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Thread: 2013 F350 Supercab Dually Flatbed

  1. #81
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    I got some replacement cables last night but got sidetracked.. I will try them tonight.

    I had also ordered some 90 degree HDMI adapters so that I can possibly route wires in a manner that will allow me to strain relief them. I ordered them on Sunday with 3 day shipping from Newegg. Total cost for 2 adapters with shipping was 26 bucks, which is about 10X what I could have paid on ebay from China if I was in no rush.

    So, yesterday (day three) I watch the UPS truck go by without stopping. I check the tracking number and realize that NewEgg's thrid party vendor hasn't even shipped them yet. My guess is that they ordered some on ebay for 1/10th what I was paying them and would ship them to me using 3 day shipping when they arrived in a month.

    So I am a bit p.o.'ed.

    I call Newegg... sort of kept my calm, and explained the whole deal to the girl that answered the phone.

    After about 45 minutes of her keeping putting my on hold to check on things with various people she emails me a link to Amazon.com . There is the same connector with a really expensive 1 day shipping option. She tells me to order it from there, select the 1 day shipping option, and that Newegg will Paypal me the difference in cost. A bit hesitant, but I place the order. She asks me what the grand total is, and a few minutes later I get a Paypal account transaction for the difference.

    I just checked the UPS tracking number and the parts are "out for delivery".

    While Newegg screwed up, I was impressed that they took responsibility for the problem and fixed it at their expense.

    Rick

  2. #82
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    That is an interesting way on NewEgg's part to resolve this but I'm impressed!
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  3. #83
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    Getting frustrated... I have 4 of the HDMI to HDMI+USB cables (besides the first one that I thought was bad).

    None of them work. None of them cause my PC to recognize the USB cable... no touch screen capability.

    The Crappy HDMI to DVI+USB cable that shorts out if I bend it slightly provides touch screen capability. When I plug in the USB end of it, it sees it and all is good (until I wiggle the DVI end a bit and it shorts out my motherboard of course)

    None of this is making any sense to me at all. It's like the HDMI to HDMI + USB cables aren't wired right for use with this monitor?

    I am totally confused now.

    Rick

  4. #84
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    Beer helps I guess...

    After many of them, and many random things, the touch screen was recognized by Windows and is now working. I am not 100% sure why that happened.

    I got a nice 90 degree USB and HDMI connector from Amazon today for the PC end... I think it will allow me to stress relieve things nicely.

    This is frustrating in general. I am not one to give up easily, but it is starting to get to me. Automotive space is tight, so checking things and making changes is sort of a PITA. I have spent more time making things more removable and strain relieving things than any other part of this project...

    I was just about to heave the whole thing but then I guess it sensed that it was pushing me to the limit and magically started to work.

    On to the next thing I guess....

    Rick

  5. #85
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    Next problem... weird how they follow one after the other...

    PC wants to stay in sleep mode all of a sudden. White light on the box is slowly flashing and it isn't running... I looked at my posted pictures to see where I connected the white light, and I looked in the manual... flashing is sleep mode..

    I need to open it up and see exactly how I configured the M2 power supply.

    It might be some setting in BIOS that is conflicting with some setting on the P/S.

    I am not sure I have any reason to use sleep mode, so I think I need to deactivate it before it pi%$s me off much more.

    Rick

  6. #86
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    I got it to boot (for a while). It is not set up to hibernate... then it suddenly did a "Windows is shutting down" and it wont come back up... staying in the "flashing light" mode.

    There is a chance that I have been running it so long with the engine off that the auxiliary battery is a bit low. That might make the M2 power supply do what it is doing. I am hoping that is what is causing the latest stupid problem.

  7. #87
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Very good possibility on the low battery. I always find setting power supply to dumb mode or standard atx type settings and then go from there adding you timers and such with the jumpers. And bios settings are another good place to find problems with hdmi and power saving Good luck SNO

  8. #88
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    I looked thru my notes, and also looked at my pictures. I left all the jumpers out (dumb mode). I am using the "IGN" wire. In that mode, hooked up that way, weird things can happen I think.

