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Thread: 2001 Honda Civic Aopen Pandora MiniPC

  1. #21
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    Dec 2005
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    109

    Power button ghetto mod

    I figured out that the Lilli remote was working right from...wait for this...the guy at Radio Shack ! I pointed my cam phone at the remote, hit the power button and you can see the light coming out of the remote on the phone screen. Evidently cam phones pick up infrared light (among others). Never knew it.

    So, I got the resistor/capacitor to do Coyote's auto-on mod as well as a two-prong replacement IR sensor (the Lilli is three-prong, so I was taking a chance that it would work).

    First, I resoldered the original Lilli IR sensor to the board and tried the remote. Nothing. I definitely fried the sensor. So, I took apart the Lilli to take a chance on Coyote's auto-on mod. I was skittish about doing this since I had already fried a piece of the Lilli with my amateur soldering skills. When I got the board apart, I couldn't locate the place on the board that Coyote referenced in his mod. It drove me nuts for about 1/2 hour. So, when I started searching again, I found somebody (sorry, forgot the name) who just taped their power button down in the on position. I'm thinking "it's ghetto, but it should work". So, I discarded the Coyote auto-on solder job and taped up the power button real good. Of course, it worked. Now the Lilli auto powers with the ignition switch

    Hooked everything back up again and stuffed it in the dash. Everything still works. So, I set the amplifier gains for the components and subs. Personally I think it sounds cleaner than with the old Alpine HU...it also seems to play louder. I'm thinking it's because the M-Audio soundcard gives a cleaner, higher voltage signal than my old Alpine. Real happy with that .

    I took it for a drive and tested the Nav...awesome!

    Maybe I'll work on the skin tonight. I also need to clean up my MP3 library...somehow I got about 1,000 duplicate songs in there.

  2. #22
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    Next Steps

    SRS light is on...Ugh . It's happened before with an audio install. Got to check all fuses...hopefully that's the cause. Otherwise, pull dash bezel and see what's going on. Then, find a friendly Honda dealer to reset the code.

    Just went for a ride and the first thing that the backseat passenger did on getting into the car was kick the crap out of the computer under the seat. He didn't know it was there. I've got it stuffed as far under the seat as possible, but it illustrates that maybe I should relocate it to the trunk.

    Next steps (kind of my to do list):
    * FP Skin
    * DTR amp turn-on to eliminate 3 thumps (one pretty loud )
    * Fix sleep mode so the computer doesn't power off every time ignition is off...this has got to be just a P1900 jumper setting.
    * Install XM

  3. #23
    Variable Bitrate nameeri's Avatar
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    Cool deal man, cant wait to see pics when its all closed up! Post em if you get em!

  4. #24
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    It's been bugging me for hours, but a web search finally reminded me of the probably cause for my SRS light. If you turn the ignition ON when the seats are out (unplugged from the two harnesses), then the computer throws an SRS code. Found a way to reset the SRS light, so I'll try it tomorrow. Hopefully this is the cause.

  5. #25
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    SRS light is reset!! 0l33l There's nothing you can't accomplish with a pair of needle nose pliers and a paperclip

  6. #26
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    Here's a pic of the screen installed and running skinless FP in the light.



    It does get washed out to the point of unusable when sunlight hits it directly. The tint on the windows protects it from washout most of the time.

    I've got an extra screen bezel that I want to work on since now I have some experience with this SEM plastic stuff. I've thought of some techniques to make the surface look better.

    The area below the screen (with cigarette lighter and alarm LED) is intriguing. It's not deep enough to hold the computer or soundcard. Maybe down the road I'll relocate climate control down there and put in a bigger screen (10-12") in the upper dash.

  7. #27
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    Skin Installed

    I installed proTONEd's FP MMI eXtnd skin tonight. I like the look and feel. Still trying to figure out a few things...how to get the DVD player to run in the skin (might be a FP setting), whether there's a mute button...silly little crap like that. Can't wait to see the day version tomorrow. It looks promising as a solution to daytime display problems.

  8. #28
    Variable Bitrate Goose's Avatar
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    looking very nice, you shoud use more time to get more smooth surface of fiberglass.

    Had same problem. I used 10 hours to get it really smooth
    Project done in: [####################] - 85%
    - Custom center console
    - Custom trunk
    Se my project here

  9. #29
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    XM, DTR...and switching front ends

    I finally got a chance to make some progress on two things...DTR amp turn-on to eliminate the thumps and getting XM to work. Neither is quite done yet, but I made some good progress today. Unfortunately, I'm traveling for the next week, so nothing more will get done until at least next weekend.

    I got my xm direct cable from hybrid-mobile and installed it in place of my homemade cable. I actually got signal and very muddy, muted sound. This was a first, so I'm going to say that I didn't do a good job with the homemade cable. But...I'm not able to get signal at all now. Honestly, I'm completely frustrated with Frodo's XM app and don't really trust that it's working properly. I'm actually frustrated with all of the frodo stuff because nothing seems to be supported anymore. I'm probably going to switch over to Centrafuse or RoadRunner when I get a chance. Seems like there's much better support. And, Centrafuse seems open to supporting VST plug-ins (for sound shaping apps like the software-based 1/3 octave EQ I've wanted for years). Back on topic...I feel like getting any XM signal is progress and I'm hopeful that I can tweak some software settings this week and get it working.

    Also, made significant progress with turning on my amp via the DTR lead from a serial output. I installed the amp_control service and it causes 7 volts to be output on the DTR line of the serial cable...even with a USB-serial converter. 7 volts appears after windows has completely powered up, so thumps will be eliminated when I get it fully installed. It also removes the voltage as soon as windows starts shut-down. However, my pandora only seems to output 7 volts...not the 12 I need to turn on my amp. I need to get a relay that will switch a 12 volt line when 6 volts are applied to it. The radio shack relay won't do the trick...it needs 12 volts. The transistor method doesn't work either...not enough voltage. So, I've got to order the relay from Mouser and wait to get it all installed...again a next weekend project.

  10. #30
    Variable Bitrate nameeri's Avatar
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    I have RoadRunner with XM and it works perfectly. The only Issue that i have is that sometimes when I come out of hibernation, if i was on the XM screen when going into hibernation, then it doesnt play. However, as long as im on some other screen, it plays fine when I switch back to the XM screen. Its not a big deal and its a simple workaround. I am pretty happy with it.
    ----------------------------------------------
    Civiputer: Dont have one anymore, but here is what is used to be!

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