How to work:
- find a place for your screen.
- measure the area around the screen twice!!!
- decide how you want your screen to move.
- draw the hole area including the area needed for the moving screen.
- leave margen so you can adjust the positions.
How the screen moves:
We can break this down in two parts:
- the engine powers a drive-belt, which rotates an axle. On that axle there are two aluminium L-brackets
- the L brackets control the switches.
- The movement of the second axle is transported via a belt to the top axle.
- The top axle rotates the screen
- magnets keep the screen in the closed or opened position.
- 2 switches
- 1 modified sailboat-servo
- 1 relays
On the relays you connect the + and – of a 5 volt line (i used m2)
The relays has 2 outs on each connection!
To the servo 4 wires will go from the serve.
In the two + wires that go to the servo there is a switch.
When the switch is pressed, the connection is broken and the servo stops moving.
The relays is controlled by the + of the ignition key, but that can be every other switchable +.
on the picture at the buttom the switches (black) with the magnets
close-up of the relays and servo (tape is to reduce the force of the magnet, not to hold it in place)
I would like to know what went in the manufacturing of the mechanism, and also how it's all put together....
updated mecanical part, hope it answerd your question
moved the cpc to the inside of the car, thought that would solve the cold weather problem i had. But it didn't.
old instal under the seat:
the old tray in the car:
A new mobo was order, the dg45fc (intel) testing and install in progress.
I'm thinking of making smthng like this in my volvo 960, could you send me a .cad file?
Originally Posted by rijk
i can, but the drawing was made for the center consol of the 440, so i don't know if its any help to your project.
NP, it's easier to make some adjustments than start from the scratch =]
I'll PM you my email =]
the tray is in the car:
connecting up the mobo to the car:
cover to protect the cpu fan and m4. black bit is speakercloth, so cooling is not reduced.
The mobo hangs upside down under the seat.
The first place of the mobo with the first casing (drilled), second casing was the closed one, but for the rest pretty mutch the same as this one. The closed version was to reduces the amount of airflow over the mobo. Can you imagin a mobo that gets to cold:
It was vented by the air that was sucked in by the interieur fan (blower)
Originally Posted by HiJackZX1
Pic 1) is the normal and the modify top of the air-inlet. You can see 4 bolts.
Pic 2) is the backside of the air-inlet with the mobo attached (i was testing the space for the metal bar (black with the grove in it)
Pic 3) the old air-intake. On the bottom you can just see the fan (blower)
Pic 4) the mobo in the car bolted to the air-intake (it had a specific order in witch bolt / screw to tighten up) Putting the mobo in its place took about 30 minutes (some of the nuts where very difficult to reach.
Pic 5) The water draining hole with the wiring
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1...ake1oq9.th.jpg http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7...ake2wj4.th.jpg http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5...ake3dy1.th.jpg http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/1...ake4yg4.th.jpg http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/1...holenc4.th.jpg
On top of this sites the plastic cover, so all the air comes from the right side:
Cpc was mounted under the black cover on the left
close up cpc (changed the case to a closed type aluminium)
The air-intake is lifted up about 3 cm. And there are two holes that drain the water away. Threw one of the holes i thread the wiring.
The temp of the mobo is about the same as the outside air-temp. If i lived in a hotter country, or the global warming picks up this is still the space i think is the best for the mobo.
I’ll post this too in the worklog, i got a feeling Red’s gone delete this post.