@ Markr: It's not that good, but it's difficult to say it's because of the screen resolution or the converter.
the default factory screen is quite small at 5.8", and something like 640x468 res......so not exactly dead-standard, but close enough. Text was not crisp at all, although images were nice and bright.....so, if you're using ot for video with minimal text, you'd be ok....
Very long time no post.
Well, no excuses, life/work got in the way, had an extremely busy professional life the past year.
Anyway, lot's of happenings/changes etc.
1) The Apple MacMini, although being a very nice little unit, compact et al, still slow booting XP/posting with EFI. To counter that, I am replacing it with my Commell LS-372, running a 1.8gig Core 2 Duo cpu, 2gigs of ram, Atheros WiFi, and last, but not least, I replaced the 7200rpm Seagate Momentus 2.5" drive with a new 60Gig OCZ Vertex.
Boot-times with an nLite'd XP SP3 setup improved from +/- 25seconds (from power-on to Desktop) on the Momentus to 21seconds with the same nLite'd setup on the SSD.
Compare this with the around 40-45sec with the MacMini, with 2gig CPU, same ram, and same Momentus
Even with CentraFuse set as the system-shell, to go from pushing on button to CF Desktop, takes 40seconds - not bad at all. That includes loading Plugins etc.
Much faster now, and even a smaller footprint than the MacMini. These Commell boards rock, but it must be the LS-372 with newer 965GME chipset - the older LV-677 with 945GM chipset is a fair bit slower to go past POST screen.
2) Received my new TPMS integrated pcb setup from Alok (or Lok on Mp3Car) and trained sensors to this new unit. All good.
3) Installed new CF 2.1 build whatever, and got everything up and running nicely - one small problem with my Nokia phone, not pairing with the Audio gateway. My Wife's work fine, so some small issue to resolve.
4) Got my ELM-327 OBD-II dongle to interface with CentraFuse - wish I could use either my very expensive AutoEnginuity-, or even more expensive Mongoose FEPS interface with CF - ah well, probably sometime in the future - for now, I can read all the most important parameters in CF anyway.
5) Last but not least, tonight tested my new NEC NL8060BC21-03 LCD transflective 8.4" LCD - beautiful Wow, now I believe what Thermoptic meant in his thread somewhere in the LCD-section about the clarity/quality of these panels with direct light shining on them.
I need to do a bezel for this panel, and need to mount the ALR-1400 Digital View controller board, as well as the 84PW041 inverter.
Looking so good, I will finally finalize this project - jeesh, nice to have a break, and come back all charged-up and ready to go.
I will do some photos sometime late into the weekend, and post them up.
fantastic to hear from you again mr beanphillip.
I followed your thread from the start and have played with the screen in a baxr6t a bit with CF and suits perfect for what i need.
I will eventually either get bigger screen or do something with it this year.
Looking forward to the pics.
@ Matt971:Thanx for the feedback, and looking forward to your progress!! Keep us posted...
Made some progress on the LCD setup.
As some of you know, I mentioned earlier that I was going the same route as Thermoptic with his NEC 8.4" Transflective LCD.
It is a very good solution, both the fact that it is transflective, and 8.4" at that, makes for a better fit to my (very difficult to mod) Ford F6 Tornado bezel.
Well, after a few hiccups, like the incorrect (5V 84PW041) inverter, I finally received the 12V 84PW031 unit, which means I can now power the inverter, backlight controls, and brightness, directly off the ALR-1400 controller board.
It makes for a very neat, tidy setup, suitable to my build-requirements.
With the NEC NL8060BC21-02 being an open frame LCD, without any case, I had to do something custom with aluminium, which also means it would be a sure way of mounting it onto the bezel.
Here is the ALR-1400 controller mounted in the custom housing, immediately behind the TFT panel.
Here is the new 84PW031 12 inverter:
And here the LCD button controller electronics (for testing purposes)
Here you can see all the electronics as they sit snugly behind the TFT
and the housing on an angle, giving you an idea of the dimensions
Here I have the angled shot from the front
and then, two shots from front-on - please take note that you will see some reflection, as I have left the protective plastic cover on the LCD for now, until I am finished with the bezel - hence a slight reflection from the camera flash......in case you wondered....
and lastly, here two shots of the LCD connected to the carputer, and sitting in Desktop environment:
and without flash
For the moment though, please ignore the rough state of the fascia bezel, I need to start working on that next, so I can get this into the UTE.
Good progress though, both carputer, with all software, casing, etc sorted, same with the LCD - the LCD secures very well onto the fascia, with decent 3mm stainless steel screws/nuts, so it sits very firm and secure.
Let me know what you think so far - please look back a few pages to have a looky at the original 10" LCD attempt, which was abandoned due to reflection issues et al.
Thanx Rd, appreciated
Yeah, these things are monsters - mine has about 500hp on the wheels, or 600 at the engine - with only upping the boost, there are a few around doing 550hp+ on the wheels - and then again, going forged H-beam rods, and a few extras, guys are running 650+ HP at the wheels....
Ouch. Mine's a handfull as it is, and one has to be careful on a dampy rd, even at 80-90mph she'll loose traction when planting the right foot - torque is huge....on dry tarmac, she'll let rip at 70mph, firing up the rears if you plant it.
Just hoping to get the carputer finalized soon now, as the damn fascia/bezel is made out of PPE, and extremely difficult to get anything to bond with it....
KC Welder Pro plastic welding system from Urethane Supply. After a little practice, I can weld pretty acceptably with it, and it appears that the finished product will work well. The system welds both PE and PP very nicely. If you go this route, get a powerful fan; the fumes can be toxic.
You can usually buy raw sheet material from plastics suppliers. All we need is their scraps, and sometimes they can be had pretty reasonably.
Painting plastics is a whole separate issue. I've used Krylon Fusion successfully.
Thanx Mate, I will look into the plastic welding option, the only one open for me.....to be honest, I have considered it after the last attempt with the 10" endeavour, so I should go for it - problem is to find PPE here in Land Down Under......I picked up a nice sheet of 2mm thick ABS, 1.6x2.5m, but need the PPE.
So, let the search begin.....
I will most likely go the Krylon Fusion mode too Seems it sticks to anything plastic.....
Although I wouldn't try to make a finished product with it, a high-power soldering gun can give you an approximation of the weld, at least for testing.
I've also tried hot air welding, but found it a tough go. That tool is going to decorate a shelf from now on; I don't think I'm likely to bother with it again.
There are also ultrasonic tools, but I think they're beyond my price range for the limited use I have. The US$65 for the KC Welder Pro wasn't bad, and it does the job well. They also have a lower-power non-"Pro" model, but I never have to wait for the Pro system to get back to temperature, so I think the few extra bucks was worth it. I've used it on some non-carPC projects, too, including repairing a water tank.
The Urethane Supply website is loaded with information, and may be a good resource on what welds to PPE. If you can make a call on a webphone, they're very helpful and knowledgeable.