OK, I did some reading on the ABS solvent method. It is the best for me. I found this thread regarding ABS cement, and it will be perfect I think. I'll pick some up tomorrow and post some results...
EDIT: I just realized that thread I linked to is over a year old! LOL, still good info, but now I wonder why more people don't do it this way...
I did the first trial of abs cement today. Just finished it, so it is drying and we'll see how it worked. I had almost no gap between the lcd bezel and the double din kit, so it probably didn't soak through. I will do the front once the back is dry. Here are some pics of the back sealed with abs cement...
EDIT: I pulled off the masking tape from the front. The lcd bezel seems to be welded in firm, after it cures completely. I will add a little more abs cement to the front, but the stuff applied from the back seeped into the cracks fine. In hindsight, I should have made the gap a little bigger between the lcd bezel and the double din kit, then the abs cement would fill better. This will be fine though too...
Why don't you dril a hole in the AC-housing next to the condensor, put a hose in it and fit that on the computer housing if you tap in the right place you always have cold air (unless the AC is off:D )
What happens when the heat is on though?
Wait, do you mean a hose from a place where only cool air is going to be? I'm confused... LOL...
The system is designed to not only cool the air but also dry it, there is always a flow true the condensor but when you turn on the heat that cold dry air is mixed withe air that run true the heater so the air is warmer but still pretty dry so your windows are clear.
I'm looking into my study material for an example picture
but....cold aircon air in a humid environment will cause water to condense out of the air. could be dangerous.
+1 by the way :D
That's why they call it Automatic-Climate-Control instead of just Air-Conditioning, if you blow in dry air there is nothing in the air to condensate