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Thread: 94 Mustang GT

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specimen
    Na, I installed a rear cam last weekend, but It didn't require me to take off the dash. I could pop it off and take a few pics. I'm in the process of moving though so it might not be anytime soon. I admit the way I did it was a hacked up way and theres probably a better way to do it.
    Thinking the same thing, but it doesnt matter since no one sees it right? I like the fact that yours looks flush against the bezel (ie. you can't see the white tabs that stick out on the side of the AC panel/controls).

    Well if it crosses your mind and the dash is off, I am curious. Thanks dude
    1997 Mustang GTS "Jenna"

    VIA SP13000, 7" Xenarc TSV, 200GB, 'modified' M2-ATX, 1GB DDR400/3200, BU-353. RoadRunner + LSXVoid

  2. #62
    Registered User cliffloehr's Avatar
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    Your design is inspiring!

    I've been collecting parts for the last few weeks and have search the Internet for the best looking construction... you win!

    I started ripping out my radio this past weekend and fabricating the metal box to house the CarPC. I fully expect it all to fit inside the dash-board cavity created by making the same mods you've done to your car.

    I'm using a Mini-ITX motherboard which is just about (within an 1/8") the same size as the 6-disk changer I'm removing. Aside from including a GPS, DVD burner, WiFi card, and a RadioShark, I'm installing an OBDII interface from http://obddiagnostics.com/


    Thanks for plowing the way, now more may follow with much less effort.

    Interested to see where your sticking the Traction/Defrost/Fog Light switches.

  3. #63
    Low Bitrate schpanky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cliffloehr
    I'm using a Mini-ITX motherboard which is just about (within an 1/8") the same size as the 6-disk changer I'm removing. Aside from including a GPS, DVD burner, WiFi card, and a RadioShark, I'm installing an OBDII interface from http://obddiagnostics.com/
    my system is mounted in trunk but otherwise the wiring is much the same as both you and racerx's vehicle, but I think that you both are geniuses.

    Does that OBDII interface work with the 94/95 mustangs?
    It seems to list only 96+ compatibility
    1995 Ford Mustang Convertible
    DSATX | Shuttle XPC SN41G2Bv2 | 619GL-70NP | CF 1.6 (which is still unusable in the car!)

  4. #64
    Registered User cliffloehr's Avatar
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    according to http://www.actron.com/media/categori...art_CP9015.pdf the 94/94 Mustangs are OBD II complient so the Scan Tool "should" work.

  5. #65
    Registered User cliffloehr's Avatar
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    Here's my box so far.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  6. #66
    Newbie Blue_Night's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specimen
    I was thinking on moving the AC like you did and move the Fog, Tlock and Defog switches down where the lighter is, but i dont know how hard is it to move the AC, where there any problems? I mean did the cables reached fine? could you elaborate a bit more on this step thanks.

    Note: can i start my worklog posting my ideas?

  7. #67
    Constant Bitrate Specimen's Avatar
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    I have a 2000 mustang and things changed in 2001 so I'm not sure if everything is the same behind the console. The 2000 has 2 single dins without the 3 switches and the 2001 has a double din with the 3 switches you are talking about. I'm not sure how to relocate the 3 switches but the AC controls can be moved but it is a little work.

    There is a cable connected to the temperature knob similar to a brake cable on a bike. It’s very hard to bend this cable and move it and you can’t detach the controls that easily from this cable (the hardest part about moving the panel is this cable cause it doesn’t give you any leeway on positioning and bending this cable). It probably can be removed, but I kept all the cables connected to the panel cause I didn’t want to chance it not working when I put it back together again.

    Now the cables that connect to the knob that controls on/off and which vents to be used are easier to work with. Those cables are pneumatic so when you move them be sure not to pinch those cables when you finally place the panel to your liking or your AC won’t be able to switch the different vents to use. Also try not to break the air hose seal on these (cut the tube, or break the connector) cause then you will have to replace the pneumatic tubes and that will be a pain.

    The last knob for fan speed I believe was just an electrical connection. I think I just disconnected all the electrical connectors so that only the pneumatic tubes and the bike cable were connected.

    Now when I did this about 2 years ago, it wasn’t as easy as just moving the panel down. The cables didn’t reach cause they came from behind and over that metal bar in the back and all the cables were in the way where I was going to place my custom computer case. So I had to fish the panel over, back, behind the bar then back under the bar so that the cables would then end up under the metal bar. That was hard to do without breaking connectors and scratching the panel face. Once you do that, everything else was easier to work with cause you have more slack in the cables.

    Eventually I cut that metal bar out cause I needed more room for my case (but you still need to fish the panel behind the cables attached to that bar. Turned out that even with my small case (mine was smaller than yours cliffloehr) there still wasn’t enough room cause all the VGA, USB and other cables sticking out of the case took up more room. Turns out I had to take off the panel a lot just to fix a loose connection and I had overheating problems too especially with the heater on. I Also had booting problems and computer freezing problems. So I moved mine to a VroomPC case outside from behind the screen and I haven’t had a problem yet going on a year plus.

    Remember that the Screen gets very hot, the stock amp under all of this gets very hot and the heater will blow hot air into where your case is and there is almost no other air circulation. Even if you put fans in your case, you’ll just be sucking in air hotter than what your case is producing. So if you decided to put your case in there, you might need to use an air tube to attach to the case fan to suck in air from the car cabin or from out side.

    These are the problems that I faced when I did all of this. I had no help from anyone so I learned a lot of this from trial and error. If you guys have anymore questions or are unclear about something please post. And I will try to get some pictures to help out.
    PROGRESS [==========-] 99.9% <- Are we ever really actually done with our carPCs?

  8. #68
    Registered User cliffloehr's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your comments... this is very helpful!

    Quote Originally Posted by Specimen
    very hot
    You bring up an excellent point and it should be addressed. My design is very tight will likely overheat. I'll look into the cooling issue BEFORE putting it into the car. Maybe I could tackle cooling the screen at the same time.

  9. #69
    Constant Bitrate Specimen's Avatar
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    let me know what you come up with. I was going to do a cooling system, but I dropped the whole idea cause I didn't want to have to take the whole panel off everytime I needed to get to the computer. So I just pulled the computer out and I'm going to mount it somewhere else.
    PROGRESS [==========-] 99.9% <- Are we ever really actually done with our carPCs?

  10. #70
    Newbie Blue_Night's Avatar
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    thanks dude, i was thinking on moving the AC behind my screen and have my screen flip down, and put my CD receiver where the AC is. thanks for the info...

    As for teh cooling I was thinking on having two fans throwing wind towards teh passenger side, where a fan blows the hot air, I might also add heat sinks tot he screen.

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