    Per the manual, I am not quite sure how to get it to reboot if it shut down for some reason without killing power to the IGN wire (which is difficult the way I have it set up. Power is normally killed to the IGN wire after a time delay provided by the Anderson power control module

    I measured the battery voltage... 12.6V at the battery, which seams reasonable. I am not quite sure what it is by the time it reaches the PC though. I did make some measurements (hard to get the meter leads into the connector) and I was a bit surprised to see it reading in the mid 11's, and that was with the puter unplugged. At first I assumed that I just want getting a good connection with my leads but now I am not so sure. I am not sure where the voltage drops are happening. I am using big-assed wire everywhere. All the radio equipment runs off the same #8 wire as the puter, broken out into separate #12's to power everything for the last foot or so, but in receive mode the radios only draw about an amp. I will have to figure that out as it just doesn't seem right but milliohms do add up in a 12 volt system. There is a 40 amp relay in the picture as well.... a few more milliohms.

    The last time "Windows Shut Down" before I gave up for the night was seconds after I plugged my 4 watt USB wifi module into the puter. That draws about an extra 1/2-3/4 amp I suspect.... which I guess would have dragged things down a bit more,


    I threw my charger on it for the night anyway. It was accepting 3 amps... not dead... not fully charged either.

    Tomorrow I will put it in mode 1 (factory recommended mode) and see what happens. Per the manual, it might work better. I am not sure, but I think that deactivates the low battery feature. I am taking care of that with the Anderson module anyway, so no need to put a second variable in there.

    It will be nice if this all comes together. I have yet to have it all working all at once with all the covers on... frustrating.
    Last edited by Rickk; 07-25-2014 at 09:31 PM.

  9. #89
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    Got up at sunrise (6-ish) and continued. I cleaned up some wiring that was annoying me every time I pulled the console out... to make things a bit less aggravating.

    Then I set out to figure out why the puter would not stay running very often.

    A few hours later I came to the conclusion, which seems to be supported by an entire lengthy thread here on this forum, that the M2-ATX power supply tends to do unpredictable things. It was issuing random shutdown commands on the pins that connector to the shutdown connector on the motherboard.

    I disconnected the connector and connected it to a pushbutton switch so that I would have a way to start the PC.

    I guess I gotta read the whole thread and figure out what to do next.

    Anyway, the PC powers up and stays up now.

    I found a few more "funny things", but they are most likely software related... the 50 or so very ungraceful startup-shutdowns that the M2 P/S did in the last 24 hours may have contributed to the problems.

    Centrafuse kept asking be to configure it... after a few passes thru that road it stopped asking and seems to remember things now.

    The "NAV" APP on Centrafuse WAS working (the british lady kept nagging me when I went 1 mph over the speed limit) , but now the NAV "button" is red (not sure what color is typically is) and when I press it, nothing happens.

    I made a SKYPE call from a McDonalds parking lot, which tests out WiFi and the microphone. At least they all seem to work. In fact, with the external mag mount antenna temporarily stuck on the roof and the 4 watt WiFi transceiver I typically saw a zillion Wifi access points just about everywhere I went. Even when all I could see were cows I saw a dozen access points.

    There might be a few more minor issues, but maybe I just don't quite know what buttons to push yet.

  10. #90
    Constant Bitrate Rickk's Avatar
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    Another minor problem figured out...

    The Anderson power control module has an "override" input. If you momentarily connect 12 volts to a terminal, it turns on for 15 minutes or adds 15 minutes to whatever time delay you have it programmed to time out for.

    A week ago I added a push button and wired it up to this terminal. What can go wrong, right? I didn't really test it out however.

    After a couple of days I realized that the stuff that was on when I parked the truck was still on the next morning... I didn't immediately connect this with the push button addition. However, I started to think about it and thought that maybe there was a connection between the switch and the new problem.

    I have been burned by switches before. "Off" is a funny thing. If the input impedance of this terminal was high enough, it might leak enough current in the off position that it would still get the needed 12 volts.

    The push button switch in question was brand new, but not in any sort of packaging. It was originally intended for use in a military aircraft... really good stuff... which is why I decided to use it. Tonight after I got home from a birthday party I grabbed my volt meter and measured the output of the switch.

    As it turns out, the push button switch in question is a normally closed, not a normally open. I love easy finds like this one.

    Time to dig around for another switch.


    Rick

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