Thread: 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL - not done yet, but close

Originally Posted by Kadyroff

For my installation I've tried to make two cables using Ethernet cable - one for GPS unit and another for remote reset button/HDD&Power leds. I tryed to install the cables in the car several times, and everytime both cables became broken. I may admit that really cold wether (below zero) could be the reason for that, however I quit the idea and bought few meters of nice so-called "microphone" cable. It has rubber shell that sustain well minus temperature, and the cable consist of 8 braided cable conductors which are way more bending resist comparing to Ethernet single core conductors.

Just my experience for anybody living in cold region

Rather than using Cat5 or Cat5e cable, you might have better luck using Ethernet extension cables, which are 8 multiple-strand wires rather than 8 single wires. They're much more flexible, and are intended for installations where they'll need to flex.

Originally Posted by Kadyroff

For my installation I've tried to make two cables using Ethernet cable - one for GPS unit and another for remote reset button/HDD&Power leds. I tryed to install the cables in the car several times, and everytime both cables became broken. I may admit that really cold wether (below zero) could be the reason for that, however I quit the idea and bought few meters of nice so-called "microphone" cable. It has rubber shell that sustain well minus temperature, and the cable consist of 8 braided cable conductors which are way more bending resist comparing to Ethernet single core conductors.

Just my experience for anybody living in cold region

Yea I was thinking I might have problems like that, but my first VGA
cable for my car was made form cat5, it held up for years, until I
replaced it, I am guessing the cold makes the difference, the coldest
its gets around here is just below freezing for a few days and back
to warm weather, it seams to do that in cycles all winter long

Originally Posted by rdholtz

Rather than using Cat5 or Cat5e cable, you might have better luck using Ethernet extension cables, which are 8 multiple-strand wires rather than 8 single wires. They're much more flexible, and are intended for installations where they'll need to flex.

I found a 10 foot long female to female DB9 cable on Amazon.com for
like $2.35 I am going to replace the home made one with it, I may still have
to use a short extension cable to get an extra few feet or inches, but this
should solve any potential wire problems I hope

Got some parts in today, and got that DCL11 on order

I got my Zippy EL-620 Mini Keyboard, Hub, USB cables, and PCI USB card

Here is the cables running under my rear seat, split loom protecting them


And the USB hub, fits perfect, arm rest lid even closes with the thumb drive
plugged in on top




I am trying to figure out a way hold the keyboard, and came up
with using a flexible camera tripod, a Targus Digital Grypton Tripod
I do want to replace it but it holds the keyboard ok

I took off the camera head from the tripod, it unscrews, and used
the center leg to wrap around the mount


I want to use something to hold the keyboard like that, but that
wont kill or hurt me in an accident, so I cant just use a metal plate

Here is an action shot


When I was sitting out there with the doors open bugs kept buzzing
my keyboard, and about 5 to 10 managed to get around under the
keys, so if you get an illuminated keyboard try for a red lighted one
or keep your doors closed

Originally Posted by will1384

When I was sitting out there with the doors open bugs kept buzzing my keyboard, and about 5 to 10 managed to get around under the keys, so if you get an illuminated keyboard try for a red lighted one
or keep your doors closed

You're going back to the original meaning of the computer term -- you have to de-bug the keyboard. Good history lesson!

Originally Posted by rdholtz

You're going back to the original meaning of the computer term -- you have to de-bug the keyboard. Good history lesson!

Originally Posted by rdholtz

If you want to attach your screen to the post in
a way that lets you move it at will, you might consider using a regular
heavy-duty hinge. If you take the standard pin out and replace it with
a bolt the same diameter, you can make a hinge that only moves when
you want. The freedom to move is determined by how hard you tighten
down the nut. To keep it from squeaking and to add smoothness to the
motion, use fiber or copper washers (or, best of all, a sandwich of
copper-fiber-copper) on each end. Use a second "keeper" nut to lock
it in place, and away you go. The hinge we used was under $6 at
Home Depot, and it's really a heavy-duty unit. Your screen is much
lighter, so you could use a lighter hinge

I was talking to a friend last night, about the carpc and trying to figure
out a better mount for the keyboard and he said try to put it on a hinge
that made me remember what you had said, and I went out and got
a hinge and a sheet of Lexan and made this

Top

Bottom

Side



I used a old grinder wheel on the Lexan and hinge, was going to replace
that grinder wheel soon anyway, - soft metal and plastic can make a
grinder wheel crack - I used the grinder wheel to round the edges,
and sandpaper to smooth it, and a foam sanding block to finish it off

Its still not perfect, I need to get some Velcro or something to keep
the keyboard from sliding off, an do some small changes, like move the
hinge and Lexan down some to give the LCD more freedom of
movement, you can see what I mean here



Just some longer bolts and washers should do

I found some Velcro, washers, nuts and bolts and fixed it

Got my DCL11 POL power supply in, and mounted in an old laptop
hard drive caddy.

Look how small the the DCL11 is.




Later on I will mount it inside the same ATX power supply case
as my M4-ATX, this will do until I have more time

Originally Posted by will1384

I struggled with the Mini-Key USB mini keyboard for years, now that I have a good keyboard in my car the difference is like night and day, problem is it takes up a lot of room, and now I am thinking about getting a better mount, just so I can move this huge keyboard out of my way when I need to, I need a mount with a swing arm, I can make one, but it wont look good, I am thinking about the URL="http://www.amazon.com/Jeniko-Cfl-1000-Laptop-Computer-Vehicles/dp/B0015TCPNK"]Jeniko CFL-1000 laptop mount [/URL] but I am worried about the weight it holds, "Weight capacity 10lbs" and the fact that I will have to modify it, remove the laptop tray and replace it with my screen mount, So yea I know how you feel.

Good luck

Keyboard space is at a premium in a car. The problem is that every keyboard that fits my fingers is too big, and everything that fits nicely in the car would require me to use a stylus. I'm wishing for a way to put a small QWERTY touchscreen in the steering wheel.

Now, as to your project:

You Could Buy a Laptop Mount
I looked at the $80 laptop mount you linked. It looks pretty good.

At first glance, the Amazon upgrade listed, the "Computer Car, Truck, RV Mount: laptop table stand, camera" looked even better for $20 more. But I realized there's no data on its weight capacity. The vendor's website provides more information, but still no capacity data. And I'm inherently suspicious of anyone who ships something that's relatively light and charges $19.95 shipping and handling; it seems devious -- I'd find them more credible if they charged realistic shipping and just kicked the price up higher.

But Maybe You Could "Run What Ya Brung"
You're pretty ingenious, so, instead of buying a solution, how about modifying the system you've built? You could reduce the size of the keyboard tray to only the depth you need, and attach the keyboard to it with Velcro. You already have it hinged, so you might be able to simply swing the keyboard down when you don't need it.

I suspect that, if you'd add copper washers sandwiched between steel washers on each end of the hinge pin, you could tighten it to a point where it would provide enough friction to hold the keyboard and tray in any position you choose, but would still allow you to move it easily without fracturing the Lexan.

Those few copper washers would cost lots less than the laptop mount.

Originally Posted by will1384

well it does behind the seat - but no one ever sees that,
But I still want to clean up the wires - I am waiting for the M1-ATX
and the money to buy it

Im guessing he means nasty, in a good way.... Now a days you dont know what someone means. Maybe you should build a piece to match the woofer box that the PC goes into, so it looks uniform. Other then that the install is nice, very clean.