Thread: 97 Ford F-150

Finally got the ball rolling on my carputer install for my truck.

Parts:
Lillput 8" Touchscreen
Dell Optiplex SFF GX240 (might be switching to something more PSU friendly)
USB 2.0 expansion card
4 port USB hub
Panasonic DVD+/-RW slot load drive
Viper 791XV for protection

I've opted to go with an aftermarket HU and amplifier for my setup, using the aux input on the HU to put the sound through to the speakers.



Update 12/16/05:
Here's the progress so far.
http://www.unrealhp.com/fabrication/truck.htm

I prefer to keep my own log of what I do on my own page. It keeps people from having to sift through all the commentary to see the heart of the project.

Edit: Here's the finished dash bezel:


Here's the current console, but I need to figure out how I want to shape the viewable (black) portion of the HVAC controls. Can't really decide.


Update 12/30/05:
I ran into two problems up until this point which further delayed things. First, my sub box I'm building had some clearancing issues with the magnet on my sub. Had to do a little reconstruction there, but I think I'm good to go now.

Second, my lilliput wouldn't power back up after I finished up with all the fabrication work. Turned out the ribbon cable that runs to the monitor buttons was just barely off to the right, causing it not to power up at all. I repositioned it to the left just a tad and it worked perfectly.

Update 1/31/06:
A couple nights ago I finished up installing my Raammat and Ensolite on the floorpan and back of the cab. The outer skins on the doors have a can of Dynashield on each, but its been recommended to me to add another per door. Once I'm done with that I'll make some speaker bezels for the component set, sound deaden the inner door skins, and fab up some tweeter pods for the plastic piece that goes behind the side mirrors. I'm kind of procrastinating about getting this thing done since its winter right now.

Update 2/6/06:
Still haven't finished up the sound deadening, but I've got all the wires ran now. Before doing this I didn't realize just how much stuff there is to run, but its quite a bit. I sold the Keypower PSU and I'm switching to an inverter due to Dell's proprietary wiring (and space in my case), and I should have an M1-ATX coming in soon to power all the external stuff.

Update 2/13/06:
All wires are now ran, but I opted to ditch the M1-ATX in favor of a DSATX. I'll use the inverter for hooking up an X-box or some other game system for long drives... or whatever else I may run into that needs an AC outlet. Picked up a Peak brand 400w constant, 800w max inverter from Menards ($25) to serve that purpose.

Update 3/27/06:
Everything is pretty much done now, just sorting out some minor issues getting the DSATX to play nicely with my Dell PC. Nothing's ever simple!

I think I'm happy with the audio system for now... almost. I'm only running the Rainbow components and the ID8 and it actually sounds very nice. I don't think I'm even going to use the other 2 channels of my amp.


Update 4/1/06:
Figured I'd add a picture of the sub in with this stuff. There's no loss of storage space with this, but I did a fair amount of hidden customization to the console to make it fit. The ID8 sub isn't exactly a small framed subwoofer, so it needed a little extra space when compared with, say, an MTX 8". There's more pictures of how I modified the skeleton portion on my webpage linked at the top, but I did not include pictures of the modified console skin. All I did was cut off the part of the console that was designed to be screwed together, and I plastic epoxied it together instead (for about 4"-5" around) where the box needed clearance.


Additional installation info:
To fit the screen and DVD drive into the dash:
You DO have to remove the black plastic framework that holds the radio and HVAC stuff in place. Its just a matter of removing a few screws and partially removing the upper portion of the dash. Its really not that hard.

To relocate the HVAC module to the console:
You DO NOT have to extend the vacuum lines at all. The way they're routed from the factory snakes them around toward the passenger side, then back toward the drivers side, and ultimately in the area just above the gas pedal. All this snaking around leaves you plenty of slack to relocate them without extending the vacuum lines. HOWEVER, you DO have to extend a number of wires. Make sure you solder and make good connections with these because you don't want to have to do it over again. And please make sure you use adequate wire for this. Do not, under any circumstances, use a smaller gauge wire than what is already used in the harness.

To install an Expedition console into an F-150:
Its really pretty simple once you figure out how it goes together. There's two metal plates (not in any of the pictures) that bolt to the floor of the truck. They slide over the same studs that your factory F-150 console used, so there's nothing special there. Once you bolt those down, you set the (white) console skeleton into the brackets, and slide it forward to clip it in place. Once thats done you slide the outer console skin over the top, making sure all the clips slid into their appropriate slot, then you start putting the bolts back in to hold it all together.
Note: The console itself does NOT rattle from the sub.