Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 73

Thread: 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL - not done yet, but close

  1. #41
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    I am almost done, I had to make a serial cable from scratch for the touch
    screen, I had some old modem cables but they were DB9 male to female,
    but it needed a female to female, I had the parts, and I used Ethernet
    cable, like this,
    and it works fine, be careful Ethernet cable is easy to break, no sharp bends.

    Here is my relay wiring just behind my drivers side trunk wheel well,


    An then the computer wiring,

  2. #42
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    Now for the LCD mount,





    Now its covered with shop vac hose



    I recycled my old cell phone mount, I added the extra metal bars


    Now an action shot


  3. #43
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    I have about 90% of it done, its usable right now, but I still need to
    replace the head unit, the one I have now has no AUX input at all
    and I need to get a wireless mouse, I have an old Microsoft wireless
    mouse but it sucks, wont work more than about 2 feet from the
    transmitter and the batterys die every week or two
    and there are lots of small things to iron out



    I am going to take it easy and clean up the huge mess I made
    looking for parts

  4. #44
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA, USA
    Posts
    1,606
    I give you credit for ingenuity. Putting the DC-DC PSU inside the power supply case is a really good idea. And covering the pipes with a vacuum cleaner hose -- that's just outrageously good. Nice, craftsmanlike work.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  5. #45
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    Quote Originally Posted by rdholtz View Post
    I give you credit for ingenuity. Putting the DC-DC PSU inside the power supply case is a really good idea. And covering the pipes with a vacuum cleaner hose -- that's just outrageously good. Nice, craftsmanlike work.
    Yea they sell that same mount on ebay, and I have even seen cop cars
    around here using something just like it, that design must be getting
    popular, I am thinking about using them around the house, but
    yea look some of my earlier links to see were I got the ideas from.

    I may end up shorting it a bit, I can't insert or eject any CDs in my
    head unit , I totally overlooked that, but the LCD is at the height
    I want, so I my do something different

  6. #46
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA, USA
    Posts
    1,606
    Quote Originally Posted by will1384 View Post
    I may end up shorting it a bit, I can't insert or eject any CDs in my head unit , I totally overlooked that, but the LCD is at the height I want, so I may do something different
    Well, we carPC builders are really in the prototype business. I rarely design anything that doesn't get changed a little -- or a lot -- in redesigns.

    Perhaps you could loosen one of the joints in the pipe. If you loosen it just enough to allow motion on demand, but not unless you use a little force, you might be able to temporarily swing the screen out of the way when you want to use the CD unit. Since the screen is rather delicately mounted to the system, maybe you could attach some sort of handle under the pivot mount. That would to let you move the screen without applying any force to the screen mount points.

    If you want to attach your screen to the post in a way that lets you move it at will, you might consider using a regular heavy-duty hinge. If you take the standard pin out and replace it with a bolt the same diameter, you can make a hinge that only moves when you want. The freedom to move is determined by how hard you tighten down the nut. To keep it from squeaking and to add smoothness to the motion, use fiber or copper washers (or, best of all, a sandwich of copper-fiber-copper) on each end. Use a second "keeper" nut to lock it in place, and away you go. The hinge we used was under $6 at Home Depot, and it's really a heavy-duty unit. Your screen is much lighter, so you could use a lighter hinge.

    One of my favorite materials to build with is 1/2-inch rigid copper tubing. I've made several computer holders for laptops with it; cover it with foam pipe insulation, and it's decent-looking, too. Here's a worklog I did on version 2 of the last one. Although that one slipped into a cubbyhole in the dash, I've made two that simply bridged the console and provided a deck for the laptop. The version in that worklog even had a slip fitting so I could move a "keeper" into place.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  7. #47
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    Quote Originally Posted by rdholtz View Post
    Well, we carPC builders are really in the prototype business. I rarely design anything that doesn't get changed a little -- or a lot -- in redesigns.

    Perhaps you could loosen one of the joints in the pipe. If you loosen it just enough to allow motion on demand, but not unless you use a little force, you might be able to temporarily swing the screen out of the way when you want to use the CD unit. Since the screen is rather delicately mounted to the system, maybe you could attach some sort of handle under the pivot mount. That would to let you move the screen without applying any force to the screen mount points.

