Walter, I'll probably be doing a number of connections both ways between the tablet and the pc for various reasons. Sometimes the tablet will be an input device for the computer (especially cool in tailgating situations) whereas sometimes the tablet will just be another display device (such as when watching movies in the truck so the people in the back seat can get a better view.)
But this project is derailed yet again now as my alternator just went out. I may take this opportunity to replace it with a higher output one, and upgrade all the cabling at the same time. I bought 2 new batteries to get me home, with the intent I might return them if that didn't prove to be the problem. However I think I'm just going to keep them and use the 2 older batteries to run a seperate electronics circuit with a diode between the main batteries. This way I can run my stereo/pc as long as I want without the fear of getting stranded somewhere. I'll probably put them under the bed somewhere on the frame, but I haven't decided exactly where yet. I'd like to keep it close to the rear seats so I can run the shortest wire possible to the amps/inverter.
Just a quick update, I did end up putting in a higher output alternator. 200 amps. Hopefully this along with 2 more batteries will give me all the power I need to run everything.
Haven't done much more in terms of the truckputer, but I did get a micro-atx computer from a friend. I also got some new front and rear speakers, hopefully I'll get a chance to install those in the next few days.
Going to start looking for a spare dash bezel so I can start moulding a screen in. I plan to extend the dash upwards a few inches to make room for a larger screen. By doing this I'll also make room for a row of guage pods above the instrument panel. We'll see how that goes though, I definitely have some learning to do on the fiberglass front.
SS, having extensively customized one Superduty (2000 Dually) already and seen the wiring degrade over the last 13 years since I did it... Might I point you towards http://genuinedealz.com/ . They specialize in Marine wiring products... much more durable.
I am getting ready to do a build on a new 2013 F350 Dually flatbead - plan to start in the next couple months. I have been stocking up on lots of Marine grade wire, Mil-Spec double walled heat shrink tubing, and assorted connectors so I don't have to fight with connection issues later.
This was the 2000 F350 as it looked in 2000. It is showing it's age now ;-)
Right on, that truck looks sick. I'd love to have a flatbed if it weren't for the fact you get harassed by highway patrol here for that and asked if you're a commercial driver.
Thanks for the advice on the wiring, I do plan to keep this truck until the foreseeable forever, so doing whatever to ensure its longevity is worth it to me. I also will be doing a lot of wiring in and out of the cab, so id rather do that only once.
I think one of the next things I'll be doing is getting the roof rack setup. I may have to go the route of fabricating some mounts because so far everything I've seen raises the rack 4" or so higher and I'm not happy with that for clearance and aerodynamic reasons.
Please take as many pictures of your 2013 build, I'll be interested in seeing what you do.
There will be pictures for sure. The new truck isn't ordered yet so it will be a while.
The big holdup right now is that I need to fix some rust holes on the bed of the 2000 (think "trade-in value")and without a garage that is hard to do when the highs are in the 30's and lows in the 20's...
SierraStroker.... I just posted a picture of the beginnings of the battery isolator, power distribution box that will go in my soon to be ordered 2013 (see my build thread). I thought maybe you might be interested in it with your discussion about adding additional batteries.
Also, you were talking about switching to '05 headlights. Before you do that, let me ask... do you currently have composite headlights or sealed beams? If you have sealed beams, before you go switching to composites and ruining a good thing, looks at the Hella EU sealed beam replacement bulb housings. They fit right in where the rectangular sealed beams go, but they take a replaceable halogen bulb. There are two good things about these lamp housings. The first one is that they will accept a 55/100 watt bulb in place of the more legal 55/65 watt bulb. The second cool thing is the European headlight pattern. They come in both right hand drive and left hand drive versions. Make sure you get the ones made for use in countries where the steering wheel is on the left and the cars drive on the right. With these housings, when on low beam, you will get a dead sharp cutoff right at horizontal going from the left to the center of the beam pattern, and then the cutoff slants upwards at a 5 degree slope as the pattern continues to the right. They are really bright (even on low beam) but they wont annoy oncoming cars at all.
O Ya, if you switch to a 55/100 watt bulb, add headlight relays as well so you don't melt your headlight wiring. I wound up using 100 amp relays for my headlight relays... 13 years on then and they still work just fine :-)
Sweet, thanks for all the great advice. However, as you can tell this thread has been pretty dead. But I'm alive...
Now for the bad news:
She got totaled while parked on the street in front of my house :(:(:(
So I haven't really had any desire to get on mp3car lately. But...
Now for the good news:
Just bought her
03 7.3l with 07 front clip and bumpers, six-speed of course
So maybe the superdutypc can be born afterall.
Another silver lining to all this is I'll end up with another complete drivetrain (7.3 + zf6) to put away for a rainy day, not to mention whatever other parts I'll save from the salvage. I figure since the total and salvage price are only $2k apart, its well worth keeping considering there are still a lot of good parts on the 99.
In other news, I've been driving a 2.7 twin turbo six-speed a6 lately. Now that I have a second vehicle again, its about to get some nice upgrades and a pc of its own, when I get the time to tear into it that is..
Great news...sort of I guess, after the bad news first. Nice looking truck, let the upgrades begin!
Bummer it was totaled but glad you did not experience that from inside.
Curious what could have hit it that would have totaled it while it was parked?
It wasn't a Geo Metro I assume?
I've got a custom made rear bumper on mine made from 1/2" thick steel plate. I also bolted a couple of 8 " thick rubber bumpers on the steel plate.
My last truck had a similar setup. It was rear ended 3 times total. The cost to repair it amounted to the cost of a can of black epoxy spray-paint as all that happened was the paint got chipped a bit.