www.asllogistics.com.au for arount $700
Great thread you have here, this is the reason i am setting up a CarPC in my territory. I was wondering how much it cost you for a new screen for your icc when it arrived in bad nick. Because i have just got one and the screen has a slight scratch on it which stands out when the screen is black. I am after just the screen but have been quoted some pretty high prices.
Thanks in advance
I will do some alterations on the weekend, and I'm also trying to get hold of Nexson to do the fascia for me
Will feedback hopefully after the weekend...
Ok, a small update.
Wile the mac-mini is really a nice, compact little box, it has downfalls - the major one is exceptionally slow boot-time. Nothing we can do about it, other than getting rid of it.
Of course, as some of you will realize, I still have the Commell LS-373 hanging around here, and it is in the process of being converted into a very, very nice, passive heatpipe-cooled device - I will post pics of that soon.
What we have here though is another little toy of mine.
Case: Minibox M350 mini-itx
Motherboard: Zotac Mini-WiFi mini-itx 9300
CPU: E7500 2.93Ghz Intel Core-2 Duo
Ram: 4 Gb (2x2Gb) slimline RAM.
Harddrive: Intel X-25M G2 80GB
PSU: 150W Pico PSU (controlled by Carnetix P2140 shutdown controller)
GPS: Sparkfun GPS-09133 10Hz update capable
Misc: Alok TPMS unit
Basically, the Minibox M350 is a very compact little box, with enough space to (barely) fit the motherboard. With all these extra little devices, well, frankly, it's a challenge.....
The M350 has a few nice surprises in store though, like 2 little internal brackets to secure 2x SSD/harddrives, or single drive and a couple of (useless) 40mm fans.
Well, I have mounted the Intel SSD to the one, and the Sparkfun GPS to the other. Please note, should you want to go down the Sparkfun GPS route, you need to have (or know someone with) soldering skills. You will also need a USB->TTL logic level converter, and then, to retain ephemeris data (very quick start-ups), a external battery.
I use a very good quality Tadiran 3.7V battery, it should last anything from 5-10 years (or longer)
Herewith a few pictures to show how to fit a few peripheral devices to the case, and minimize on all those pesky little boxes all over the place (or car).
and another angle, showing SSD and GPS mounted to the 2 internal brackets.....I've used decent double-sided tape to secure the GPS components, and cable-ties just for added security - unfortunately the only way to secure these devices, as there are no mounting holes in the PCB's.
And here a few shots showing how I mounted Alok's TPMS receiver - please note I've replaced the stockie antenna with something a little better, and it works fine within the passenger cabin. I have also desoldered the orginal TPMS USB socket, and soldered a cable, which connects via to a default header-block to one of the internal USB connectors.
This is the same method I used for the USB->TTL converter that connects to the GPS board. Nice, and compact, clean...
Sharp eyes will also pick out the very small BlueTooth Dongle, plugged into one of the front USB ports, and it works very well with CF30 - no issues with my E51 Nokia.
Further to this, I have also mounted the GPS antenna next to the TMPS unit - right in the middle of the frontpanel. Please note it can sit like this, as the M350 will be installed vertically in my UTE - against the rear bulkhead. This way, the GPS antenna will be in the correct orientation.
I have drilled a small hole just above the antenna to feed the SMA connector through the case and connect it to the GPS board.
NONE OF THIS is visible once the default M350 plastic bezel is attached the standard way Very nice, and compact!
and a last one:
Now, all we need is either Alok or Wolfgang to redo the TPMS plugin for CF30 :flowers:
I will be receiving my Carnetix 4-port Hub from Mp3Car tomorrow, but this will most like;ly be used with the Commell LS-373 in the near future.
Hope this is of some help to someone.
Ok, finally fitted the new Zotac-based setup to the UTE, and working very well - the new CF30 is definately my cup of tea, and I need now is the TPMS plugin - the guys are working on it, so it should be ready pretty soon.
Anyway, with that said, I'm still using the old little 7" Xenarc 700TSV - while it serves it's purpose, and only just so, due to glare/bad daylight readability, it is time to fit my much nicer 8.4" NEC transflective panel.