    If you want to attach your screen to the post in a way that lets you move it at will, you might consider using a regular heavy-duty hinge. If you take the standard pin out and replace it with a bolt the same diameter, you can make a hinge that only moves when you want. The freedom to move is determined by how hard you tighten down the nut. To keep it from squeaking and to add smoothness to the motion, use fiber or copper washers (or, best of all, a sandwich of copper-fiber-copper) on each end. Use a second "keeper" nut to lock it in place, and away you go. The hinge we used was under $6 at Home Depot, and it's really a heavy-duty unit. Your screen is much lighter, so you could use a lighter hinge.

    One of my favorite materials to build with is 1/2-inch rigid copper tubing. I've made several computer holders for laptops with it; cover it with foam pipe insulation, and it's decent-looking, too. Here's a worklog I did on version 2 of the last one. Although that one slipped into a cubbyhole in the dash, I've made two that simple bridged the console and provided a deck for the laptop. The version in that worklog even had a slip fitting so I could move a "keeper" into place.
    I was able to move the Panavise mount part of it, but its a pain
    to tighten back up, the screen is heavy and if I keep moving it
    like that I think it will strip out, Panavise makes some extending
    mounts, I might check them out, they also have some nice flex
    mounts, but I am not sure they will handle the weight of my screen,
    my screen feels to be about 7 to 10 pounds, but the manual says
    4.6 pounds

    Yea I saw that laptop stand/shelf and PC Mount you made with copper
    tubing, they look nice

    I was playing Bejeweled Twist today, using the touch screen, it works
    perfect with a touch screen, all except the first time you play and
    have to enter your name, I have a micro keyboard, but I am
    thinking about replacing it with one easier to use, its this one here

    man its a pain to use, and its missing a lot of keys

    I am using an old Belkin TuneCast FM Transmitter, not sure the model
    its got to be 4 to 5 years old, if anyone is interested here is a mod to
    help remove the hiss you may hear, Belkin Tunecast II FM Transmitter Mod
    just remember that it may be illegal, and try to Google radio stations in
    your area and find a open slot were there is no radio station, that helps
    a lot, I have to use FM Transmitter because my head unit has no AUX
    inputs, but next month I plan on getting a new head unit, I am thinking
    ether a Pioneer DEH-P4900IB or a JVC KD-HDR20 and get the optional
    AUX adapter, both are around the same price and can be had for under
    $100 if you look

  8. #48
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    I went out and got a powered hub at staples, made up a cable to power it
    from a 12v USB charger and hooked it up, I seam to have let the
    magic smoke out of my hub and 4 port USB pci adapter, I have (4) 12v USB
    chargers, 2 small ones and 2 bigger ones with 12v sockets, I grabbed one
    of the small ones and used it, even though it had a USB socket on the
    charger, it puts out 5.4v not 5v, and I guess that was enough to kill the hub
    and PCI card, I never even thought to look at the voltage it puts out

  9. #49
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    Quote Originally Posted by will1384 View Post
    I went out and got a powered hub at staples, made up a cable to power it
    from a 12v USB charger and hooked it up, I seam to have let the
    magic smoke out of my hub and 4 port USB pci adapter, I have (4) 12v USB
    chargers, 2 small ones and 2 bigger ones with 12v sockets, I grabbed one
    of the small ones and used it, even though it had a USB socket on the
    charger, it puts out 5.4v not 5v, and I guess that was enough to kill the hub
    and PCI card, I never even thought to look at the voltage it puts out
    (1) off brand Wallmart dual usb with 12v socket, was putting out
    over 6v with the car running - this was made for Ipods
    (2) off brand 12v USB adapter, 5.4V
    (3) Belkin 12v USB adapter, 5.5V - that's what killed my USB hub
    (4) PowerLine 0900-82, 5.2V with the car running, from the USB
    Power Port, - On its 4.5v setting using the power plug, and the
    motor running, its outputting 4.7v

    I seam to have also killed my wireless mouse,

    I plan on getting DCL11 Automotive Point-Of-Load DC-DC 15W Power Supply

    Trying to be a cheap S.O.B I have burnt up more money than something
    specifically made for this costs

  10. #50
    Variable Bitrate will1384's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jefferson, AR U.S.A
    Posts
    331
    I ordered a Zippy EL-620 Mini Keyboard, a 7 port powered USB hub "RHB-320",
    some cables, replacement USB PCI card, and replaced my mouse

    I put off the DCL11 till next month

Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •