I'm making some tests now, but all the posted (and even more) pictures could be found in better quality in my gallery here
There are sub galleries of any sub projects I'm working now, or I'm done with.
Fell free to check for new stuff there, because sometimes I upload pictures, but I'm writing the post with explanations a couple of days latter. Other thing: there is similar threats listed in Bulgarian CarPC forum and in VOLVO Club Bulgaria's forum.
There you could find some of my first ideas.
I was planning to make my own mechanism for the LCD. I've made a full scale model of the dashboard, so I could easily work without damaging the car and more and more. But all this is past. Here I'm showing you mostly the last idea. But who knows - every "last" idea could become penultimate, you now
I'll keep you informed as soon as I got some new stuff.
I've ordered a PSU for my mobo:
Module Properties: non-isolated step-up module (BOOST)
Input voltage :10-32V
Output voltage: 12-35V (adjustable)
Output Current: 10A (MAX)
Input Current: 16A (MAX) (more than 10A, please enhance heat dissipation)
Output power: natural cooling 100W (MAX), to enhance heat dissipation 150W (MAX) real power
Conversion efficiency: 94% typical (for reference only)
Output Ripple: 2% (MAX) 20M-bandwidth
Operating temperature: Industrial grade (-40 ℃ to +85 ℃) (ambient temperature exceeds 40 degrees, lower power use, or to enhance heat dissipation)
Full load temperature rise: 45 ℃
No-load current: 25mA typical
Load regulation: ± 0.5%
Voltage regulation rate: ± 0.5%
Dynamic response speed: 5% 200uS
Short circuit protection: None (Please enter the installation of fuses or protection circuits)
Enter the reverse protection: No
Wiring: free solder, terminals
I plan to set it to 16V as DN2800MT is working on 9-19V DC. I'll be 3 volts bellow the maximum and 1.5vots above the car's max (14.5). This way I think I'll be fine.
What do you think?
Other ordered stuff:
Two USB HUBs. You all know these - they are very popular:
High-Speed USB 7-Port HUB Powered
And two PSUs for them:
Double-sided wiring, at the bottom of a large area of copper to ensure excellent heat! Rated long-term expansion in the 2A, maximum output power to 20W, and more convenient plus the radiator output more power!
Adjustable Output 1.25-26V (input voltage greater than the output voltage)
Clockwise adjust the on-board potentiometer output voltage to increase, counterclockwise adjustment potentiometer output decreased.
They are rated to 2A, but the hub's need just 1, so i got an one amp extra for each.
Why i need two hubs - because the PC will be in the trunk. In the centre console I'll place the first hub (3 metres cable to PC). To him I'll plug an Bluetooth dongle and the connection for the second Hub. My GPS is Bluetooth and is powered by 5 volts, so it will sit there too - close to the Bluetooth dongle and powered by the hubs PSU in the same manner I power the whole system (ohhh powering - i got a lot of things to write about that ... manual, auto, allays on ... PIC controller (made by friend) and many more, but all this - latter)
After that will be the next hub, connected to the first in roll. I guess there the cable will be max 2 metres. There will be connected the touch panel, the Sony HID Remote (He-he) and some fabricated in the dash ports + a card reader maybe, who knows ... This will be the main hub. The first one I place just to ensure proper strength of the signal avoiding cables wilder than 3 metres. I know that theoretical I could use max 5 metre usb cable, but there will be a lot of devices connected there and it's possible to have problems with connectivity. Secure way is better way according to me.
Tell me your opinion. Thanks.