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Thread: 2001 Honda Civic Aopen Pandora MiniPC

  1. #31
    Newbie monkeyBox's Avatar
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    I'm planning on doing something like this in my '01 Civic. Is that bezel the factory installed one? Or did you get a different one? I was measuring the space inside mine where my stereo used to be, and it was 7.5" x 4.5". By my calculations I could easily get an 8" (open-frame) screen in there. What are your thoughts?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeyBox
    I'm planning on doing something like this in my '01 Civic. Is that bezel the factory installed one? Or did you get a different one? I was measuring the space inside mine where my stereo used to be, and it was 7.5" x 4.5". By my calculations I could easily get an 8" (open-frame) screen in there. What are your thoughts?
    I got the bezel from an '05 Special Edition. It's built to hold a double-din sized honda head unit. When I took out my stock '01 LX bezel, the internal and external opening dimensions were the same as the '05. Only difference was the '05 external opening is rounded...my '01 had edges that I think are designed to hold the "adapter" that fits a single DIN head and the small pocket below it.

    Either bezel holds a 7" lilliput relatively well without enlarging the opening. I did, however, have to cut the back side of the bezel and I wasn't able to retain the lilliputs front-panel buttons (look back in my worklog to see the details of what I cut and where I put the button panel). I doubt you could fit an 8" screen in there unless you either relocated the bottom climate control buttons or only did away with the LCD housing. There's just not enough real estate on the back side of the bezel. Take yours apart and you'll see what I mean.

    Now for the bad news . I have Arizona-legal tinted windows (this is about the darkest you can get your windows tinted in any state) and I still have serious problems with glare. The screen is recessed about 2 inches into the dash and it's still a problem when sunlight shines straight down on the car. Not sure what the solution is. There's this thread that talks about major brightness enhancement/glare reduction by changing out some of the films...about a $400 upgrade and we haven't seen the results of the demo yet. I toyed with fabricating something into the lower part of the dash in front of the shift lever. This would probably help the sunlight problem, but it would not be convenient for using while driving...too low in the dash.

  3. #33
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    what % tints do you have? I have 20% and live in MD.. plan on gettin the same screen and Pandora within a month or so

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean
    what % tints do you have? I have 20% and live in MD.. plan on gettin the same screen and Pandora within a month or so
    Don't know the %, but it's very dark on all 5 windows. AZ legal is a lot darker than VA...I've had legal limit in both states. Somehow my AZ tint passed inspection when I moved back to VA last summer .

  5. #35
    Variable Bitrate nameeri's Avatar
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    Quack, check out this thread also for the glare and sunlight readability problem:

    Transreflective Upgrade - The Review
    ----------------------------------------------
    Civiputer: Dont have one anymore, but here is what is used to be!

  6. #36
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    Haven't been able to work much on the Pandora lately and the lack of XM is killing me. I'm thinking about installing Centrafuse instead of Frodoplayer...seems support for Frodoplayer is slowly disappearing.

    I have been able to find a solution for the DTR Amp Turn-on to get rid of my turn-on thumps. I bought the PAC Low Voltage Trigger from cardomain. Should get it next week. This should give me a 12V output that it activated by my 6V DTR signal when the service is activated. In the meantime, I installed a switch to manually switch the turn-on lead to the amps. I'll keep the switch even after I get DTR up and running...it will be a perfect Valet switch for the sound system.

  7. #37
    Raw Wave tj!2k4's Avatar
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    Wait til the next release of Centrafuse [1.7] since it'll require a complete reinstall anyway. Also, XM should be working properly in that release.

  8. #38
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    4-day (and counting) project

    I've spent the last four days in the garage rebuilding the trunk. My original plan was to install a false floor to hold 2 10" subs and the spare tire in the original spare tire well. Then, I decided I would have plenty of space to install a new equipment rack, thereby giving me a better mounting option for the computer, amplifier, crossovers, etc. and much easier access to everything for tuning. Then, I realized that I would have two compartments left over that would be perfect for storing my golf stuff (the golf stuff is critical since I play for a living and always take this stuff with me).

    So, the project suffered from engineering "scope creep" from the outset, but since it made sense to do all this at the same time I jumped right in. The biggest challenge was reinstalling the computer...this time doing it absolutely right. All the wiring for the computer, amp, etc. is organized and routed on the mounting board to minimize noise. I'm happy to say mission accomplished on the noise. I had a bit of alternator whine that is completely gone now. This took me the better part of a day. Most of another day was spent fiberglassing the enclosure into the back half of the spare tire well to hold two RF Punch 10 subs. I installed the component rack (which hinges up to reveal the spare) yesterday and finished building/installing the subs today. Fired it up and...wow! This is exactly what I was looking for in a sub system. It's basic, solid bottom end that complements my Boston Pro 6.53 set up front perfectly.

    I've still got about a day of work to finish everything up...need to build covers for the 3 compartments as well as a grill for the subs...and carpet the whole thing. Once it's all done, I'll post some pics. Taking pics isn't a priority quite yet .

    The big challenge is going to be tuning the whole thing. Just the basics...setting the gains...is going to be a challenge. I've got to optimize the volume control, gain on the m-audio soundcard and gains on the amp. JL Audio has a tutorial about setting the gains on their amps by measuring output voltage at the speaker leads. I was hoping for something like this for my Alpine amp...no luck finding it yet. Plus, I have the added complexity of a gain control on my soundcard.

  9. #39
    Newbie monkeyBox's Avatar
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    Wow.. all that in a Civic? Well done! Can't wait to see the pics.

  10. #40
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    Well, I decided to throw in the towel and go back to a head unit-based system. I miss my navigation, but needed something simpler for all my travel for work. I'm selling the computer in three parts in the For Sale section:



    I will also sell my dash bezel to anybody who is interested. It needs work, but fits a lilli 629 perfectly.

    I'm not happy to be getting rid of my carputer...it was a project that I enjoyed. I simply don't have the time to devote to it anymore. Hopefully all this stuff will find a good home.

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