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Thread: 2003 Mercedes C-Sports Coupe

  1. #1
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    2003 Mercedes C-Sports Coupe

    After a few months of reading I am finally read to start my project. I'm gonna to do this slowly and get it right so this is what I'm starting with:

    SUPER 7" TS
    slotload DVD/CDRW drive (with IDE-USB conversion)
    double-din Metra dash kit
    2.5" LCD
    reverse camera
    my laptop (temporary until I decide on HW or find a deal)

    The 7" and slotload DVD will be molded into the double-din dash kit using the ABS/Acetone method, can't wait to try this!

    The reverse camera is being mounted in a mudflap since my hatchback does not have a keyhole. The 2.5" screen will be used to view the reverse camera and molded into the A-pillar with a couple gauges for Volts and Boost (maybe Amps too if I can find a cheap gauge).


    I got my SUPER 7" screen today, dash kit yesterday, and hopefully slotload DVD later this week. Gotta measure the voltage in my car, I wouldn't be surprised if its already regulated and won't spike during crank.

    I'll hopefully post some pics this weekend!

  2. #2
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    im looking foward to this im going to mod my c240 soon enough too

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiriller
    im looking foward to this im going to mod my c240 soon enough too
    What city are you in? I'll do my best to document the steps, I have some big plans:
    1. Indash 7" TS with slot load DVD below it.
    2. Hacked MB tape deck to hide under dash (if fiber-optic cables can run that far) with RCA inputs and buttons moved to ashtray area (I want steering wheel controls for radio)
    3. A-pillar with 2.5" LCD and 2 (maybe 3) gauges.
    4. Fake cd changer in glove-box, with door acting as access to card reader, extra USB ports (gotta find a wrecked MB CD changer)
    5. Touchpad and mini-keyboard (dreamware?) molded into either top of armrest, or buy the 2005 armrest that folds sideways and mold them into the top compartment
    6. Custom lighted plexi/polished aluminum PC enclosure for one side of the hatch
    7. 19" LCD, XBOX, sub, and amp molded into other side of hatch area (early spring hopefully)
    8. GPS and 802.11 external antennas mounted under hood vents (having custom hood made in spring, invader style vent already here waiting to be molded in, also doing dual vents a la SL style hood, cutting the single vent by the washer nozzles and molding the centre flush, adding chrome fins)

    So to anyone reading, I need the following:
    1. GPS and WiFi USB adaptors with external antennas
    2. multifunction card reader with USB ports
    3. CarPc (motherboard, 512 Mb ram, PS)
    4. Cool case with plexiglass front (I'd like a starting point rather than full custom)
    5. Broken CD changer, perferably MB CD changer

    Yes it seems like a lot! Here's my car currently:
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
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    The car currently has:
    - 19" staggered 8.5/9.5" Brabus Mono VI replicas with 235/265 rubber!
    - Brabus front/rear lip (rear lip custom painted diffuser)
    - Lorinser roof wing
    - Shatz SL fender vents and hood fins
    - Smoked 2005 tails
    - Debadged
    - AMG sway bars
    - Painted calipers
    - Painted grill
    - Weathertech weatherflectors
    - Euro Audio 10 indash CD
    - Clear corners
    - AMG gauge bezel
    - ICELED underglow and footwell glow! www.iceled.co.uk Check it out!

  5. #5
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    Im part way through building my system and have changed cars. New car is a C220, this might sound stupid but how do i remove the trim around the old head unit.

  6. #6
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    I recommend you use an 800tsv. It fits, barely, but is much brighter and bigger.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mooog123
    Im part way through building my system and have changed cars. New car is a C220, this might sound stupid but how do i remove the trim around the old head unit.
    C220? CDI?

    www.mbklasse.com Lots of C-class info. The trim is easy to remove if you have a 2001-2006:
    1. Open ash tray and look up underneath. There's 2 clips that need to be popped down to release the lower part of the dash trim. Put some tape on the ashtray or use something plastic, otherwise you'll scratch the trim.
    2. Must remove the top vents. There's a little clip that you need to push to the side and the vents will tilt further up/down. Tilt them up and remove the 2 screws that are visible. Tilt them down and use a flat head screwdrive to find a metal latch near the top corners. Push down and pull out, its a clip with teeth, so you have to push down the metal tab to release the tetth and pull out at the same time.
    3. Now the dash trim should be free!

    There's a full write up on MBKlasse.com or MBWorld.org with pics. Search for "Audio 10 install".

    PM me if you need any help, I have removed most trim peices before.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vinister
    I recommend you use an 800tsv. It fits, barely, but is much brighter and bigger.
    I have the SUPER screen already, going with a 7" and slot DVD drive to start, if I want bigger I'll do a custom dash peice with a 10" later.

  9. #9
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    Does anyone happen to know how long the fibre cable is going from the cd-changer to the headunit? I would like to place a 7" screen in the radio area, but also re-locate my headunit to act as an amp and also maintain functionality of the Cd-changer. Maintaining the headunit is also priority because I can then use my steering wheel buttons to control volume of the pc.

    Most likely, I would re-route everything over to the glovebox, and hopefully, either stuff the headunit into the glovebox, or build up an enclosure for it underneath the glovebox. To me, it would seem logical that if the fibre-cable can reach from the cd-changer to the headunit, it shouldn't have a problem connecting to somewhere in the glovebox?

    Also, anyone have dimensions for the stock audio headunit?

  10. #10
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    Finally started fabrication last night. Cut the dash bezel and screen enclosure to fit roughly. Trying to source a slot-CD face before continuing fab since my slot-load DVD didn't come with a face.

    Also trying to source a small plastic compartment that I can put beside the screen to hold the remote since I am deleting the buttons to put the slot-load DVD below the screen.

    Aron,

    The fiberoptic cables are delicate, so be careful moving them. I'd suggest it'd be easier to relocate the deck to whatever side of the car the fiberoptics cables originate from. I am going to try to strip the deck down by removing the tape mechanism and front facia and stuff it behind the LCD screen.

    I'll be taking apart the tape deck later this week and looking at how I can fit the facia in the ashtray so I can retain the buttons to control the stations and switch between PC and FM/AM.

    With some light cutting there's lots of room behind the centre console

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