Please browse a few pages back to see how I constructed a fully functional TFT monitor from bits and pieces purchased off online stores. Even so, this screen still works out pretty much $550+ USD, but, well worth it - it's the right size for me, at 8.4" and standard ratio (4:3), and of very good industrial quality.
Well, herewith a few pics to show what I did during the last 2 days - progress is slow, but I'm expecting to have this done in the next few weeks, as I can hardly wait to get this in the UTE.
With the Zotac capable (and CF30 supporting multiple displays), I will retain the Xenarc to display my OBD-II data via embedded CF-application on it, while the NEC will be my main CF display, housed in the fascia.
So, here we go:
Showing the Ford ICC fascia, recently cut to proper size to make way for the 8.4" LCD:
And one showing the rear:
A few pics showing me making the framework from balsa wood - please note that the LCD will be well recessed, as I like it this way, and will further prevent direct sunlight from hitting it:
and another angle:
Pardon all the pics, but this will give my fellow Ford BA/BF/Territory mates an idea what to expect should they wish to do something similar.
A couple shots from the rear:
and herewith 2 pics showing the LCD fitted - please note these shots are in macro-mode, with the camera barely 30cm away, and flash on - it's a Fujifilm 5500, so pretty strong flash - and the screen handles it very well You can see the bright area in the upper left corner of the fascia to form an idea of how strong the flash is, but, no effect on the LCD - this is how we want it!
I will be doing more work on this over the next few weeks - I got my hands on some Fleece, resin and hardener, and a few cans of undercoat to prep.
Before you guys ask about why fleece/balsa/et al, this fascia is made from PPO/PPE, which doesn't handle any other method than superglue and balsa wood - I've studied this case, and this is the best (and possibly only) solution.
I will possibly get Nexson's input too, as he's the resident Mp3Car Guru where it comes to this sort of fabrication, and might be very helpful with info/tips/tricks.
Will keep you guys posted.
edit: As an added bonus, I will use the orginal buttons that controlled the Ford Radio/CD-player to now do the LCD functions, like adjustments, power, etc....I needed 8, but these 6 will do the main functions, I can leave brightness control away, as I tend to set it once, and never touch it again.
There is a little PCB with buttons mounted proper, I will connect this to the OSD control board connected to the Digitalview ALR-1400 controller Nice......I like.
For my Aussie mates, I have made a custom aluminium frame (see few posts back) for the NEC LCD panel, and mounted it on these 4 holes depicted below - I know a lot of guys take the easy way out when mounting LCDs, but I cannot stand a rattly, vibrating, and worse, something that dislodges itself after a few couple k's.
So, it has to be very reliable - and in my case, the mounting method actually enhances/strengthens the overall fascia bezel, while being very clean at the back.
If you want more detailed pics of the frame/mounting brackets of the LCD, I will post them.
awesome work beanie. Keep the pics coming.
Never let the truth get in the way of a good story
Will do Mate, thanx
Will post some more pictures of the actual aluminium LCD- and mounting frames on the weekend once I unbolt it to start with the fleece/resin process on the balsa wood.
Should come out good
Even though this appears to be a small, insignificant update, a lot of work went into this. I started with prepping the bezel, laying a few layers of primer after sealing/sanding the balsawood with some fiberglass resin.
Well, all went well, and things progressed rapidly, until shot a few more layers of primer. At a point I was pretty ready to do a couple layers clear to see where we are at, as the primer looked pretty decent.
Well, decided to fill a few of the cavities at the back in with some resin, just to lend support and improve overall rigidity of the top part of the frame, and, damn, added to much hardener - it got so hot it caused the paint on the front to bubble.
Damn, had to strip it all down to the bare plastic, 2 days worth down the drain.
&$#@* - So, I had to start all over again, and fortunately, I took the "easy" way out and used acetone to strip it down to bare plastic, even removed the factory paint.
So, I approached things a little differently, and herewith the progress (again). I will chat to a bloke nextdoor from my Office on Monday, and ask him to put some decent primer on, something made for plastics.
I will go from there then.
So, hopefully next weekend I will be in a position to shoot some color
Let me know what you all think - this is very rough still, and need a few hours more before primer will go on.