A spare console would sure take the pressure off, if I had had a spare middle seat that I could have put back in the truck, I might have finished my truck sooner.
I will probably see how hard it is to pull the console out of my truck next week and go with that. If I can mount the PC in the console without much effort that will be great. It will fit under where my drink holders are now but I would lose the drink holders and it would be too easy to access. If I pull the subwoofer and relocate it the console has more than enough room for all sorts of goodies in it. The "Sno" box will easily fit in the console behind where I want to move the screen and the remainder of the console would be untouched and usable for other items.
My local junkyard has a bunch of consoles and is selling me one for $75 so I will be picking one up shortly.
I stripped the "new" console I have to see how it all fits together...
I need to relocate the BOSE amplifier and then I can mount the PC in the location the amplifier currently is located. I have to order some mounting brackets for the PC yet then I should be good to go.
The screen should be relatively easy to mount as well. So now I am getting closer to getting the PC into the truck. I shouldn't have to mess with the factory sub woofer at this point in time but it does provide a LOT of room if I so desire to remove it after the midgate is done.
Going to send a bracket out to get powder coated as well. It should be very simple for the shop to do with the rest.
Looking forward to getting the screen into the truck and going from there.
Console bracket is at the powder coater, Most of the rest of the console is at the mobile audio store to get the screen mounted and glassed in.
But I got my hub caps back. They look really good. One had a flaw in it but otherwise they are pretty much perfect although they look a little more rounded off then they are.
One of the backs of the hub caps and the newly coated piece front and back. If you look at the original picture in this thread this is the piece in the center of the rims that WAS silver/aluminum in color.
Here is an assembled hub cap:
Once I get the console back and the bracket back I should be able to mount the computer in the console and be on my way...
Tuned in. Love to see your interaction with the GM bus as I'd like to do the same to my truck as well.
First step for me is determining the gauges I can pull off the system. Going to be doing some motor work and don't want to buy "gauges" when a virtual one is available. Curious if you've hooked up your replacement OBD and what all you sniffed out on the CAN.
Before I can install my car PC I have a couple steps I need to do first.
I need to add my front USB ports as outlined below, I also have to finish installing my second battery.
I have a PAC-200 amp isolation solenoid to isolate the battery when the truck is off, I mounted the Auxilary Battery tray already and I have the pass-thru unit I mention below.
I have to yet get a battery for it and the main wiring for it. I will likely upgrade the 10 gauge alternator wire to 8 gauge since I have some left from wiring to the console.
My console has 8 gauge wiring running to it now to power the computer and all associated devices.
If you check the work log in the first message I have been keeping it more up to date. I will have to copy over the information here shortly.
I just had surgery on my shoulder and had it on my knee a couple months back so I have been slowed down a bit.
Before I install the computer and screen I purchased one of these that I have to install by cutting a 1.5" hole in my firewall. Going to try doing it near where the second battery goes.
That was a bit bigger than I Was expecting.. So I have to find a good place to put it. I figured it was a better option than cutting a hole through the firewall and running a wire. This will let me use it as a location to hook up stuff. I will likely only use it for my sound and computer system for now. Once I have it installed I will be running a temporary 8 gauge wire to my primary battery until I complete the secondary battery install if I am in a hurry to install the computer. I also have to install a couple alarm components in my truck yet to insure the installed alarm is working properly.
I do have a "sno" box that is completely populated that I will be trying to integrate into Open Mobile before I get into the CAN bus hacking.
They have it working with Drive line now but I want to work with Open Mobile.
I have some other stuff I am working on as well since I am driving a long ways from my girlfriends house to work every day. Things such as HID lighting and LED lighting. Hoping to have all of my lighting and computer upgrades installed by this fall.
My "today" project will involve combining 3 things together:
USB connector that normally goes to the back case slots
USB 4 port powered hub
Car charger with USB socket.
This HUB has 4 sockets coming out of it with one being for a micro USB.
I will be replacing the micro USB and one of the standard USB sockets with the back case sockets.
The power for the USB hub is a second USB plug that just has the power wires hooked up. I will be hard wiring this to the car charger. I have disassembled the car charger (Amazon Basic 2amp charger) and will hard wire that to the USB hub as well. I will use a 6' USB extension cable to run the standard USB cable to my car PC.
I will be mounting the 2 port section under a pocket in my dash that seems like it is made for it and will have to trim the dash cover to allow the sockets to come through.
I have already tested running the USB hub off the charger by its self and tried to charge my phone and it worked.
