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Thread: 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 Audio Test Lab

  1. #131
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
    What a better place to post my first post. Im going to be doing a HU-less install it looks like. I have a lot of research to do as im a newb to carpters and this forum is overwhelming me. I installed the "holy grail" (not sure if you been on mazda6club forum lately). I was going to use the stock HU but realize now that is silly. I was going to just do a 2 way passive but now am also thinking a 3 way active would be better if I only knew what I was doing. I just need to determine OD of the rainbow profi mids to see if they would fit in vents.

    Anyways this post has been a great read. Subscribed.
    95-96mm is the max diameter of any speaker that will fit in the spot where the dash vents go. I've seen the stuff about the holygrail screen mounting option and it's cool that it's gone so far. I haven't checked in on that ina few months. I'm pretty happy with my current screen mount, I just need to tweak it a bit and then I'll be really happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by bartosz View Post
    I went to northland future shop to get it all intalled and waited for fours hours after I came back and the subs were not working the guys told me that the amp is bad, but its all new stuff. I got from my brother.
    they said they are going to try fixing it tomorrow. but what could they have done wrong please help me out. its urgent. the amp was level to max and the input from subs was minimal. did they burned someting. they also connected some cables to the stock bose sub. please help me out tonight.

    sO I went to future shop second time and it still doesnt work I scheduled for tuesday they are goin to look at it. everything works but the sub just plays minimal.
    what could the solution
    where should they wire the amp and subs ?
    my email [email protected]
    Are you asking this because you have a mazda6?

    There could be many things wrongs. If it's a mazda6,

    taping off the factory bose sub wiring for signal should not require a line output converter. You can just wire RCA ends onto the signal wires. Hopefully the shop knows what they are doing.

  2. #132
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    Are you saying max cutout diameter? I took my vent out and it measures about 121 or 3.75" so I was going to go with a DYNAUDIO ESOTEC SYSTEM 362 as the mids have a 3.76" OD and 96mm cutout diameter.

    1 Max. 121
    2 3 holes 4 on 110.9
    3 Mounting hole 96 (add cut-outs
    for terminals)

    I was going to do a passive set up though as I do not understand how to configure a active setup. I was looking at getting ALPINE RUX-C701 + PXA-H701 so that I could eventually go to an active setup. You think it is smart of me to just eliminate the stock HU? I need some reasurance.
    What are all those wires on that buss bar in your trunk mounted to the back seats?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  3. #133
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    I was afraid of that. I think you did your math wrong somewhere or you are reading the dimensions wrong. The conversion of inches to mm is 1inch=25.4mm. So, 3.77" = 95.7mm. The dynaudio MD142 has a cutout hole of 96mm, BUT the outer diameter is 121mm. So unless the MD142 can be cut or ground down, it's not going to fit into the stock vent unless you plan on having it stick out and nothing the screw into. It's about the same size as a 4" speaker.

    Only 3" drivers fit in the vents or anything that has an OD <96mm.

    As far as setting up active systems, vs using the passive crossovers, it will sound better IF you can tune it properly. Passive systems are ok, but they are generic and not designed with a particular car in mind. The only problem with active systems is more amplifier channels are needed, and the if you are new to tuning it can be overwhelming at first, but it's not that hard. If you need help I can point you to some tuning tutorials and some good forums.

    The Buss bars or terminal blocks are wired to the computer. Not in any particular order:

    -12V constant
    -12V switched
    -Ground
    -12V from the PSU used for switching relays and amps on and off, and DVD player power, and Harddrive power

    -5V from PSU used for DVD player and Harddrive power
    -Ground
    -Power switch for the computer
    -Power switch for the computer

    Well, if you go with the Alpine H701 and controller, you really won't need to eliminate the stock Headunit. You can always have it as a backup or extra source. Use the digital input on the H701 for the computer, and use the Analog input to the H701 for the stock headunit. You can just add some RCA cords to where the BOSE amp is/was and plug it into the H701. I had mine setup that way for while.

  4. #134
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    You were right I messed up, my math wasnt wrong I just overlooked that it came out to 4.77 not 3.77 (dislexia). But Ive consulted a dealer and looking at the manual I can see that I can cut the flange off leaving the speaker at 96mm so it will work.
    So I would like to go to an active setup, but I will wait on that. I am going to wait on the H701 to see if anything new comes out, but do you think that If I get some higher end amps, such as audison LRX 6.9 or a 4.1, that I can use the stock HU or will will it sound like crap. I know I will hate the fact that I have no control over any settings.
    I just do not have a carPC built to go HU'less yet as I need to do some more research. This is all knew to me.

  5. #135
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
    You were right I messed up, my math wasnt wrong I just overlooked that it came out to 4.77 not 3.77 (dislexia). But Ive consulted a dealer and looking at the manual I can see that I can cut the flange off leaving the speaker at 96mm so it will work.
    So I would like to go to an active setup, but I will wait on that. I am going to wait on the H701 to see if anything new comes out, but do you think that If I get some higher end amps, such as audison LRX 6.9 or a 4.1, that I can use the stock HU or will will it sound like crap. I know I will hate the fact that I have no control over any settings.
    I just do not have a carPC built to go HU'less yet as I need to do some more research. This is all knew to me.
    The stock headunit in the mazda really isn't all that bad. If you use the front channels before the Bose amp, the freq response is pretty flat and it's a 2V output which is about the same as a good soundcard. The H701 analog input is somewhat noisy in regards to hiss. Either way the Audison's are nice amps so nothing wrong there.

