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Thread: 94 Mustang GT

  1. #41
    Constant Bitrate Specimen's Avatar
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    Wow I don't know why I didn't find this thread earlier. I have a 2000 Mustang and I did the same you guys are doing. I ripped out the AC and moved it down to the bottom and placed my screen where the Radio and AC slots use to be. Worked on it for a good 2 years and finished it about 6 months ago.

    That spot is perfect for a 7 inch screen. I tried placing my computer behind the screen and it was VERY tight on space. I even created a custom computer case for it to reduce size and I found that it is very difficult to work with (Later scrapped when the blue amp case came out). I Even removed that metal brace in the back, but its still a very tight space to place everything. Also when you want to do upgrades itís a pain to have to remove your screen and such to get to the computer. But if you do put the computer behind there, make sure you address over heating cause I would have a problem when I turned on my heater. It gets very hot in that area with the heater on, screen running and, especially if you keep the original amp in there like I did.
    PROGRESS [==========-] 99.9% <- Are we ever really actually done with our carPCs?

  2. #42
    Constant Bitrate racerx3165's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specimen
    Wow I don't know why I didn't find this thread earlier. I have a 2000 Mustang and I did the same you guys are doing. I ripped out the AC and moved it down to the bottom and placed my screen where the Radio and AC slots use to be. Worked on it for a good 2 years and finished it about 6 months ago.
    Phase 1:Well lets see it, i already removed the amp behind there since i wired up a pioneer till i get the whole PC thing working. Lotsa room but im thinking of putting my Slot Load DVD, Power Supply, and all other small items i can tuck in there. then the Mobo and HD in the Armrest, and an USB 2.0 External HD in the glovebox. Then in the Armrest i plan on putting some sort of remote/volume control and maybe a ball mouse. I plan on mounting all the amps under the rear deck and the subs in boots. I am trying to keep as much room as possible in the trunk (got 2 kids) So far i got most everything gutted and waiting, Boot 1 is still hardening 1 more layer then im going to move the Amp up to the bottom of the Rear Deck along with the Crossovers for the rear Components, once i get the H-Pipe on and car is running again Once Phase 1: is complete then i will start on
    Phase 2: I would also like to put a PS2 somewhere, i was thinking of under the passenger seat. And possibly 5-7in. in the headrests fot the kids. They are hardly ever in the car except for maybe 30 minutes a day on the way to and from daycare, so that will be on the back burner.
    Phase 3: Will be the rest of the 5.0L
    Phase 4: Body and Wheels
    Phase 5: All other things And will possibly never End
    Cars
    1994 Mustang GT Punch 240.4 2 12" Kicker Comp SOLD :(

    2006 Suzuki Aerio Sx Kicker KX 650.4 RE 10

    2003 Eddie Bauer Expedition DVD - Navigation Package Traded in for 2008 XL-7 Limited

    Car PC
    Planning

  3. #43
    Constant Bitrate racerx3165's Avatar
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    Finally Finally Finally, the stang was fixed, funny thing is i got the free Fuel pump fuel filter idle air motor regulator from Pep Boys and put the new H-Pipe on and all that didn't work. Took it to a ASE certified Mech friend of mine and 50$ later its running great. Still got a small fuel leak and exhaust leak too though. Funny thing is now I'm even further behind cause of stupid Black Friday Sales. But i did get a PC for my daughter for 250$ so most of my X-Mas Shopping is done hehhehe now just the boy. So anyways i need to get a good USB 2.0 case anyone got any suggestions, and also i'm looking for a sub 50$ P3 mobo for my p3 933 processor from an old Compaq. I got the fiberglass for my case and all i need to get the ball rolling is the mobo.
    Cars
    1994 Mustang GT Punch 240.4 2 12" Kicker Comp SOLD :(

    2006 Suzuki Aerio Sx Kicker KX 650.4 RE 10

    2003 Eddie Bauer Expedition DVD - Navigation Package Traded in for 2008 XL-7 Limited

    Car PC
    Planning

  4. #44
    Constant Bitrate Specimen's Avatar
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    Sorry it took me a while to post the pictures. Very busy with work and working on my own Front end software

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    PROGRESS [==========-] 99.9% <- Are we ever really actually done with our carPCs?

