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Thread: 2000 BMW 328Ci (e46) - laptop install

  1. #81
    Variable Bitrate Hark's Avatar
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    More updates - Parrot tech support says their unit with the relays inside will automatically mute all speakers (even without hooking up the mute line to anything), even though the diagram above shows them handling only the front two. Guess I'll give this a try, since it will be easier/cleaner than having to add a relay into the mix. Sounds kinda fishy though - We'll see.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hark
    More updates - Parrot tech support says their unit with the relays inside will automatically mute all speakers (even without hooking up the mute line to anything), even though the diagram above shows them handling only the front two. Guess I'll give this a try, since it will be easier/cleaner than having to add a relay into the mix. Sounds kinda fishy though - We'll see.

    IN my install, I only used the parrot wires for the front speaker. IT saved me a whole bunch of time trying to find all the speaker wires, since the amp waws not easily accesible in the car. I then used a relay with the "mute wire" frmo the parrot unit to cut power to the stereo. That pretty much mutes it, you know . I put the relay in the low power accessory signal to the HU. It was really easy. If you can access your amp, just put the relay in the switched ignition wire leading to the amp. That will turn off the amp, so you won't hear any music. Then just connect the parrott "mute cable" wires that you want. You probably only need to connect to one speaker, like the front drivers side. That should be more then sufficient.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  3. #83
    Variable Bitrate Hark's Avatar
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    Ok - so in my case the single yellow mute cable will trigger a relay to shut off the amp, and I will splice the audio output of the Parrot to the front two speakers. What's the best way to splice into speaker cable? And when I do, doesn't that mean that when the amp's active, it'll be sending current back up the parrot speaker wires, and is that bad? Is there any sound degredation when I do this sort of splicing?

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hark
    Ok - so in my case the single yellow mute cable will trigger a relay to shut off the amp, and I will splice the audio output of the Parrot to the front two speakers. What's the best way to splice into speaker cable? And when I do, doesn't that mean that when the amp's active, it'll be sending current back up the parrot speaker wires, and is that bad? Is there any sound degredation when I do this sort of splicing?

    Well, in essence, the parrot "mute cable", which is different thent he parrot "mute wire". The mute cable has an ISO connector on it. The mute wire connects to the mut cable depending on which wire int he ISO connector mutes the stereo, but since we have no ISO connectors, don't worry about that.

    The "mute cable" has an "input" from the amp, and an "output" from the amp. When the parrot doesn't need the speaker, it just lets the sound pass from the "input" to the "output", as if the "mute cable" isn't there, and the parrot is not connected to it. But, when the parrot needs the speaker, it cuts the connection, and feeds parrot sound out the "output" directly to the speaker. The parrot "mute cable" is designed to do that and is designed in a way that the power from the amp/speaker will not feed back.

    The yellow "mute wire" must be connected to a relay. The mute wire supplies a negative signal, so the relay must get power from a 12 volt source from somewhere. I would suggest getting the power from the switched ignition sense of the amp you are using, also sometimes called the "amp turn on" or something to that effect. (just check for polarity, I guess the amp turn on can be a ground in some installations. You can always use a constant positive for the relay if need be, since the relay will only be energized, and drawign power, when the parrot "mute wire" is grounded, which only occurs when the parrot unit is doing soemthing)

    Connecting to the speaker wires is should be the same as any other connection. Just cut, strip, and connect. I like to solder connections when possible, but something like a "butt connector" will do fine, as long as you make a good, tight connection.

    There should be no degradation is sound quality. I haven't been able to hear any, at least. But I am no audiophile. Let me know if you notice a loss in sound quality.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  5. #85
    Maximum Bitrate srcstc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jedi7001
    Hark, I tried the tape thing, just did not cut it. I am going to try the "pin" option this weekend and let you know how it goes.
    I have a new version Bezel that you don't need the pin and has beefed up mounting holes. Lemme know if either of you (jedi7001&Hark) want to swap yours out for the new version (no charge of course, just pay shipping).
    You can even get the Power and LED holes if you want.


