivers, but I don't know much about windows 8 yet.
Last edited by rray; 11-11-2012 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Spelling and Clarification
I was able to load all the motherboard drivers for windows 7 32 bit into windows 8, but the dual band + bluetooth WIFI card driver balks at the bluetooth 4 driver. The WIFI part works. It's always something.
I though I might like the windows Metro Apps, but they fail, requiring 1024x768 resolution, and my 800x480 screen is set to 800x600. When I set it to 1024x768 the test is distorted and too hard to read. So now I have to figure out how to delete all that "Fluff" since it's unusable.
I was happy to find the Driveline front end works with windows 8.
Why are you breaking you head into the wall with win8? Isn't it easyer to install win7 32bit? Why - because there are alot of compatible software for win7. Many hacks and advises of common problems are avaible just in the first 2-3 results in google.
Using win8 you'll be one of "the beta testers", you know. There will always be sooooomething not working just right it should.
I would have to pay another $100 to get win7-32 but win8-32 upgrade was only $15, and for the most part it can be configured to windows 7 mode. I just hate throwing away more money to MS because the won't exchange licenses from 64 bit to 32 bit for OEM copies.
I have been researching it more and found there is a registry tweek to allow Metra apps to open on a lower res screen, so I'm going to play with that some tonight.
I still have my Android head unit working for now so am not without a carputer while I sort out all this fun stuff.
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