  5. #45
    Low Bitrate schpanky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specimen
    Sorry it took me a while to post the pictures. Very busy with work and working on my own Front end software

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    Looks really nice, what's the process to moving the A/C controls?
    1995 Ford Mustang Convertible
    DSATX | Shuttle XPC SN41G2Bv2 | 619GL-70NP | CF 1.6 (which is still unusable in the car!)

  6. #46
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    Looks great! Looks like you purchased the headrest bezel and molded that the to the center bezel? How did you find this? Do you think it would have been better/worse to just use the original screen bezel?
    1997 Mustang GTS "Jenna"

    VIA SP13000, 7" Xenarc TSV, 200GB, 'modified' M2-ATX, 1GB DDR400/3200, BU-353. RoadRunner + LSXVoid

  7. #47
    Constant Bitrate racerx3165's Avatar
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    yah know that is like 95% identical to the way im hoping mine ends up looking Beautiful work i hope mine turns out that well.
    Cars
    1994 Mustang GT Punch 240.4 2 12" Kicker Comp SOLD :(

    2006 Suzuki Aerio Sx Kicker KX 650.4 RE 10

    2003 Eddie Bauer Expedition DVD - Navigation Package Traded in for 2008 XL-7 Limited

    Car PC
    Planning

  8. #48
    Constant Bitrate Specimen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schpanky
    Looks really nice, what's the process to moving the A/C controls?
    ummm, process?!?! there isn't really a process to do that no good place to mount it. A lot of fiddling around but how I did it was bolt a 90 angle metal brackets to some plastic on the bottom that the AC unit rests on and then had 3 inch bolts extend out from the brackets so that they matched up with the original holes on the sides of the AC face. Sorry I donít have a picture of it. But next time I have to tear out my dash Iíll try to take pictures of what I did.

    This is rough drawing of what I did. I know its hard without an actual pic but hope it helps a little. I have two brackets on each side to the AC face. I had to use long bolts to the AC cause of all the AC conections.

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    PROGRESS [==========-] 99.9% <- Are we ever really actually done with our carPCs?

  9. #49
    Constant Bitrate Specimen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miles
    Looks great! Looks like you purchased the headrest bezel and molded that the to the center bezel? How did you find this? Do you think it would have been better/worse to just use the original screen bezel?
    The reason why I did it that way cause my first screen was a xenarc, one of the first the produced about 2 years ago and it was poorly made. When I first got it it would work only if the cables were in a certain position so instead or returning it like I should have I opened it up to start molding the plastic and when I finished it worked for 2 months off and on and then it eventually died on me. The internal video cable wouldnít connect properly to the PC board. So I bought a new screen and was going to replace the new faceplate with the previous molded one and it turned out the new one with the IR sensor is molded differently than the original I had. So instead of having to go through that again, I decided not mold the faceplate again. To me it was a pain to take the plastic off to mold it and go through all that work only to have a chance it might not work again.

    I got the headrest mold at http://store.karpc.com/cgi-bin/cp-ap...&ref=700shroud
    PROGRESS [==========-] 99.9% <- Are we ever really actually done with our carPCs?

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specimen
    The reason why I did it that way cause my first screen was a xenarc, one of the first the produced about 2 years ago and it was poorly made. When I first got it it would work only if the cables were in a certain position so instead or returning it like I should have I opened it up to start molding the plastic and when I finished it worked for 2 months off and on and then it eventually died on me. The internal video cable wouldnít connect properly to the PC board. So I bought a new screen and was going to replace the new faceplate with the previous molded one and it turned out the new one with the IR sensor is molded differently than the original I had. So instead of having to go through that again, I decided not mold the faceplate again. To me it was a pain to take the plastic off to mold it and go through all that work only to have a chance it might not work again.

    I got the headrest mold at http://store.karpc.com/cgi-bin/cp-ap...&ref=700shroud
    Makes sense to me. I don't have the screen yet, but think I'm going to order the headrest cover now and do a similar sort of thing.

    Last question - do you find that the screen is at a good height being under the AC vents? Are the AC controls accessible being at the bottom?

    I have a 5 spd and hope that the AC controls won't be too bothersome down there. Actually, thinking about it I only drive my stang in the summer, and the windows are down so
    1997 Mustang GTS "Jenna"

    VIA SP13000, 7" Xenarc TSV, 200GB, 'modified' M2-ATX, 1GB DDR400/3200, BU-353. RoadRunner + LSXVoid

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