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Thread: 2010 Jetta - NUC based Car PC

  1. #1
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    2010 Jetta - NUC based Car PC

    So I started this project quite a few months ago. Right now I have the following components in the configuration:

    Mobo: Intel NUC D34010WYK
    PSU: Mini-box DCDC USB
    AMP: TDA7850
    Volumn Knob/Home Button/Fan Control: Arduino with some custom circuitry

    After I realized there's no existing enclosure that would work perfectly for my setup, I decided to design one myself and 3D print it. I know that may sound too much effort but I want to take this as an exercise. Currently the design is about 50% done:

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    And it looks like this in real life:

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    I use the rocker switch to simulate an IGN signal, and the system boots and shuts down as expected. The amp works OK, but it picks up noise from the PSU/NUC even when I leave the audio input floating. I am not sure it's ground loop noise or not but I will try to get both a ground loop isolator and a power noise filter to play with and see how things go.
    Last edited by ivanwyc; 10-22-2014 at 08:58 AM.

  2. #2
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Very nice work! I will be following this thread. SNO

  3. #3
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    cool!! nice job... Amps like that are always finicky

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    Hi Jeff, do you have any experience on fighting these noise problems? I am still waiting for my ground loop isolator and power noise filter, but I would like to learn what people usually do with it.

  5. #5
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    What Isolators are you waiting for? Also where are your audio lines in the photos?

    I am thinking the first thing I would do is try to isolate audio lines and then I would move the amp away from the box (for testing purposes). try a metal shield around the amp ( Careful not to short it)

    Ground the shield ad try with out grounding.. see if those things help

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    Thought it may be a good idea to share more details with you guys, and let me start with dash trim.

    I actually bought a Lilliput 669 and replaced the touch screen with a capacitive one, but end up I found myself not satisfied the rather low resolution, and bought a better one with native resolution 1280x800. The new problem is that it's not going to fit any aftermarket dash trim. So beside the enclosure, I went ahead and started design my own dash trim as well.

    This task isn't trivial because, as we all known, many dashes are not flat surface. Although this is a hobby project I want to make it as good as I can. So I ended up tried to imitate the trim of the stock radio by taking multiple sample points (for both depth values and locations of boundaries) of the surface:

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    I reconstructed the curved surface with some mathematical tools and wrote a couple plugins for SketchUp, and successfully modeled the trim piece in SketchUp:

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    Of course this is far from finished. I still need to make cutoffs for the display, volume knob, home button, think about how to hold all these things tight to the piece, and how do I attach this to the enclosure (if you look at the enclosure design above I did reserve some M4 screw holes for this). Also FDM 3d printing is far from ready for this kind of work: printing size limitation, quality of the product surface, etc. I will need to glue multiple pieces, sand and paint before I have an usable dash trim. Below are some test prints I made to verify the model:

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    Last edited by ivanwyc; 10-23-2014 at 12:53 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by -=Jeff=- View Post
    What Isolators are you waiting for?
    I ordered these two guys from ebay:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/270483867810

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/131172493407

    Also where are your audio lines in the photos?
    Please see this picture:

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    Actually I kind of confirmed that a major part of the noise comes from the power source, which the AMP and the PSU (for the PC) share:

    - Even when I unplug the aux cable to the AMP and let the input floating, the noise is still there
    - If I use a separated 12V power source for the AMP, the noise will be gone. The AMP still sits next to the running PC.

    That's why I want to see whether a power noise filter will help. I guess the CSS-100 thing is nothing more than an usual DC noise filter we see in many DC power cables, with higher current rating though:

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    A dedicated power rail from the AMP all the way to the battery may be a better solution, but I want to experiment with various solutions.

    I am thinking the first thing I would do is try to isolate audio lines and then I would move the amp away from the box (for testing purposes). try a metal shield around the amp ( Careful not to short it)

    Ground the shield ad try with out grounding.. see if those things help
    Thanks for these useful tips. I will try them and see whether they will improve the output.

  8. #8
    Variable Bitrate camo.b's Avatar
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    Very nice!! What are your plans for the arduino?

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    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    Subscribed....very interested to see the final product. Looks good so far!
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  10. #10
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    I used a ground Isolater like you did for my tablet install. I was getting alternator whine and that seemed to clear it up (mostly) for me

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