1998 Mustang GT - New install
| Most recent update: 09.28.06
| Updates at end of thread with link to pics
Just starting a new install into a 1998 Mustang GT. Pics will follow soon. Two poor photos of car at end of this post. Components installed so far include...
Original list created 12/31/05. New mods the date they were added beside them...
- 1.3 GHZ AMD Athlon/256MB/20GB HD/Radeon 7000
- Soundcard: Turtle Beach Riviera
Input: Update 01/15/06!
1 Griffin Powermate
+ disassembled Saitek ST10 joystick (http://www.saitekusa.com/usa/prod/st90.htm)
+ MouseWheel software (http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...t=50478&page=1)
iDrive for less than $50
- Frontend: To be determined
- Navigation/GPS: CoPilot laptop ver. 8 with Delorme Earthmate USB GPS
- Audio: Winamp
- Additional software:
MouseWheel Interface (MWI) by Zorro
- SP7 Touchscreen (pending a backlight upgrade of some sort!)
- Headunit: Panasonic 8100
3 RCA preouts with seperate adjustable sub output
7 band equalizer
Built in adjustable high and low pass crossover
25 band spectrum analyzer display
1 AUX RCA input, multiple Panasonic CD changer inputs
Front: Ford Premium Audio 6x8 with Cerwin Vega Component tweeters in the sill panels
Rear: Ford Premium Audio 6x8
Sub: 12" x 2 Rockford Fosgate Punch HF - sealed box
Main: 60x4 RMS Pioneer Premier
Sub: 360 x 1 RMS Pioneer Premier
Monster RCA cable...don't worry, bought at a deep discount!
Other car mods:
- Eiback lowering springs
- Steeda Underdrive pulleys
- Steeda shifter
- K&N Air filter and removed air silencer
- Latemodel Restoration Supply billet shifter knob
- Smoke/tinted headlight covers
- K&N Air filter and removed air silencer
- Rare factory striped hood/wheel package
--> 5mph wreck with both airbags deployed ;-(
--> $3200 repair
--> coweled fiberglass hood that blew through windshield
--> $1500 repair of cowled hood
--> coweled hood blew through windshield again (!)
--> $3200 repair with stock hood ;-) No stripe :-(
- Mustang GT insignia in rear 3rd brakelight
- Tires 245/45/17 Firestone Fuzion (great performance for the money!)
09.12.06 Update with pics
The screen, suffered another failure(!), but I have NO idea why this time. Possibly a loose connection, but I was so mad at it that I decided to postpone my screen project for a little while due to the continuing frustration it was causing me, and turn my attention to other important issues. So, I've been working on:
1) Rewiring the car with 4ga power and ground cable and routing the various signal cables, power cables, and speaker wires properly.
2) Buliding an amp rack behind my fold down rear seats and finishing installation of the amps.
3) Fabbing/reworking console trim pieces to finalize my HVAC control relocation and return to an OEM appearance.
Pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/cyanmauv...stallationPics - mouse over for captions.
So, currently I'm sort of in a holding pattern. My original PC processor, motherboard, and hard drive was fried by the M2-ATX (and I _really_ don't think it was my fault after reading the multiple stories of identical failures that keep cropping up around here), and I am really reconsidering reinstalling a PC based system. The Mac Mini is looking REALLY attractive right now...it can now run Mac OS X and Windows XP simultaneously, has that fantastic form factor, can be purchased with a nice, fat three year warranty, and will fit wherever (almost) I want to put it. Oh, and it will also run StreetDeck (which looks to be pretty nice).
09.26.06 update with pics
LEDs have one primary disadvantage...they are point sources of light, and so require diffusion to result in even illumination of a screen placed in front of them. Unfortunately, sheet-style translucent diffusion that is sufficent to provide even screen illumination also significantly cuts light output (highly counterproductive).
So, I researched clear diffusing lenses that could be placed over each LED to optically diffuse the light near the source rather than diffusing it by obstructing it with a translucent material on the back of the screen. LEDsupply.com offers many different lenses of this sort, which can be found at http://www.ledsupply.com/20mm.php
The most promising lens for this application seemed to be one that diffuses the light from a Luxeon into a long, narrow rectangular pattern, with an 80 degree span horizontally and only 10 degrees vertically. The data sheet is: http://www.ledsupply.com/docs/L2-Optics-Flare.pdf Scroll to the second page to see the lens distribution graphic or look at the last two pics in this post. While this lens seemed to be a viable option, it is also fairly expensive, and would add $40 to the cost of the project ($3.50 each x 12 LEDs). In addition, they would require that the screen be placed at least 2.5 inches from the backlights...making the entire assembly a bit thicker than I had hoped for. So...back to the drawing board.
I reconsidered (again) the advantages of using CCFLs instead of LEDs. CCFLs provide even illumination along their length and so require much less diffusion than the point source LEDs. The reason I had abandoned pursuing their use in the past was because I wasn't sure that they could be effectively cooled. However, after attempting to do theoretical thermal calculations on both the LEDs and the CCFLs, I decided that the only way to determine if I could effectively deal with the heat that either source produced was to build a prototype backlight with each illumination method and measure their heat output. So...since I had the CCFLs on hand and the LEDs are a $120 order and 5 days shipping away, I decided to try the CCFLs first.
I built a test rig (pics below) with two 13 watt CCFL lights, turned them on, and monitored the temperature for an hour. Links to all pics can be found in my sig, and a description of the hard drive cooler I am using as a heatsink/active cooling can be found in my posts above. To my surprise, the heatsink was never more than lukewarm to the touch, and the internal temperature stabilized at 101 degrees after one hour. External air temp was approximately 80 degrees. The next steps:
1) Add two more 13 watt bulbs to the enclosure (for a total of 56 watts of CCFL light) and run the test again. This will likely be the amount of light I will need to sufficiently illuminate the LCD in sunlight.
2) Test the rig at higher ambient temperatures...similar to those found in a car.
3) More clearly describe the methods used and testing I plan to perform.