My intension with this is to allow charging of devices no matter if the PC is on or not or even if it isn't connected. Powering the hub with a 2amp supply will allow for full speed charging on my devices not limited by the PC. Debating removing the power line from the USB cable running to the computer so I don't backfeed the computer or power the devices from the computer. Or atleast putting a diode on the line to protect the PC.
The 2 other sockets will be used for the touch screens USB connections.
The sockets in the dash will be fully functional USB ports but can be used for just charging if desired. I think this adds much flexibility to the build.
I will be loosing both of my 12 volt sockets in the dash when I mount the 10.1" screen so I am still looking for places for them. I will likely put one inside the console and there already is one in the back of the console.
I am considering just cutting a hole in the dash on the passengers side to have a plug there. I have a total of 5 sockets I can install between the 2 I need to relocate in the factory console and the 3 from the spare console I bought.
But anyhow I hope to have my PC installed in the truck in the next 2 weeks. It may take me a little longer to totally integrate it as I need to splice in to the XM radio audio line to the radio to send my audio to the truck. Will use the amp remote turn on to switch between the XM radio and computer. I will then begin integrating the "sno" box into my truck. I will post details...
I hope to have all of the hardware in my truck before school starts in September.
For software I plan to integrate all of the items into OM before moving on to the CAN bus hacking.
My CAN hacking stuff will start with the entertainment stuff since I want to remove the radio completely from my system. I am hoping to be able to replace the radio and integrate the rear entertainment center, The XM radio and the steering wheel controls into the computer.
I will also be trying to get the codes for the Alarm I have installed so I can eventually remove the alarm. I MAY have to build a full time "hacking" tool to do the capture for me. I have some ARM based development boards that could do the trick. They have a CAN connection as part of the board. I MAY try to build some software for them to be able to sniff my databuses to get the data I need. I will likely replace the radio at some point with one of these arm boards communicating with the PC. So it should be a fun time. But I am probably into next year before I get serious about the data bus/can hacking.
I will be updating this soon with pictures etc...
I have spent most of my spare time over the past two weeks preparing different components to go into my truck and I have spent the last three days working on the truck.
I have drilled the required 1 1/2" hole through my firewall for my "pass-thru" and have properly sealed the hole. I took all of the dash skin off to look for a good location. I also identified where the antennae wire is while doing this and moved it to an easier to access area. I had to modify the console wire harness so I could relocate the BOSE amplifier. I ended up relocating the amplifier under the passenger seat. I had to remove the ducting that was under the seat and blocked it off. I had to remove the carpeting where the ducting was and had to make some changes to how the wiring was tied up under the seat. The BOSE amplifier is loose under the seat but is operational. If I had a truck without the rear entertainment system I would not have had to modify the wire harness. Once you remove the electrical tape and the plastic protector the wires split out pretty well. Since I have a spare console here I pulled the wiring from that console to make the spare wiring up. I had to extend the ground wire and the audio wires to the RSE since those were relatively short because they were shared. I pulled the same wiring from the backup console to use. I also had to cut a hole in the side of the console to pass the amplifier harness to the exterior of the console. If I would have been able to pass it to the drivers side the drivers side actually has a slot in it which I assume is for cooling of the amplifier.
I will update this thread when finished with pictures and such..
I have mounted the computer under the new powder coated brace... I have the base of the console back in place. I am still working on the wiring of the computer and hope to have it mostly done today.
On the todo list for today is tracking down an ignition wire and finding a location I can mount two relays. I will probably mount the relays in the back by the computer since I have quite a bit of room.
I want one relay to run all of my ignition related controls and the other to run all of my "amp turn on" controls.
I am using the cheap "$3 aux" circuit to bring my audio from the computer to the system. I also have it setup to be configurable for an AUX input as well. I will be able to feed the audio into the computer or pass it around. As is the computer will take as input the XM Radio and output it back to the system when the computer is on. When the computer is off the relay will allow the XM radio signal to bypass the computer.
I have not looked for a location to put my add on box yet. I have to do some programming for this box to get it running right with the computer so I have not added it and don't have a spot to put it.
I have separate GPS and ODBII cables that I COULD use for now. I will likely mount my HD radio to the XM satellite box and splice into its wiring to get my power.
But hopefully by the end of the weekend I will have a fully functional computer mounted in my truck. and operational.
With all of the "top of the console" yet to be mounted I have lots of room to "adjust" things. I also added a 12 volt outlet to the wiring to the rear that I pulled from the second harness to add a power port to the storage compartment.
Can NOT wait to have this up and running.. ;)