Very nice, you are well underway getting that hardware together. Good luck SNO
I have been watching peoples builds here for months, and am ready to build my own car PC. I currently have an Android head unit but want to replace it due to it's terrible sound and 80 second boot and long front end initialization time.
So after searching dozens of topics here, and reading hundreds of posts, I have ordered the following items to start with, all from ebay sellers because of the shopping convenience and selection of items.
Derrick's DDIN HDMI Case kit w/buttons (arrived yesterday, but still need drivers and diagrams) ebay item 110966372323
Intel DN2800MTE Atom mobo because it's "Fast Boot" and low profile even after being populated with RAM, SSD, and WIFI. ebay item 400282149972
Intel 6235 dual band ABGN and Bluetooth 4 mini PCI-E card ebay item 280986615036
Mini PCI Antenna's ebay item 200823987601
Toshiba mini SATA II 64GB SSD fast and cheap, ebay item 110965824315
Hynix HMT125S6TFR8C-G7 2x2GB DDR3-1066 SO-DIMM's (tested mobo compatible list) ebay item 170920996466
Here is the project car, a 2012 Camaro 1LT:
Here is the old Android unit to be replaced:
Test fit the new display in the Metra Dash kit opening ok. Will have to fabricate a new bezel.
Here is the Amps, Cap, and Sound Processor behind the seat:
Here are the shallow depth subs in the trunk:
I still need to order a bunch of hardware like standoffs, cables, connectors for the headers, etc. Will update as I go.
Last edited by rray; 11-17-2012 at 04:58 PM. Reason: content
Watching this thread.
You seem to be off to a great start.
Keep the updates coming.
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html
I had originally thought I was going to power the Intel DN2800MTE off the battery, and power the screen off the provided SATA Drive Power cable (I don't need SATA power since I'm using the mini SATA II 64GB SSD plugged into a mini PCI-E slot), but was not totaly sure, so I read more about power supplies on the forum.
I decided I wanted the smart function options, so selected a DC to DC converter that I should be able to mount inside the DDIN case.
So with that research done, I ordered some other items:
Joycon EXR USB Programable Steering Wheel Interface ebay item 200570124954 (mainly for volume up and down, and song advance)
Dual USB 2.0 Ports Full-Height Header Bracket Cable ebay item 190508062612 (need the cables and header sockets for the touchscreen)
18" HDMI Flat Cable ebay item 110957976136
HDMI 270 Degree Right Angle Adapter ebay item 370653011781 (the location of the mobo's HDMI port makes this an ugly neccessity)
NoiseBlocker Fan XM2 40x10mm Silent Fan ebay item 130542698378 (case fan )
DCDC-USB intelligent DC-DC converter to split between the screen and the motherboard. (I added up 90W total if everything, mobo, screen, wifi, bluetooth, SSD, RAM, and 8 USB's are on) Product Code: PWR-034 from mp3car.com
BU-353-S4 USB GPS receiver Product Code: GPS-004 from mp3car.com
I still need to decide if I want to go Windows 7 or dare Windows 8, and decide on a front end. Lots more research to do.
I decided on Windows 7 home premium 64 bit, so ordered a copy from Amazon.
The motherboard and Joycon came yesterday. Waiting on all the rest of the stuff that fits on the motherboard before starting assembly.
Last edited by Larry49; 10-24-2012 at 07:32 AM.
Interesting. I like where this is headed.
Well.. any progress is some progress.
Yesterday I received the RAM, and the power brick for testing, and today I received the WIFI/Bluetooth module, and the Windows 7 DVD. I will try to convert the DVD to a USB bootable image tonight.
I mounted the WIFI module, and made up a single female to dual male barrel connector for powering up the screen and motherboard, connected an HDMI cable, and a keyboard, and entered BIOS. Not much else I can do without the SSD.
The motherboard rear blanking panel cannot be installed without cutting the left side inner flange off because the opening on the left side of the case is flush with the left side panel itself. I'll take some tin snips to it when I get my permanent HDMI cable and 90 degree adapter in, because I will also have to cut a slot out to the top of the blanking panel for the HDMI cable to get back in the case.
Results so far:
Have you tried test-fitting it into your car? I remember that a lot of users had trouble with BlackBox-ITX because it was too long (depth-wise). This case looks to be a little more shallow since the screen enclosure is considerably smaller.
My Project: All-in-one Double Din Unit