are you wanting to keep the screens moveable?
OK. First draft thoughts on how to mount the rear monitors up high (if ya don't understand, take a look at my original "kludge" install).
This setup lives in my house...#1 computer monitor mounted on a pole/base/thing that is essentially 1" galvanized(?) steel pipe...an H shape at the base for support, and a single pipe that comes up from the floor to THIS at the top.
The only major changes I'm considerin for the Yacht monitors is a larger diameter pipe (1.5 or 2") for greater support...this one does great but it doesn't have to survive inside a moving vehicle. And a base that I can somehow mount to the floor (bolts). Probably something similar to what's already at the top of the pipe.
The arm the monitor is actually on is identical to the ones that live in The Yacht right now, so those can be reused.
Thoughts?
By the way, if this wasn't said earlier...THIS IS THE PLANNING STAGE so any thoughts, suggestions, ideas where ANY of the above info in this or previous posts is concerned will be greatly appreciated.
are you wanting to keep the screens moveable?
Jan Bennett
FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished
Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!
Originally Posted by BarryWoods
I like that case!
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Nope, in the van they're pretty well locked down (got the bolts cranked as tight as I could get em)Originally Posted by Red GTi VR6
Just got back from gettin the server case. That $99 server case ended up costin me $75+tax.
I promised I'd post this info cuz they have 5 or so left to sell if anyone's interested lemme know.
ok - so then are you wanting to integrate the screens more or keep them the way they are currently?Originally Posted by TheLandYacht
Jan Bennett
FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished
Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!
OK. Edit of above about false floor. Turns out I was wildly offbase about the dimensions of the "AC Control Board".
Actually 6" wide x 10" long x 2" high.
So, a new diagram of "false floor" to reflect that
Three pics of the AC control board as best I could do in the cramped 8" of space I had to work with...kinda hard to maneuver the camera.
KEEP IN MIND THE FOLLOWING IS THE (SOON TO BE) OLD SETUP.
ACboard1 is a closeup as seen from the open side of the box, all of the wiring connections appear to be here.
ACboard2 is from a bit further back. Notice the ratnest of wires going up the wall behind it? Those are all the audio wires etc going to the amps on the next shelf.
ACboard3 is from the side, viewing the passengerside of the box. Notice on the board the connections on your right, the (?)relays on your left. The big grey cable behind it with the black coily ****e around it is the loom that comes outta the floor and goes back to the Air Conditioner on the roof. Also notice, right behind THAT under the red wire and inside the "circle" made by the smaller black coily you can just barely see the "BatCap". The dimensions of that, by the way, is H - 2.72"/ W - 2.88"/ D - 4.23". More on the properties of the BatCap later, as I'm quite enamored of this little beauty.
I did it that way cuz it seemed the simplest/most cost effective at the time. I'd like to keep cost down on the rebuild as much as possible. If you can think of a way to integrate that doesn't increase the cost too much, SURE. Otherwise, probably the way we discussed with the pipe standOriginally Posted by Red GTi VR6
mkay mkay - I'm getting more and more familiar with your set-up now!
I think that the AC controller board should be fairly easy to hide. Should be able to clean up the wiring everywhere quite a bit, which will allow for a more compact install, which is a GOOD thing!
Jan Bennett
FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished
Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!
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