    BTW, I don't know if you are in the market but check this out:

    http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26023

  6. #136
    Tainted Love Cris's Avatar
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    Any updates Durwood? How's the audio tuning comming along?

    I have to say...after reading this thread I really want to do this...if it's all ok, I'll get the exact same card in a couple of days. How are you dealing with the low voltage output of the Audiotrack?


    Unfortunatly, I think I'll have to update myu mobo as well...I only have an Epia M10k... ....

  7. #137
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Sorry I missed your questions Cris. Yes you will need to upgrade your mobo. Low voltage output is not an issue from the soundcard straight to the amps.

    I'm stuck in a world of transition ATM. Lots of new ideas are swimming in my head and have several test projects going on in the home before I transition it to the car.

    1) amps have been replaced (I wanted/needed more power for better dynamics).

    2) Speaker overhaul in the works-everything. Going for a center array of 2" drivers with new tweeters and 10" midbass drivers.

    3) New/experimental processing techiniques (ambiosonics/ambiophonics)

    4) Oh and the new low power AMD64 carpc will be going in too.

    Then to really throw a monkey wrench in, I might be trading in my car this summer and I will have to redo it all in the new car.

    Sneak peak-This is NOT a final product. Since it's experimental I didn't waste too much time making it look pretty. Tweeters are going in the center of it.



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    mazdaspeed 6 question

    Hi hi Durwood, very nice install. Quick question for ya if you don't mind. I have a mazdaspeed 6 and the sound from the trunk isnt getting into the cab of the vehicle like it should. The speed6 seats don't "fold down" like my gfs mazda 6. What would you recommend as a pass through for the sound from trunk to cab?



  9. #139
    Low Bitrate sedtc's Avatar
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    what's good, kind sir, any updates? how are your ambisonics experiments coming? who makes those 2" drivers and where will you be putting the 10" mid bass drivers. the time has come to take my install to the next level and i've been picking the brains of the folks with installs that are in the same vein as my own.

    i am throwing around the ideas of a dual core cpu for the audio processing and putting the os on a cf/ssd. do you think that either of these changes would adversely effect the overall goal of using the pc as the source unit and audio processor? aside from the audio processing, what are some of the other functions that your carpc serves?

    sorry for the barrage of questions but you always seem open to an exchange of info on the subject. thanks in advance for the consideration.

  10. #140
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaJayHill View Post
    Hi hi Durwood, very nice install. Quick question for ya if you don't mind. I have a mazdaspeed 6 and the sound from the trunk isnt getting into the cab of the vehicle like it should. The speed6 seats don't "fold down" like my gfs mazda 6. What would you recommend as a pass through for the sound from trunk to cab?
    Sorry I haven't updated this in quite some time and haven't checked it either.

    Technically they do fold down, however your best bet is to remove the blose IB sub to give you an opening. Try building a box that fires towards the opening. The best way would be to find a way to essentially seal the front of the sub to the rear opening so the rear shelf becomes a baffle continuation for the subwoofer, but still have it in a box (not IB). I will be doing this myself sometime during this winter/spring but requires moving many things around to make it all fit nicely with minimal impact to trunk space loss.


    Quote Originally Posted by sedtc View Post
    what's good, kind sir, any updates? how are your ambisonics experiments coming? who makes those 2" drivers and where will you be putting the 10" mid bass drivers. the time has come to take my install to the next level and i've been picking the brains of the folks with installs that are in the same vein as my own.
    Original 2" drivers were Tang Band W2-852 available at parts express or ebay. I built a secondary soundbar that is now using some ebay generic specials. I have installed some tweeters but there are some issues that are less than ideal and I am thinking of ways to correct it but due to space limitations there are no good solutions, only medicore for now.

    The ambiophonics (not to be confused with ambisonics) experiments are going well. There is some interesting developments in it a few months back that might help it gain popularity due to some folks in the electro-music world plus on-going research and development.

    The 10" tangband subwoofers (great for midbass-not so much for subwoofer use) are located below the armrests in beefy enclosures. I removed or unattached the lower portion of the door interior to make space for them. I ran out of time to make them "look pretty" so they are quite ugly right now but serve their purpose. I have not posted pictures of these or any other developments lately. Perhaps I will.

    i am throwing around the ideas of a dual core cpu for the audio processing and putting the os on a cf/ssd. do you think that either of these changes would adversely effect the overall goal of using the pc as the source unit and audio processor? aside from the audio processing, what are some of the other functions that your carpc serves?
    I do not see any issues with doing that. Infact, brutefir for example can be ran off a USB memory stick. I am sure there are people running windows off CF drives. My carpc serves three basic functions, and not much else. Music server, audio processor, navigation...I guess an occasional video or DVD too when someone asks. I use a full size hardriver, non-optimized windows XP and it comes out of hibernation in 15secs usually by the time I back out of my driveway with the new AMD PC.

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