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Thread: 2012 Camaro In Dash PC Project

  1. #81
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    ClockWorK's Avatar
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    Nevermind. I don't have to change anything. Looks like you just need to open up the Skin_SkinVars.XML file and look for this value:
    skin_clrBtnBak

    Change
    255,0,0,0
    to
    0,0,0,0

  2. #82
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    Great Project I enjoyed reading through your log.

    How do you like the MS-8? any issues at all?
    I really didn't care for the MS-8 remote and inquired with JBL on converting the connection to something that my carPC could understand, they were of very little help, so I choose Rockford for the smaller remote. One thing you need to know about the 3sixty if you are thinking about it, the wired remote will not function with USB connected, the software is not touch friendly, I am currently on my third unit! (First Remote no work, second worked for 5 mos died last week and 3rd remote no work).
    I am really thinking about the MS-8!

  3. #83
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    I got my MS-8 about a month before the three.sixty.3 came out, but I am really happy with the MS-8, so won't upgrade unless something happens to it.

    The feature I like the best is the automatic time alignment tuning. The logic7 mode sounds great, creating an excellent soundstage with great separation, like I have never heard before.

    To be fair, it's my first venture into audiophile sound quality though.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

  4. #84
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    Oh, one more note... I used to play with the head unit's eq all the time with other systems, however I found the only thing I ever adjust now is volume control. All the sound setting are great with all my music after the automatic tune procedure.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

  5. #85
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    A very nice buildup. One question; how did you deal with the audio that is normally routed into the factory head unit. I am wanting to do something similar with my 2004 Chevy Trailblazer, but since mine has OnStar (which I don't use) and the Driver Information Center installed, I am not sure how to proceed with converting it to a custom audio system.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by daywalker03 View Post
    A very nice buildup. One question; how did you deal with the audio that is normally routed into the factory head unit. I am wanting to do something similar with my 2004 Chevy Trailblazer, but since mine has OnStar (which I don't use) and the Driver Information Center installed, I am not sure how to proceed with converting it to a custom audio system.
    If you want to plug your PC's audio into your head-unit but you don't have an aux-in on the head-unit, try:
    http://www.pac-audio.com/

    I use one of their components to plug my PC audio into my 2004 Grand Prix stock head-unit. That way, steering wheel controls still work, on-star, etc.

  7. #87
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    I used the Metra Onstar Retention Module. PAC, Axxes, and Scosche also make them for aftermarket radio installs.

    Here is the Axxes kit at Amazon:

    Name:  51JnB9nVNcL.jpg
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    You can see it has all the key connections to retain steering wheel controls, generate door and seatbelt chimes, and volume control for Onstar to factory speakers. What I did was leave 1 speaker under the dash wired to the factory left speaker for onstar, seatbelt, and door chime. Then that 3.5mm plug connected to the JoyConEXR for steering wheel controls, and I used the DAC for audio out instead of the headphone out on my motherboard. My board don't have dedicated line out, just headphone and microphone, so I used microphone for the HD Radio input.

  8. #88
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    Today I Laser Cut some acrylic for LED Light Bar's to illuminate footwells. When I bought the Camaro, one of the cool options available was Blue or Red illuminated cup holders and illuminated footwells. At first I said YES, but the salesman said $553, and I said the Sales Tax Alone cost far more than a couple LED's. Since then the price has dropped to a meager $430, but still TOO much.

    So I purchased some flexible LED strip, and cut up some acrylic to make light bars. Here is a video of the laser cutting the acrylic:



    Here I am assembling them:



    What I did was cut a hollow out of a strip, then glue 2 strips as spacers, insert the LED strip material and wires, then glue a top piece on. After that I wrapped black electrical tape on the sides and back, then coarse sanded the front to diffuse the light some.



    Next I current tested the strips, each consisting of 2 LED bars. I measured about 133mA.


    I mounted the front footwell light bars under the dash easily enough, but for the back I mounted them on the carpet just under the overhang of the rear seat. I had to cut the carpet with an exacto razor knifr, then fish needle nose pliers through to grab a Ty-wrap:


    That method seemed to work pretty easy to mount the rear bars.


    I finished the day assembling the Phidget Power Distribution Box, also laser cut acrylic. I mounted +12v and Ground terminal strips with jumpers to make bus bars out of them, and installed a 5A push to reset breaker:


    The Phidget gets glued to the left side, then I can wire up my footwell lights tomorrow morning.

  9. #89
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    This morning I wired in the Phidget, and tested the light bars under Phidget control OK.





  10. #90
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Looking good rray! Did I see an umbrella corp logo in the mix? ;-)
    Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

    AutoPC v1 (Retired) - AutoPC v2 (in progress) - www.shocknet.us

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