    Rich

  6. #86
    Variable Bitrate Hark's Avatar
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    Really nice of you - I'm in, can't wait!

  7. #87
    Variable Bitrate Hark's Avatar
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    Time for an update: got the Parrot bluetooth kit installed and working properly. Replaced all the speakers, put in a new amp. Installed a backup camera in the trunk keyhole. Bought a headunit (mounted in trunk), running the PC through the aux-in, MAJOR sound quality improvement from going straight to the amp.

    To do: hook up car antenna to headunit for fm radio; install girder/UIRT to make pc control hu volume, source, fm presets; make trunk liner cover to hide components in trunk; take lots of pictures and finally make a "show off your project" thread.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hark
    Replaced all the speakers, put in a new amp. Installed a backup camera in the trunk keyhole. Bought a headunit (mounted in trunk), running the PC through the aux-in, MAJOR sound quality improvement from going straight to the amp.
    What HU are you using? You had and Audigy 2NX, right? (it's been a yer since I saw your setup, so I don't remember and I'm too tire to read the rest of this thread). lol But that wasn't putting out enough sound even after the stereo system and amp??...what amp and speakers are you using?

    I guess I'll find out for myself how well it sounds.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hark
    got the Parrot bluetooth kit installed and working properly.
    I have a Treo too...ur saying it worked? WOOHOO. Now can you hide it and control it through the carputer frontend? THAT is the question.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hark
    take lots of pictures and finally make a "show off your project" thread.
    SWEEEEEEEEEEET! I'm definitly looking forward to that! or better yet, another ATL meet (with me in town finally).
    Toyota Tacoma Install
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  9. #89
    Low Bitrate MoonShiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx
    My Pleasure.

    The install I did was a little unique but perhaps it will work for you.

    The car I installed into is a Lexus RX330, with navigation. When the navi talks, it comes out the speakers on the front right of the car. I easilt located those speakers, and the advantage was that they were in the top of the dash, on the left, where the glass meets the dash. I removed the grill, and the speaker and located the wires. I then cut the wires, and connected some quality speaker wire to lengthen the cars speaker wires to about 10 feet, which I admit was overkill, but I didn't want to have any problems. I then verified that everything still worked, car stereo and navi sound coming out of the speaker. I also knew that I was after the amp, which is important with the Parrott unit I had (3100).

    I than ran the wires through the dash to where I intended to mount the body of the 3100. I then hacked the "Mute Cable" by cutting the two same wires from just before the connectors. The mute cable actually has a relay of sorts, that when energized, cuts the speakers connection (the mute cable is inserted between the radio and the speakers using the ISO connectors) and feeds Parrott sound directly to the speaker, and when not energized, allows the radio sound to pass through to the speakers. I then cut the speaker wire I previously connected to the cars speaker, and attached the those wires to the appropriate wires of the "mute cable". It worked perfectly, and will probably work for you as well. The only thing is that the "mute cable" must be installed AFTER the amp. If your amp is easily accessible, it might be easier to make the connection there.

    Michael
    Wiredwrx do you have a touchscreen lcd in the rx330? I'm trying to do an install into an rx330 but have no idea where to put the lcd. Looking for some ideas.

    Any info is appreciated.

    Thanks!

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShiner
    Wiredwrx do you have a touchscreen lcd in the rx330? I'm trying to do an install into an rx330 but have no idea where to put the lcd. Looking for some ideas.

    Any info is appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Confused

    The only thing I did to the RX was install the Parrott BlueTooth kit. I have not installed a carputer in the RX.

    It has touchscreen Navi, and everything I would want except perhaps for MP3 playback, which I can accomplish with an IPod if I want. Also, the car is my GFs, and well, carputers are not necessarily someting she wants to have to tinker with.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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