Working 60-70 hours a week at the day job, I have found little tome to make much progress, but I have made some.
I got 4 of the left side buttons programmed. I relocated them, placing the up and down arrow just under the power button. What happened is my button board was built upside down, and although I requested a schematic, I have not received any yet. So I am able to map the inner 4 buttons by programming #2 in #5's table and #3 in #4's table. The bottom button was the volume down button, and cannot program it because it's mapped to the power button which is un-programmable. Button swapping was the only solution till replacement button boards become available.
So, I am using Driveline, and have volume up, down, mute, and escape programmed into the left buttons now.
Moving on the the GPS, I installed the driver, and it works in Dirveline. No brainer there.
Windows 8 sucks, just plain sucks. I have to configure my screen to 1024 x 768 for the apps to work. I can barely read the screen, but when in Driveline, all is good again. I played a game of Spider Solitaire, and noticed my graphics controller chip is hot.
I temporarily used some 3M MP768 Transfer Adhesive to glue a heatsink on the graphics chip for now, but am ordering some heatsink cement to affix it vibration free. Surprising how much heat that sink pulls off.
I got an antenna to test the radio with, but can only pull in AM stations, but it functions, so hopefully it will work better in my car with it's amplified antenna.
Next steps is to design a mount for the USB Hub (moving it to the other side of the box to make room for the radio antenna case mount I installed.), USB ODAC, and USB Steering Wheel Control board.
Dude, for high quality audio you should play FLAC files.
Example *.JPG is high compression image extension. *.TIFF is no compression extension.
it's the same with audio *.MP3 is hight compression while *.FLAC is no compression. *.WAV is somewhere in the middle.
I am using only flac files and the audio difference is very strong...
I spent the past few days researching, then converting my CD's to FLAC files. As it turns out they sound the same as CDDA (wav) files to my ears, but are slightly smaller file size. I do however notice a difference between FLAC and 320 bit MP3 files. I have 40GB of FLAC files now, so it looks like I need to get an external drive or a large SD card.
Thanks for the tips guys, FLAC is the way to go for me.
Would you mind sharing a file size comparison of a song in MP3 320-bit form and in FLAC, and also include the length of the track? I'm kind of curious as to how much larger these FLAC files are. And stupid question, only because I don't know anything about audio processing, but why can't all other media types be played in high quality sound with your setup?
Here is an example I just listened to. Sirenia's Save Me From Myself is 4:14 minutes and 9.78MB for a 320kbps file, where the FLAC counterpart is 26.66MB for an 858kbps file.
The other media can be played in high quality too, and sound as good as the recording was made to sound, however it's like hooking up a cd player and a cassette tape deck to a home stereo, where the sound from the CD would sound better than the tape recording.
I found this funky 4 port usb hub in my junk box and took it apart to discover it is perfect for mounting to the touch screen, left panel buttons, right panel usb port and right panel SD card slot. Each one of those devices needs a USB port of it's own, but that takes 4 internal ports. I wired up 2 ports worth (1 header) of black (gnd) and red (+5v) to the hub, and now I have all 4 of those devices on 1 motherboard header. Then I mounted the ODAC to it's own USB header.
Here is the ODAC mounted and connected to RCA jacks. I am listening at the time of this post to some music played from the ODAC, and I am very pleased with it's sound quality.
Thanks Robert! Wow, that is a truly huge file size for a 4+ minute song! I guess I'd have to see how much better a FLAC file sounds with my setup before I decide to go get a 10 terabyte external drive so I can keep a few digital albums in the car
Been keeping an eye on your build, looks like it's coming along well! Once you get all your kinks worked out and and get some final pictures/videos of the unit working properly I think I'm going to jump on this same unit. Been looking at some nice Pentium mini-ITX motherboards already
Keep up the good work!
I went to a show at the fairgrounds last weekend, and brought my carputer project to display, while hanging out with the guys.
There was lots of interest, and I got to do a burn-in sort of, running it for 8 hours a day 2 days without incident. Had a random reboot while trying to connect to wifi, but everything else was good.
The HD radio was working, although I was only able to get 1 FM HD station and 1 AM HD Station inside the building. Lots of analog stations came in fine though.
So today while home sick from work, I took some pictures of inside of the case before closing it up.
I had taken out the larger USB hub, and wired in a smaller 4 port hub last week, and used the old hub's spot for mounting the Joycon Steering Wheel Control. It's just above the DC to DC converter at the bottom right of this picture:
Here is the view of everything inside. The HD Radio is mounted on standoffs on the lid, and has a noise filter (black box) dangling from it.
Here is a view of the left side of the box, where the 4 port USB Hub is wired in(blue heat shrinked device top left), and the ODAC, (green board top right) are shown. All the black wires on the left are USB cables, 6 USB devices inside:
Here is the inside back panel. Left to Right, is the fan, 2 DIN Connectors, RCA Audio Out, and HD Radio Antenna Jack. I mounted two 8 pin DIN connectors through what was the USB holes in the case. The right DIN has all the power, ground, and ignition sense lines on it, and the left DIN has the Joycon, Backup Camera, and Aux 2 Composite Video Input. Where the wiring forms a "Y" I added a heatsink to the motherboard's graphics chip:
And here is the case all closed up, showing the rear panel connections. The 2 blue items are SMA antenna's, one for internal bluetooth, and one for wifi. I also have 2 other dongles connected, one for my wireless keyboard, and one is a Blue Soleil compatible bluetooth dongle, because there is no bluetooth support provided by intel for the internal bluetooth. Intel generally sucks, when it comes to supporting the hardware they manufacture, they want the OEM's to do all the driver writing for their products.
Here is the original rear of the case for comparison:
So, 6 weeks into it, it's time to reflect back, and list the hardware and software for the project so far:
01) $235 Derrick's DDIN HDMI Case kit Samsung Touchscreen w/USB buttons
02) $100 Intel DN2800MT Atom Motherboard
03) $35 Intel Intel 6235 dual band ABGN + Bluetooth 4 mini PCI-E card
04) $65 Toshiba mini SATA II 64GB SSD
05) $20 Hynix HMT125S6TFR8C-G7 2x2GB DDR3-1066 SO-DIMMs
06) $40 Joycon EXR USB Programable Steering Wheel Interface
07) $60 PWR-034 DCDC-USB intelligent DC-DC converter
08) $13 NoiseBlocker Fan XM2 40x10mm Silent Fan
09) $5 Apple Mini SMA WIFI and BT Antennas
10) $74 Directed HD Radio connected through RS232 interface
11) $10 Four port no-name usb hub
12) $100 ObjectiveDAC (ODAC) digital to analog convertor for high quality sound
13) $40 BU-353-S4 USB GPS receiver
14) $100 Misc hardware, connectors, tools, cables, shrink wrap, etc.
15) $90 Windows 7 home premium 64bit OEM
16) $15 Windows 8 pro 32bit upgrade (32bit due to lack of intel 64 bit drivers)
17) $28 Blue Soleil Bluetooth Driver Stack
18) $30 Microsoft Streets and Trips 2013
19) $25 Small donation to an awesome Front End developer for sharing his work
So I guess I'm into the game about $1100, thinking I was only in $500? How did that happen? Oh well, it's been fun and educational so far.
Next steps are installing the streets and trips software, playing with the front end, and setting up the Joycon before installing in the car.