2002 Mitsubishi Magna VR-X - 15.4" ultrabright LCD, fabricating...

**NiSlo** · 07-08-2007, 05:51 AM

Wow. That's a big bloody screen!
What was the reaosn behind the change?
I'mm interested to see how you go with the fabbing of the new bezel with the straight egdes of the screen and the curvature of the dash centre console to work with.

Keep us posted!

**BiGGy** · 07-08-2007, 07:17 AM

Im going to keep it as flush as possible keeping to the contour of the vinyl dash, but there will be curves and dips involved, ill try and keep it as flush as possible though to keep the OEM look. It will take allot of hand sanding to get it right, and it will dip to the center of the screen.

Reason behind the change is having a daylight readable screen. Having a console sized screen leaves endless skinning possibilities including split screen, multitasking etc. And how many people can say they have a 15.4" wide screen fabed into there dash? I also was getting sick of the small 7"er and just wanted to go bigger, and higher.

**monkeyracer** · 07-08-2007, 01:15 PM

Did you ever fix the power wire through the fire wall?
You will have an issue if you don't. I had a Mitsu Galant (7G) and did this, after a couple months of bumpy roads, etc, the sheathing on the power wire wore through and once it touched the metal of the car, sparks flew, everything powered down, fuses went, etc. It took a lot of time and patience to get it all back up and running.

Imagine the hole you cut as a round knife, the metal edges are sharp, and it may not happen right away, but it will end up happening. Better to be safe than sorry.

Also, I really like what you are doing here, keep up the good work!
Can't wait to see what the new project will look like! I have a huge soft spot for Mitsus from that era, the Galant VR4 is one of my faves.

**BiGGy** · 07-09-2007, 05:25 AM

I drilled the hole oversized on purpose and filled around the wire with silicon holding it centered and not wearing on anything. its been like 15 months now, 30,000km and not a problem. The VR4 is a good car, but rare to see, specially unmodified. I see allot at local rally events.

**monkeyracer** · 07-09-2007, 11:14 AM

ok, the silicon will work. Basically you just need to keep the sheathing away from the naked metal edge.

**BiGGy** · 07-13-2007, 03:20 AM

^^yes i fully understand that. Thanks for your concern.

Started the bezel fabrication, ill add a brief description each update instead of each picture. Questions are welcome.

I masked off the area around the dash contour with scotch tape, then covered in foil and dabed around the edge of the opening with a dry sponge so the foil sits flush. I taped the corners of the foil to stop movement. The first layer will be the one touching the vinyl edge so it needs to be hand sanded down the track, the first layer is rage gold body filler with some resin mixed in. I added a dowel cross support down the bottom Waited for the filler to touch dry then added a couple layers of 225g fiberglass matting to give it some strength. Wait for the fg to fully cure, pulled it off, trimmed it down. Made some wooded cross supports and glued them with hot glue. Fleece stretched, glued and clamped. Out of daylight for today.

**BiGGy** · 07-15-2007, 01:30 AM

I realized today that my climate control unit is never going to fit into the dash with this screen, its just too wide. Its going to have to go into the glovebox, which takes a bit of the OEM feel away

. When I buy a fusion brain I may see if its possible for the carputer have complete control over the air con. Ill also thinking of putting OBD in this upgrade. On the dash, ive decided to put two 5.25" bays. One for a dvd/rw slot load and a fan/temp controller with a useful external volume control. Also got a bt dongle and a mic for phone integration.

I used some scrap pieces of RHS box cut them at 150mm and welded together for the fascia for the 5.25" bays. For the screen I cut out some plate with dimensions exactly to the viewable area I want for the screen which is 329x205. i tacked some handles on to pull it off. Wax and pva applied to the steal where its going to touch the fiberglass for easy removal. wet out the cloth, wait for cure, added one layer each side, waited for cure, removed the steal and trimmed it back. Will add several more layers I would think, to stop any flex.

Also we are in the process of moving house (down the road). So im not starting led brightness upgrade till im nice a settled in the new house.